Today, I did my own oil change for the first time in my life.

Here is write up after me doing oil change on my own for the first time in my life:

I thought I had everything prepared. I had oil filter, I had 116 set tool kit, I had Fumoto F-105 valve, I had wrenches, sockets, extenders, ramps, Oil catch pan, Torque wrench, crowfoot wrench, funnel, and most importantly 7 quarts of Pennzoil Full Synthetic Platinum 5W30.

First problem came up as soon as I started the job. The largest open wrench in that 116 set tool kit was 5/8" which was tiny bit smaller that 17mm that was needed. I had to run to the nearest hardware store to get a 17mm open wrench,

I used 17mm wrench to take off the OEM drain plug. but it was weird because after taking off the OEM plug, I couldn't find the washer. I thought it was stuck on the surface of the oil pan but it wasn't. So my next guess was that it fell into the oil catch pan, but when I emptied waste oil from catch pan with a funnel that has a filter mesh, there was no washer to be found.

Did anyone notice this too? or do you guys had washer on OEM plug?

So after I drained most of the oil, I proceeded to take off the oil filter and that is when I had most trouble with. I thought I could turn it with bare hands so I did not prepare a oil filter wrench. That was a huge mistake.

Firstly, my hands were all slippery from touching engine oil and secondly, the oem filter was stuck and it was more stubborn than I thought it would be.

So this time, I ran to the nearest autozone but ended up getting wrong tools for 3 times. I had to run back and forth 3 times just to get right wrench, and people at Autozone had been useless.

Anyways while taking off the old oil filter I noticed there was some kind of cable running through near where the filter is. It was really annoying because I almost ripped it off because my oil filter plier grabbed on the cable. I wonder what the cable is.

After I took off the old filter, I put some fresh oil on the gasket of the new filter so next time when I take it off, It would be easier. Plus I heard it makes better seal if I do so. Installing new filter was easy but had to use rubber gloves to tighten it since my hands were slippery.

Installing fumoto valve was also easy. I had prepared crowfoot wrench and a torque wrench for installing fumoto valve. I torqued it with 32lb/ft, fumoto says 18lb/ft but I say it's bullshi&. I know fumoto is made of brass which is somewhat softer than the metal but I think it will hold 32lb/ft just fine. and I don't want to see oil leak from not tightening enough. BTW, myth about the fumoto valves that the thread is too long and protrude into the oil pan is TRUE. It will stop from all of the oils draining. There is mod posted in this forum which involves cutting four slits that is about 3 threads deep on the tip of the thread. I did the mod before I took off the OEM plug(I actually borrowed tools from near auto repair shop because I don't have my own work bench). But after removing OEM plug and examining the actual thread depth of the oil pan, I concluded that 3 thread deep is not enough. If you want to have best possible drain, cut at least 4 threads deep. But I didnt bother to go back to the repair shop to cut some more, draining 100% of the oil is almsot impossible without special tool anyways. And Ive decided to just trust the oil filter.

After installing the valve I poured in 7 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 oil. However I was extremly confused after putting in the new oil because my dipstick was reading at low mark. I checked how much old oil I have drained and the amount of drained oil was about 6.3 quarts, and I know that dipstick was reading middle in between full mark and low mark before the oil change. So I poured in more oils than What I drained and the level on the dipstick goes down? My law of physcis had been put to test but Ive yet to find out why. Please if anyone have any insight on this weird situation, let me know.

First oil change was hard and I've encountered many errors and problems. But I kind of enjoyed it. Plus knowing that I've put in the best quality of engine oil makes me proud and happy. I learned a lot and I think it will be much easier the next time I do it.

On the side note, if you find my grammar to be terrible please excuse me, English is my second language.

After putting fresh oil in, I will usually let the engine run for a few minutes to circulate the new oil, and let some oil get into the filter since I don't pre-fill the filter. After shutting off the engine, I'll usually wait around 3-5 minutes and check the level.

Not sure about the 2015's, but the oil dipsticks on the 4th gens are a nightmare. It's thought that because of the way the dipstick enters the oil pan at an angle, one side of the dipstick can read much different than the other side of the dipstick, up to a 1/2qt difference from what I've seen. I usually just split the difference between the two sides of the dipstick to play it safe.

After looking at the parts diagram, it looks like the oil dipstick on the 4cyl 2015's might enter the oil pan at an angle as well. So I'd be curious to know the next time you check your oil level, if one side reads different than the other. Sometimes mine does read different by a lot, other times both sides are almost identical, it's so frustrating.

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=60249908&ukey_assembly=6030226&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=89998&ukey_driveline=53362&ukey_trimlevel=110354&modelYear=2015

As far as the crush washer goes, are you sure it wasn't stuck on the oil drain plug? If it's not stuck to the drain plug, I have no idea. The parts diagram does show a crush washer for the drain plug.

