What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

I have cobwebs on my dash.

cobwebs (and dead spiders) caused my sunroof leak Dead spiders and oak pollen blocked drivers side drain hole...

The tester is this one: https://www.amazon.com/AUTOOL-SDT-202-Automotive-Detector-Locator/dp/B07DC22RWS

 

Works great, and will pressurize the intake tract between 5 and 15 psi depending on leaks to crankcase and how much of the tract you test. Definitely can't get the whole engine to 15, but isolating before and after the intercooler it's right around there. That said, the small leaks I did see I saw at way lower pressure.

 

Do you mean pics of where to test for an evap leak, or a boost/vacuum leak?

both actually. I have read about Tuning alliance's approach for testing boost leaks: removing pipe from air filter, plugging it with can, blowing in the BPV hose. And I have read a write up at boost leak testers, but they are vague about removing some lines from the turbo inlet and capping them, or clamping lines.

It would be nice to see exactly where the smoke is fed into for the two types of tests and what lines, are capped, or clamped.

both actually. I have read about Tuning alliance's approach for testing boost leaks: removing pipe from air filter, plugging it with can, blowing in the BPV hose. And I have read a write up at boost leak testers, but they are vague about removing some lines from the turbo inlet and capping them, or clamping lines.

 

It would be nice to see exactly where the smoke is fed into for the two types of tests and what lines, are capped, or clamped.

I made a DIY tester and has some pics of it in use. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-smoke-leak-tester-277243.html

Ive read about removing and capping lines but never did. Cryo helped me find a leak one time and verified no leaks another - never capped or removed anything. We were looking for vac leaks, but its all the same.

I believe you can test the evap system at the same time as the boost, but there is a purge valve and solenoid that if closed may hinder it. You could attach near the firewall or off of the manifold at the purge valve solenoid hose. Cryo has some highlighted pics on his site that may help. https://www.cryotuneperformance.com/faq theyre under pretune checklist.

Got my 191k mile OE turbo back from the wagon.. Leaking some oil through the exhaust side, but wastegate arm is dead center and no movement on the wheels at all. Can't blame the turbos for killing the motors in my opinion.

Swapped wheel setups btw cars yesterday, and damn the specB looks good with STi BBS winters.

Anyone need a good VF40 for a rebuild?

Stupid odometer tricks!

Stupid odometer tricks!

 

To bad you werent doing 22mph at 2222rpm... Y2K for cars!

both actually. I have read about Tuning alliance's approach for testing boost leaks: removing pipe from air filter, plugging it with can, blowing in the BPV hose. And I have read a write up at boost leak testers, but they are vague about removing some lines from the turbo inlet and capping them, or clamping lines.

 

It would be nice to see exactly where the smoke is fed into for the two types of tests and what lines, are capped, or clamped.

Roger, I'll grab some pics and draw some arrows next time I'm under the hood.

Swapped on my winter wheel setup. First time on legit snow tires since ever.. any tips? I know how to drive in the snow, that's not an issue, just tire specific stuff I guess.

Scotty

See how those tires handle on wet pavement when you want to corner. That's the only difference you may feel. I had some all-season/winter tires that would push under wet conditions on this one X type intersection in a small town. I was surprised when the car on those tires pushed when I was coasting into the tight left turn into the X which had stop signs at the exits of it.

Other snow tires don't do the same issue. Those Nokian wr's were bad in the wet.

Howdy y’all. Haven’t been around much. Been living in Europe for two years.currently living in Southampton uk. Two years ago I got a 08 outback with busted engine, I put my 2005 legacy engine in it.

This spring while I was in the uk my car ended up crashed into a house ..

Well that’s about all about subies.

Otherwise I bought a sail boat and plan to sail around for a year or two .

both actually. I have read about Tuning alliance's approach for testing boost leaks: removing pipe from air filter, plugging it with can, blowing in the BPV hose. And I have read a write up at boost leak testers, but they are vague about removing some lines from the turbo inlet and capping them, or clamping lines.

 

It would be nice to see exactly where the smoke is fed into for the two types of tests and what lines, are capped, or clamped.

Forgot the evap, but pretty much i'd clamp off the line coming off of the 3-way purge valve to the blue tee behind the manifold, and then blow into the evap hardline by where the fuel quick disconnects are. You can also blow back into the tank through the line at the firewall to test for leaks back there, theoretically, but I've never tried.

A couple of pictures attached showing where I clamp (sorry no arrows once I realized how hard it is to see the connections unless I get right up on them). I didn't really read any of the guides, but pretty much clamp off anything that could lead to the crankcase. PCV behind the manifold, and then valve cover breather lines under the manifold where you see the long vice grips going (impossible to get a shot but the vent breather is the largest diameter line going to the inlet except the BPV hose. The exact location of the PCV hose may differ since I have the Perrin inlet, so you'll have to find a way to get at it maybe between the runners or through the location I used but at an angle.

I've also clamped off various lines testing their connections individually, but that's obviously on an as-needed basis. I've found the long hemostats you can get at Harbor Freight invaluable (like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-locking-clamp-94952.html)

I now own a handful of them for this type of stuff.

Another thing I learned - that Autool machine works great even as a smoke generator to then push with shop air, to save time on waiting for everything to pressurize and also to hit higher pressure since the smoke tester itself has a very small compressor, and you always have some leak through the rings and not perfectly clamped lines.

