HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hello everyone! I have a few questions regarding our cars. My girlfriend has a 2005 Legacy GT sedan, 5 speed. It has 140k on it and is up to date on all maintenance. I also just put a brand new Subaru clutch in it with the TSK3 kit. When I met her, she already had a Cobb AP V1 and supposedly it has the Stage 1 flash. The car runs perfect and it scoots along very nicely. She hasn't been to the track much, but it's gone 13.8@ 100mph. Would a downpipe and Stage 2 flash get much more out of this? Would this be OK to do without changing the uppipe? Now, we are also picking up a 2005 Outback XT, 5 speed. It has about 155k on it and is all up to date on maintenance as well. We are picking it up this week. After I make sure everything is up to snuff, I know I will want to flash this one as well. It already has a catless uppipe, but that is the only mod. I'm thinking a catless downpipe and a Stage 2 Cobb flash on this would do well. So, my questions. Are the CNT downpipes alright? From what I've read, it seems like they are good for the price. It also looks like they are the same for the LGT and OBXT. Also, can I do something to be able to use the AP on both vehicles at once? Can I purchase a second license or something so I can at least use the same interface? Is it necessary to upgrade to the V2 or V3? What kind of performance can I expect out of the OBXT? I assume it should be pretty much the same as the LGT, it doesn't weight all that much more I don't think. Is there anything else I should look into or check out? I am new to Subaru's but I have been building cars for years. Thanks! Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Take a look at this thread for reliability modifications that will increase the life of your 05's. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html The cat in the up-pipe can disintegrate and take out the turbo and engine. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 That's quite a lot of miles to be considering going any further than Stage 2. Read the build threads to find out what's in store for you in the very near future - That said, you should at least get a V2 AP, as it allows you to update the maps and has a better interface and more importantly, better logging capabilities than the V1. A DP and Stage 2 flash should be about where you should stop with the performance mods. Dump your money into suspension if you must, but I highly suggest saving for your engine rebuild(s). An OBXT does weigh more than the LGT, but, it's about equivalent to having a fatty riding deuce as the weight difference is really only 250-300lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 No you cannot use the same AP on multiple cars. They marry per VIN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 I do all of my own work, so I'm not really afraid of an engine rebuild or two. I can't really complain how the LGT has treated my gf, she's put almost 100k on it in 3-4 years and all she's had to do is tires, 2 wheel bearings and the clutch. What usually goes in these engines at higher miles? Rod bearings? Mains? Rings? Gaskets? Thanks for the replies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 1. Turbo goes - which can take out the engine 2. Bearing - I don't know any more about this 3. Head Gaskets My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Most common is the head gasket at around the 100k miles. Other types of failures: - Cracked piston ringland - Piston rings - Spun bearings - Turbo My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Burnt valves. Before you pick up the OBXT have them do a compression test. If the car has been on the stock map, there's a good chance it has burnt valve or two. HG's aren't the issue with these cars as in older legacy's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I do all of my own work, so I'm not really afraid of an engine rebuild or two. I can't really complain how the LGT has treated my gf, she's put almost 100k on it in 3-4 years and all she's had to do is tires, 2 wheel bearings and the clutch. What usually goes in these engines at higher miles? Rod bearings? Mains? Rings? Gaskets? Thanks for the replies! LOL. Famous last words by someone who hasn't done a rebuild on a turbo Subaru. If "all she's had to do" is really what you stated there, she either doesn't drive a turbo Legacy, or it's on it's deathbed. 100k in 3-4 years (that's a shitton of miles per year) and maintenance equivalent or better than what's required on a Camry isn't nearly enough to keep these cars alive. I question your source on that. These engines can let go at any time, even before 100k, but, once you're over the 150 mark, you really should think about getting a new motor if you want to keep the car for a longer period of time and continue to drive it as hard as you wish. Rod bearings are usually the main reason for catastrophic failure, hence the Spun Rod Bearing club. Rings are a very close second due to oil starvation or knock/detonation issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Stop trying to scare the guy. I never did have no problems like you guy's are talking about. Yea, ok, I guess I took real good care of mine. Oh I guess owning it since new has helped. Yea most owners don't keep up with the TLC these cars need. Your GF's car is due to have its turbo replaced, very few last much longer then that. If I were you, I'd pull her DP and check for shaft play on the turbo. When you replace the turbo replace the oil return hose too. Make sure you check the oil in the OBXT and keep it topped off. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Oh read the stickys at the top of the forums. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 She's also done plugs and the timing belt, but that's just maintenance. Regardless, when I had the trans off I checked out the turbo and it felt pretty good. No thrust bearing play. I was actually pretty surprised. I'm sure I'll have to do the clutch on the OBXT as well in the not so distant future, so I'll check out the turbo then as well. Sounds like I really should get the catless uppipe for the Legacy and downpipes for both them them. Downpipe can only help the turbos dying situation. Are the CNT downpipes decent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 She's also done plugs and the timing belt, but that's just maintenance. Regardless, when I had the trans off I checked out the turbo and it felt pretty good. No thrust bearing play. I was actually pretty surprised. I'm sure I'll have to do the clutch on the OBXT as well in the not so distant future, so I'll check out the turbo then as well. Sounds like I really should get the catless uppipe for the Legacy and downpipes for both them them. Downpipe can only help the turbos dying situation. Are the CNT downpipes decent? You should also consider getting a good tune after you install the downpipe and flash the Cobb stage 2. It will be one of the best things you can do for your car in terms of reliability and more power. I recommend BrenTuning for a solid powerful tune 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 I was thinking of going with an off the shelf tune or just getting a cable and tuning them both myself. Would just have to get widebands for both of them and in the end it'd still be cheaper than an AP V2. I've tuned my 700rwhp GTO and my 650rwhp Silverado on E85 (both turbo vehicles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 OP where do you live ? I use www.tuningalliance.com He's been keeping my cars happy for over 6 years now. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 You should also consider getting a good tune after you install the downpipe and flash the Cobb stage 2. It will be one of the best things you can do for your car in terms of reliability and more power. I recommend BrenTuning for a solid powerful tune No matter what you decide to do, you should definitely get a custom tune. You can rock the OTS Stage 2 map for awhile, but, it's in your best interest to go get it dyno tuned by a professional. See the Regional forums for your area to find out where to go. DP won't do anything to really "help" the turbo itself, and, because it frees up power and works the turbo harder, it's really not any help at all to a dying or near-dying turbo. There's no bandaid for those -- only replace/rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Rochester, NY (Upstate) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 The better downpipe actually is better for the turbo. With less restriction after the turbine, it will have to work less hard to accomplish the same amount of work. This creates less heat, etc. Granted, as soon as you up the boost you would be working it a bit harder. My friend has a shop up here and tunes lots of Subarus and Evos. I could always just have him opensource tune them. I'll start looking into drop in replacement turbos anyways, Can't hurt to be prepared. Thanks again for all the replies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I have a Tuner in Scoita (sp) that used to Tune our race Civic. Morgan at http://www.synapseturbo.com/ Tell him Ryan's dad sent you. The yellow civic form CT. http://www.synapseturbo.com/gallery/index.php?cwd=Customer Cars/RyanSmithHotrod See what he can do for you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 I have a Tuner in Scoita (sp) that used to Tune our race Civic. Morgan at http://www.synapseturbo.com/ Tell him Ryan's dad sent you. The yellow civic form CT. http://www.synapseturbo.com/gallery/index.php?cwd=Customer Cars/RyanSmithHotrod See what he can do for you. That's only 3 hours from me so that could definitely be a possibility as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroStream6 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Any feedback on the CNT downpipe? And is an OEM catless uppipe just as good as the aftermarket ones? I think I'd rather go that route as they're thick cast pieces with all the heat shields and whatnot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Any feedback on the CNT downpipe? And is an OEM catless uppipe just as good as the aftermarket ones? I think I'd rather go that route as they're thick cast pieces with all the heat shields and whatnot. Well, it depends on what you read. Grimmspeed, Cobb, Perrin all claim that their UPs make better HP and flow better than stock. That said, the truly important part is that you get a catless one. So you can get a fancy aftermarket deal for $150+, or pay half that (or less) for an STi takeoff. See NASIOC or CL and find a late model STi stock UP to buy for cheap. No matter how new it is, don't pay more than $75. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 MrTris, he said down pipe... I guess CNT is about as good as others. I member here had a problem with an Invidia, I have not issue with mine. Get new gaskets and the grimmspeed 2X thick 3" gasket. http://legacygt.com/reviews/showcat.php?cat=13 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 MrTris, he said down pipe... Did he? And is an OEM catless uppipe just as good as the aftermarket ones? I think I'd rather go that route as they're thick cast pieces with all the heat shields and whatnot. 07-07-2014 11:24 AM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diode Dynamics Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Welcome to the forum Adam! Nick C. John C. Diode Dynamics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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