Wiring for post facelift HID lamps

thanks johnny for taking the time to write this up. so does the DRL come on during the day? when i tested mine, the DRL came on with the headlights and i gave up, was too tired to resolve.

I had disabled my DRLs with my old headlights so I didnt bother to wire up for them this time around.

other projects done so i'm back to this. looking at the jdm harness for the wiper washers and trying to figure out how to add the washer motor for the lamps.

Front wiper washer motor wiring:

BW (12G)

YB (10G)

wiring for the front wiper washer motor looks to be the same for both USDM and JDM.

Lamp washer

Single BW (10G) wire. not sure where it comes from

Relay: Y (10G) connecting to lamp washer motor

Lamp washer motor is 12V Koito 11958

Relay wires

Y (10G)

YB (10G)

B (10G)

BW (12)

Br (12)

BL (10G)

Threadjacking a little and bumping this thread

UTC_pyro, what do you think of the following method to switch the JDM light beam pattern closer to the USDM one?

Here's an update on swapping the projectors/shields in the facelift JDM lights: it's really easy. How much difference it actually makes idk cuz I never mounted them in the car before swapping projectors, but the light pattern looks fine. I do need to adjust the angle a little tho because the passenger's side light is aimed too low, and the driver's side is about right.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It really is that intuitive. Pull apart both headlights, take out the four little screws that hold each shield/projector assembly in place, and put the driver's side assembly in the passenger's light and vice versa.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure what fotofan was trying to achieve there, the shield and projector are identical between the drivers and passengers side. So that really did nothing.

You really have four options:

1. Flip the JDM shield - This causes things to be out of focus
   
2. Use the USDM halogen shield. You loose some width and again focus isnt perfect.
   
3. Make a custom curved shield out of a coke can or the like. If you have the skill this is the best performing option. It's an option that requires a lot of sub mm cutting and bending skill, patience, and in-depth understanding of optical physics. I have the laster, but not the former two.
   
4. Use the adapters I designed and drop in an off the shelf aftermarket projector.
   

Thanks for your input. I am a bit confused now. If the shields are the same, then how do you get different light cut out between the driver and passenger sides?

Therefore you must flip the JDM shields 180° and remove a metal tab for the USDM light pattern.

So to be clear, they both have these shapes but are not exactly identical, are they? If yes, then what makes the driver side headlight beam pattern on the JDM point higher than the passenger side?

Also, it just came to me... I know it is not ideal but couldn't I just hook up the leveling motor on the driver side only and make it point lower. Then, unplug the driver side and connect the passenger side leveling motor to get that light to point a bit higher? Trying to look at all (easy) options

Also putting this here for reference even though it is for pre facelift.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-hid-headlight-conversion-walkthrough-113094.html

So to be clear, they both have these shapes but are not exactly identical, are they? If yes, then what makes the driver side headlight beam pattern on the JDM point higher than the passenger side?

 

Also, it just came to me... I know it is not ideal but couldn't I just hook up the leveling motor on the driver side only and make it point lower. Then, unplug the driver side and connect the passenger side leveling motor to get that light to point a bit higher? Trying to look at all (easy) options

 

Also putting this here for reference even though it is for pre facelift.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-hid-headlight-conversion-walkthrough-113094.html

The shields are 100% identical for both sides. That is, USDM would have 1 part number for both and JDM would have 1 part number for both (if you could purchase just the shields but, alas you cannot).

If you have one light that is higher than the other, your lights need to be adjusted or your eyes could be playing a trick and making one side appear higher than the other.

I guess what I am getting at is adjusting the jdm lights 'up and down' without opening them up and touching the shields and stuff. As far as I understand, as they sit, the driver side will blind the oncoming traffic while the passenger side is currently pointing too low for us usdm drivers. That's why I was thinking to adjust each one of them separately, up and down using their respective leveling motor, until I set them so I don't blind the oncoming traffic. Of course, I am not sure what kind of overall pattern I am going to get. And it could be that the passenger side may blind oncoming traffic once I point it a bit higher. I don't know.

The JDM lights use a really soft sealiant, you don’t even need to bake them to open them. There is no reason to be afraid of prying them open to adjust something, you can do it in less than an hour.

Adjusting them how you propose really won’t work because they project much wider than your car. Thus your passenger side light will still blind oncoming cars.

Edit: speaking of this, I need to go take mine apart and see why the passenger side light stopped working in the last week...

Well, I finally tackled this job. I think it went OK overall. Did not use any washer or stuff like that. Followed the advise from the other walk-through thread, which mentioned to carefully flaten the concave area of the shield.

Came out at least better than the original JDM pattern IMHO. A bit of blue color on the upper edge but who cares . At least, it is sharper and I won't blind oncoming traffic.

Freakin can't wait to install the front end!

Adding this for reference (LHD vs RHD OEM shields):

http://foto.slovenija.net/photos/Danci/Razno/Subieforum/Zarometi/20131017_193842-7.jpg

Well, I finally tackled this job. I think it went OK overall. Did not use any washer or stuff like that. Followed the advise from the other walk-through thread, which mentioned to carefully flaten the concave area of the shield.

Came out at least better than the original JDM pattern IMHO. A bit of blue color on the upper edge but who cares . At least, it is sharper and I won't blind oncoming traffic.

Freakin can't wait to install the front end!

The blue tint is normal and you see that on almost every car with a HID light, even OEM.

The blue tint is normal and you see that on almost every car with a HID light, even OEM.

Then I did a good job . I never had a car with hid before actually. So I wouldn't know.

Per your question via PM: "IGG+" is just a generic term for the electrical bus that comes on the the ignition set to "ON". I got it from the OP connector and built a logic circuit that made it work the same as the OEM DRL module works (Generator signal to on & parking break off = enabled). If you don't want to go to that level of hassle, just using the +V off the 3-pin headlight connector should also work.

utc_pyro, I would like to use my 'corner lights' (the ones between the blinker and low beam on the jdm) as DRL. I would like to make it as simple as possible in terms of wiring. Now I may have missed it in the thread, but how do I exactly go about doing that and making sure that the low beam hid are effectively disconnected from the DRL module?

Can someone clarify this for me. I have a set of USDM facelift headlights that have been separated already. Can I separate the JDM Facelift headlights and swap the metal shields.

 

Basically putting the USDM shields into the JDM headlights, should that fix the issue of blinding oncoming traffic?

You could do what I did. I posted some pics in a previous post on this thread, where I flipped the jdm shield and carefully flattened it. The pattern is almost perfect now and much sharper than stock jdm.

I successfully wired my hid low beams as well as high beams and corner lights and everything. I would like to avoid having the hid turn on before the engine cranks. I cannot expect my wife to switch off the hid low beams before the engine cranks . Is there a wire in the engine bay that I can tap to and use with a relay to achieve what I'm describing?

You might be able pull something from the alternator. Like a relay driven from the yellow marked and then to ground. You got to try to see if it behaves like you expect.

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/alternator.png

But have an override switch in place as well to take care of if the alternator fails.

I have also seen oil pressure switch operated solutions.