2005 Legacy GT Wagon

Not even sure what I'm asking. Son is inheriting the wife's 2011 Legacy soon. Then we are getting her a 2019 Forester.

 

 

I've always wanted an 2005 GT wagon manual, even drove one on an overnight test drive in 2005, but it was for the wife and she preferred the Jetta TDI. Had I known then it would be a one year rare item I would have bought it.

 

 

 

So now I have an opportunity to actually buy one but am I being an idiot looking at 13 year old turbo for my daily driver?

 

 

Is it realistic to get one and have it be reliable?

 

 

Wife and I both used to drive 60's Mustang convertible as daily drivers, but had more time and patience back then.

I miss mine every day. 2005 LGT manual, in white. Rare as shit, in hindsight. Sold it over three years ago.

 

But I don't miss fearing the inevitability of a blown motor or $4k rebuild I couldn't afford. I sold it before I had to find out.

I miss mine every day. 2005 LGT manual, in white. Rare as shit, in hindsight. Sold it over three years ago.

 

But I don't miss fearing the inevitability of a blown motor or $4k rebuild I couldn't afford. I sold it before I had to find out.

 

 

Thing is, its time for me to replace the Flex- so i can get something for 30-40K yea it's new, but has a payment. Or I can get an GT wagon and have money if something major happens.

 

 

I've just started my research, are the 05 turbo engines unreliable as a whole?

 

 

What would you all pay for a stock clean manual wagon with 90k on it?

Since you're still thinking about this car 13 YEARS after the test drive, you should get one.

 

Out-of-the-box, they are a pretty speedy wagon. With mods, they can be rail-riding rocket ships hauling stuff as well as ass.

 

LGTs don't have a lot of gizmos, so dealer service expertise isn't necessary. Which is a good thing since most dealers, like mine, have more interest in selling new Subarus than in supporting my current one. The LGT weaknesses (not many) are well documented here on the forum and can be investigated preventatively.

 

My LGT has been 100% reliable since '06; a summer hot rod, winter snow machine. I plan to be buried in her.

2005 are 14 years old and the early production vehicle are going to be 15 years in a couple months. They aren't a good investment, but you buy a car like and put money into them because you love the car.

 

In addition to the regular EJ255 engine maladies, the 4th Gen also suffer from oil issues and turbo failures.

 

At this point in time, personally I would only buy a 05-09 GT with a blown motor and repair it myself. When I bought my Outback, I was definitely tempted to buy a running OBXT or one with a blown motor. Also you may want to look into a 2009 OBXT and lowering that. It would at least buy you a vehicle that is 4 years newer and a last year of the generation vs the 1st year generation model. Also you may want to consider a 5th Gen GT if you are not set on a wagon. They are newer. Their are something I like on the 5th Gen over the 4th gen and something I like on the 4th gen over the 5th Gen.

Thanks- I'm not trying to be lazy and not research, but you know it's a rabbit hole.

 

 

I found a one owner under 100k stock manual wagon, so I need to make a decision quickly.

 

 

I've started combing through the 4th gen threads, but it's a lot to take in and sometimes you're reading things in the wrong order. As in what is being discussed doesn't click until later when you read something else.

Thanks- I'm not trying to be lazy and not research, but you know it's a rabbit hole.

 

 

I found a one owner under 100k stock manual wagon, so I need to make a decision quickly.

 

 

I've started combing through the 4th gen threads, but it's a lot to take in and sometimes you're reading things in the wrong order. As in what is being discussed doesn't click until later when you read something else.

 

 

 

I sold my 15 WRX because I regretted selling my 2002 WRX wagon and jumped on my 2005 GT Limited Manual Wagon as soon as I found one. Needed somewhat of a family car too so another Rex wagon wasn’t cutting it size wise (3 kids n a dog). Worth it to me to put some $ into somthn you like even if it is 15yrs old instead of settling on somthn just cuz it’s newer. Especially when you can find em for $3-7k. Even if you put some $ into it at least you don’t have a payment or have a very small payment

 

Any car you get yourself into. If you’re a car guy and love cars...

THEYRE ALL RABBIT HOLES!! Hahaha

When done correctly the car is reliable. I have over 114,000 trouble free miles on my ej257 that I installed back on May 20 2012.

 

Read my click here link in my sig, it's become a role model for how to do it right the first time.

I bought the car new late June 2004. I'm well into paying for it the third time. It runs great, its all the other small things, but once you fix them, it becomes a fun DD.

I am with Max on this one. My 2005 has been reliable (knocking on the wood) with simple attention to maintaince items such as checking engine oil level and using proper oil filters and engine air filters. Really that was it this far. I am in 200+K club now on original block (head gaskets were done at 173K), third timing belt and third clutch I put on couple of months back. Stage2 since ~70K, so about 150K miles modded?

 

 

 

Don't f^%k them and they won't f^%k you. Very enjoyable as DDs. If you move with any mods to Stage 1 or Stage 2 it's a world of fun. I feel that Stage2 is a sweet spot, still stock reliability but much more power and responsiveness. Most hardware for mods can be had real cheap used here on forum, and the DIY threads are very helpful here now.

 

 

I am looking at mine as a fun/project car that I still DD. Don't plan on selling it ever.

I've had mine for a little over a year now. Aside from typical 13 year old car stuff, it's been pretty solid. I'm only a little over 150k kms (so around 90k miles) and nothing "major" has broken. Had to replace the clutch (no shock there) and my rad cracked this week. Replacing brake calipers in the next week or so. Aside from the rad (a somewhat common problem with the plastic cracking), which was original, everything has been a wear item.