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2015&modelName=legacy25l-cvt-4wdlimited&ukey_assembly=6464407&ukey_category=54102&assembly=b15-031-01

After putting fresh oil in, I will usually let the engine run for a few minutes to circulate the new oil, and let some oil get into the filter since I don't pre-fill the filter. After shutting off the engine, I'll usually wait around 3-5 minutes and check the level.

 

Not sure about the 2015's, but the oil dipsticks on the 4th gens are a nightmare. It's thought that because of the way the dipstick enters the oil pan at an angle, one side of the dipstick can read much different than the other side of the dipstick, up to a 1/2qt difference from what I've seen. I usually just split the difference between the two sides of the dipstick to play it safe.

 

After looking at the parts diagram, it looks like the oil dipstick on the 4cyl 2015's might enter the oil pan at an angle as well. So I'd be curious to know the next time you check your oil level, if one side reads different than the other. Sometimes mine does read different by a lot, other times both sides are almost identical, it's so frustrating.

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=60249908&ukey_assembly=6030226&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=89998&ukey_driveline=53362&ukey_trimlevel=110354&modelYear=2015

 

As far as the crush washer goes, are you sure it wasn't stuck on the oil drain plug? If it's not stuck to the drain plug, I have no idea. The parts diagram does show a crush washer for the drain plug.

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2015&modelName=legacy25l-cvt-4wdlimited&ukey_assembly=6464407&ukey_category=54102&assembly=b15-031-01

Thank you for replying to my questions.

I've also heard things about Subaru dipsticks. In my case, two sides showed same level. but someone from another forum said that sometimes new synthetic oil is so thin and light in color that it's really hard to see because as soon as you pull the dipstick, the oil starts to drip downwards. So he says if I see oils on the tip of the dipstick(I think he meant the tip of the sides) it means the oil level is up to that point rather than the level where you can see the condensation. So Im guessing that's what's happening. Im going to check tomorrow morning one more time at different angles. He says if I look at from various angles, sometimes you can see the true level by looking at the reflections of the oil on the dipstick. I will try that because, I also saw some oils on the sides of the dipstick but I ignored it because I thought they were there because they got rubbed against the engine oil pouring pipe which would have thin coat of engine oil too.

And for the washer, I am not sure if this is the case, but OEM plug is painted in black and maybe the paint bonded the washer and the head together because I can see that the thread starts inside of the head which might be the washer. The head should be flat without the washer right? If so, what I am seeing is a washer that is stuck on the head of the bolt with black paint.

Congrats but all of that would of cost you $39.95 at the dealer. I no longer have time for this kinda stuff and your write up kinda reminded me of my 1st oil change.

I think i was a bit more prepared than you were however.

Good Job!

Congrats.. sounds like quite a job.. I used to change the oil, and do tire rotation on all my cars. The 2015 3.6 seemed to present a few new challenges, like how do you get the front end up in the air and remove those panels etc. Anyways.. I took it to my local dealer, oil change and tire rotation, out of there for less than 60 bucks...

Thanks for the post, now that I read that, I will stick with the dealer method.

an oil change should not be that hard but definitely for a first time, i can see it being head ach. next time you will be better prepared and it will be much more easy.

congradulations

im shocked the 3.6 take 7quarts... most engines are 5quarts

It's a good thing you're ready to stay with it.

The more you do stuff on your own, the more you learn about your car. Once you get the hang of it, it's such a short easy job, you'll laugh at your first attempt.

Keep changing!

Congrats but all of that would of cost you $39.95 at the dealer. I no longer have time for this kinda stuff and your write up kinda reminded me of my 1st oil change.

 

I think i was a bit more prepared than you were however.

 

Good Job!

$64.95 at my dealer

I don't use the dealer because by the time I get there and back, I will have lost over an hour and a half, if not more.

With the Fumoto, I can change oil, and rotate tires in under 40 minutes. Most of that time is letting the oil drain anyway. It has nothing to do with money for me, more for my time savings. I usually bang it out on a Saturday at like 7am. Eat breakfast with the kids by 8.

So I'd be curious to know the next time you check your oil level, if one side reads different than the other. Sometimes mine does read different by a lot, other times both sides are almost identical, it's so frustrating.

The dipstick on the 2.5 shows two different oil levels, but the same marks on the stick and you're suppose to take the measurement/reading from the lowest side, it's probably the same with the 3.6.

Keep a can of Brakleen handy to clean up oily messes on hands, etc. Also a box of nitrile surgical or mechanic gloves comes in very handy, just take them off and put a new set on.

Congrats!!!

I actually did the write-up on modifying the Fumoto valve to drain all (or most of) the oil. My car has an EJ motor, yours is an EZ, so the oil pans are probably different. I also cut only 3 threads because I didn't want to cut too much and jeopardize the integrity of the threads and to ensure I could get it tight without it stretching or failing. The intent of my write up was to indicate that the thread depth on the oil pan should be measured, and your Fumoto valve modified according to your specific car.