I ended up feeding it in through the turbo inlet, then got shop air into the BPV reference line. You can fill the manifold with smoke and then bring pressure up with shop air, watching it on the pressure gauge on the smoke tester. Obviously you'll need continuous flow if you remove the oil cap like you should.

Managed to get everything from inlet to TGVs up to 15 psi that way, whereas the smoke tester alone could only do the inlet/turbo and then manifold/TGVs in isolation.

See how those tires handle on wet pavement when you want to corner. That's the only difference you may feel. I had some all-season/winter tires that would push under wet conditions on this one X type intersection in a small town. I was surprised when the car on those tires pushed when I was coasting into the tight left turn into the X which had stop signs at the exits of it.

Other snow tires don't do the same issue. Those Nokian wr's were bad in the wet.

I've experienced the same thing on Yokohama IG52c winters. Absolutely terrifying first time I took a corner at moderate speed that was no issue on summers - damn near put the car into a guardrail. The General Altimax Arctics I have on my WRX don't have the issue at all, and the LGT handles better than the WRX on summers - really depends on the compound and tread design I guess.

First (successful) road trip with the car and first one post rebuild. Crazy party /bike race in the desert. Had to ford about 18" of water based on the markings on the car before a quick run through the touchless car wash tonight.

About 800 miles, no oil burning worth mentioning. Not great mpg though. 21 round trip with 3 people in the car and 1 bike on a hitch rack. I think that's about what my friends Titan gets.

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Another actually successful weekend, more money spent than what I wanted to but the spec B got a treat. A brand new ACT HD Clutch, after dropping the engine in last weekend the release bearing wouldn't engage the pressure plate on the flywheel... I fought with it a bunch and pulled it out on saturday night. Well I'm not sure whats wrong with it, but it won't clip in. Fast forward to sunday and I visit a shop I like with one of our local legacy guys who works there.

I checked out a new release bearing but everything looks the same. OK so they have a full kit in... F it, I don't want to deal and fight with the thing anymore and want to get this car on the road and not spend all winter on it.

So this afternoon/eve, new clutch installed, re-installed the tranny, drive shaft and front brakes and cv shafts.

Howdy y’all. Haven’t been around much. Been living in Europe for two years.currently living in Southampton uk. Two years ago I got a 08 outback with busted engine, I put my 2005 legacy engine in it.

 

This spring while I was in the uk my car ended up crashed into a house ..

 

Well that’s about all about subies.

 

Otherwise I bought a sail boat and plan to sail around for a year or two .

Thanks for checking in. I seem to recall you mentioned something about a sail boat a while back.

Now if BAC2.5 would check in...?

I joined the 4th gen club this weekend. Originally was flying across the state to pick it up, but weather got in the way so I got a rental and drove instead. Long day, but now I’m the proud owner of a BSM 2005 Legacy GT wagon with 5MT. Already had new winter tires/wheels waiting for it at home, so put those on on Sunday.

First (successful) road trip with the car and first one post rebuild. Crazy party /bike race in the desert. Had to ford about 18" of water based on the markings on the car before a quick run through the touchless car wash tonight.

 

About 800 miles, no oil burning worth mentioning. Not great mpg though. 21 round trip with 3 people in the car and 1 bike on a hitch rack. I think that's about what my friends Titan gets.

 

 

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MPG sounds about right with that much weight. Both stage 2 LGTs I've had with stock fueling got about 25-27 mpg highway, cruising at about 80 mph with just me and my 100 lb wife in the car.

Cool. I was getting about 19 doing 90 on the way back from NC with just me in the car. I'm guessing I just stay out of boost in town is the big difference. I kept reading about better mileage from people and was thinking either bigger turbos or possibly changes in the tune.

It does mean for group road trips, I'm less likely to use my obxt. Of the people that came or were supposed to come, we've got a 19 crosstrek, an older Titan, and my buddy just picked up a transit connect. Not terribly upset about it. Means less mileage on my car.

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Yeah, with stock turbo at 70mph (boosted at 3k rpm) I get 24.5 mpg but if I cruise at 60mph I get closer to 28-29 (no boost at 2600rpm). I have always wondered if having a second manual operated waste gate that opens just for highway cruising and keep out of boost could work? Maybe some fancy tuning that is beyond the capabilities of the stock ECU would be required, so that the waste gate closes over a threshold of gas pedal input to bring the turbo back online. Basically an ECO button that I believe some EU models have next to wiper heater (I could be wrong)

My other thought has been to start with the Spec B 6 speed that has higher gearing than standard 6 speed, so it's closer to the GT 5 Speed final drive. So would a custom 6th gear that drops 70mph rpm by 400-500 could also work. This way 5th is overdrive and 6th would be a super overdrive, but not too much as to lug the engine and be detrimental

FWIW, I have gotten 33MPG in the Spec following a buddy who was towing the 32FT 5th wheel for a weekend camping trip in NH years back.

So yea, the extra gear helps.

That's it. Need a 6sp swap and vf52. For gas mileage. To save money. Yea.

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That's it. Need a 6sp swap and vf52. For gas mileage. To save money. Yea.

 

 

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the PPG gearset upgrade and Quaiffe diff upgrade will improve mpg too