I agree with the "buy one with a blown motor" but otherwise wellboptioned. Get a n iag shortblick and a nice 250awhp motor. Then treat gently and it will last longer.

 

Or build a 350awhp hot rod and drive it like you stole it. You'll rebuild a bit more often, but nothing beats a sleeper wagon that can wipe the track with most cars.

 

Don't wait. Go find a wagon

Original owner here, in May it will have been 14 years, yeah, I have a wimpy AT Lol, mine has been very reliable too, (knock wood) 128k miles STG1 for 60k, well maintained and taken care of, I don't beat the car but I'm getting ready for a JmP custom VF40, Catted DP and tune, I can't see getting rid of mine, ever.

Buy the car you won't regret it

I agree with boxkita. The manual wagons are getting harder to come by. Your options are endless. By luck I was able to find one last year. I paid market price because I really wanted one but it was also close to 200k mi when I purchased it. It looks like you live in MD. There are a lot of subie places there to help you, along with this forum. This is where I've pretty much learned everything besides the service manual and from experience.

I feel that Stage2 is a sweet spot, still stock reliability but much more power and responsiveness. Most hardware for mods can be had real cheap used here on forum, and the DIY threads are very helpful here now.

 

I'll disagree here. The sweet spot is stage 2 but with VF52. Most would say "stage 3", but there isn't a single definition.

 

VF40/VF46 is simply garbage and the fall off at the top end is fun crushing.

I'll disagree here. The sweet spot is stage 2 but with VF52. Most would say "stage 3", but there isn't a single definition.

 

VF40/VF46 is simply garbage and the fall off at the top end is fun crushing.

 

"Stage 2+" with a VF-52 is a really good place to be. One day I'll bump to bigger injectors, but I'm only maxing out the stock on occasion. Lots of go, but not too much where I might get myself into trouble. So much fun.

Yup, actually staying with stock fueling even if leaving some power on the table is a good reliability move IMO. AFAIK there are no quality side feeds larger than stock. Conversion to top feeds is rather involved and opens potential pandora box of issues.

Well one thing I forgot to consider was insurance. After talking to my agent, it just isn't worth picking one of these up.

Stated value, otherwise the book values do not reflect market values.

Well one thing I forgot to consider was insurance. After talking to my agent, it just isn't worth picking one of these up.

 

While I get it, "just isn't worth picking one of these up" is really a subjective decision.

 

It was worth it for me, I'll pay a little more for the smile on my face every time I climb into the driver's seat. But I have made the decision to allocate part of my "budget" to that area. It's not for everyone.

 

I really love driving a good looking manual wagon with gumption... I haven't really seen another one built since 2005 for the USDM. So I'll drive mine for as long as I possibly can.

While I get it, "just isn't worth picking one of these up" is really a subjective decision.

 

It was worth it for me, I'll pay a little more for the smile on my face every time I climb into the driver's seat. But I have made the decision to allocate part of my "budget" to that area. It's not for everyone.

 

I really love driving a good looking manual wagon with gumption... I haven't really seen another one built since 2005 for the USDM. So I'll drive mine for as long as I possibly can.

 

 

 

 

Well I don't think you're following it.

 

 

 

It's not about paying more it's about getting coverage period. Every insurance company I looked at, a stated value policy limits the number of miles per year you can put on a vehicle- way less than I would as a daily driver.

Well I don't think you're following it.

 

 

 

It's not about paying more it's about getting coverage period. Every insurance company I looked at, a stated value policy limits the number of miles per year you can put on a vehicle- way less than I would as a daily driver.

 

You're right, I'm missing something then.

 

I have zero issue getting insurance coverage on my '05 with 196k miles. Does the coverage match the cost for me to replace on the open market with the seriously small number of '05 manual wagons left, nope. But that's a decision I made. One day I may talk to them about paying additional for some of the mods I have added, but maybe not. It's paid for, if it get wrecked to the point I can't repair it, then I'll be sad and move on to something else.

You're right, I'm missing something then.

 

I have zero issue getting insurance coverage on my '05 with 196k miles. Does the coverage match the cost for me to replace on the open market with the seriously small number of '05 manual wagons left, nope. But that's a decision I made. One day I may talk to them about paying additional for some of the mods I have added, but maybe not. It's paid for, if it get wrecked to the point I can't repair it, then I'll be sad and move on to something else.

 

 

Are you an original owner?

 

 

I'm not in a position to just loss 5k or more.

Are you an original owner?

 

 

I'm not in a position to just loss 5k or more.

 

In that case buying nearly 15 year old car, which can be expensive to repair (shortblock and associated parts can be in $5k range), is not really recommended, regardless of possible loss in an accident.

In that case buying nearly 15 year old car, which can be expensive to repair (shortblock and associated parts can be in $5k range), is not really recommended, regardless of possible loss in an accident.

 

 

Well not to be argumentative but that's not the same.

 

 

You can buy a 3.5 years old car that is out of warranty and end up needing an expensive repair. You will however be able to insure it for it's value.

Well not to be argumentative but that's not the same.

 

 

You can buy a 3.5 years old car that is out of warranty and end up needing an expensive repair. You will however be able to insure it for it's value.

 

Not the same, yes, managing different risks. However, the risk of a major failure on a 15 years old car is higher than on a newer car. Generally speaking, the risk of an accident/loss is the same.