... the thread depth on the oil pan should be measured, and your Fumoto valve modified according to your specific car.

Exactly! That's what I did when I installed a Fumoto drain valve on my 2015 Legacy 2.5 (FB25 engine), and the threads on the valve (w/gasket in place) were so close to precisely the depth of threads in the oil pan boss that it wasn't worth making any modifications. In my case it was truly Plug-and-Play.

I torqued it with 32lb/ft, fumoto says 18lb/ft but I say it's bullshi&.

Not a good idea, IMO. That's an 80% overtorque. But done is done, so at this point I would just leave it.

Not a good idea, IMO. That's an 80% overtorque. But done is done, so at this point I would just leave it.

Even though it's 80% overtorque than what the Fumoto suggests, OEM plug is at around 30lb/ft anyways. And 18lb/ft felt so loose to me. It's barely making any friction.

Even though it's 80% overtorque than what the Fumoto suggests, OEM plug is at around 30lb/ft anyways. And 18lb/ft felt so loose to me. It's barely making any friction.

Turning something to 18lbs with a 15" long torque wrench should feel easy. Try turning it with your fingers.

This is my favorite oil filter wrench

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=379&division=1&category=9

http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/products/63600L.jpg

I change my own oil, but use a change pump. I bought on ebay, but I don't know if this is the exact one I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-Oil-Fluid-Liquid-Extractor-4-0L-Boat-Car-Auto-Pump-Oil-Change-Pump-Kit-/381436236230?hash=item58cf5f11c6:g:j9IAAOSwwbdWHHFm&vxp=mtr

Yes, it does leave a small amount of dirty oil in the pan, but then again so does any oil change. This is especially true when the oil change monkey at the dealer/lube shop is in a hurry and does not take the time to let it fully drain. When the pump starts sucking air I move the hose around a bit to get the most oil possible. I also have a waste container which has markings for quarts and based on that I get out about 98-99% of the old oil.

Using the pump means I don't have to get under car and with the up top filter I have no mess. Yes, I am lazy, but this method works fine. I have used the pump for several years with several different vehicles.

^^^Some guys will be horrified that you leave a teaspoon of oil behind, and will modify Fumoto valves to ensure such a catastrophe does not occur on their watch.

I'm not as worried. My Chev 6.5 diesel leaves about 20% of the oil behind every time in the oil cooler. Some such trucks have logged 500,000 to over a million miles on the engine.

The main thing is that there is enough lubricity and not too many particulates left behind. It's not that remaining oil somehow leaves a virus behind that multiplies!

This is my favorite oil filter wrench

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=379&division=1&category=9

 

http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/products/63600L.jpg

I recently bought one of these and love it too.

$128 for oil change/tire rotation at my local dealer. F - that. There's plenty of youtube videos...I'll be changing the oil here next week. Few tools (ramps, chocks, filter wrench, oil spill mat, oil pan, oil tank, gloves, wrags) and hopefully I'll be prepared - $25 for oil/filter)

I do have a question - does anyone know the best place to buy bulk drain plug gaskets? Wife and I both drive a Subaru (2019 outback and legacy 2.5) I've purchased everything else I need on Amazon, but can't find anything on that damn gasket.

$128 for oil change/tire rotation at my local dealer. F - that. There's plenty of youtube videos...I'll be changing the oil here next week. Few tools (ramps, chocks, filter wrench, oil spill mat, oil pan, oil tank, gloves, wrags) and hopefully I'll be prepared - $25 for oil/filter)

 

I do have a question - does anyone know the best place to buy bulk drain plug gaskets? Wife and I both drive a Subaru (2019 outback and legacy 2.5) I've purchased everything else I need on Amazon, but can't find anything on that damn gasket.

I bought my gaskets and filters on Amazon (6 package deal). Pretty sure this is still the same part number for the 2019’s since nothing changed.

https://www.amazon.com/2011-2018-15208AA15A-Geniuine-Impreza-Forester/dp/B071J2GZYN/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_3/140-5207866-6341302?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071J2GZYN&pd_rd_r=6b333d99-a1e0-4edf-b068-4625a31629f4&pd_rd_w=VYarX&pd_rd_wg=EjBl6&pf_rd_p=144c9400-e7ab-4127-a834-816f6410c5df&pf_rd_r=G39Y03ADF9XC1BDSHDTR&psc=1&refRID=G39Y03ADF9XC1BDSHDTR

There's plenty of youtube videos...I'll be changing the oil here next week.

Just be sure you remove the correct drain plug. (A few others have not.) If this is your Legacy's first oil change since new, be aware that the drain plug may be difficult to break loose and the crush washer may be stuck (by paint) to either the drain plug or the oil pan.

If you decide you want to continue doing your own oil changes (which I encourage), installing an oil drain valve (e.g. Fumoto) is highly recommended; it makes draining the oil almost a white-glove operation.