Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

If all else is equal and you just make the heads less restrictive, you'd expect higher MAF at the same MAP. But on the other hand, boost is mostly governed by the wastegate spring, but EGBP can open the wastegate too. Maybe higher MAF = more EGBP = lower MAP? I'm just guessing here.

 

More ignition advance might help with bucking, but of course you want to be careful not to add enough to cause knock.

 

 

 

You might also look at AVCS, and use less advance at the RPM/load area where you get the bucking. Valve overlap is the thing that makes big cams prone to bucking in the LS world, and less AVCS advance will reduce overlap.

You lost me at EGBP , exhaust gas bypass? I have someone tuning the car, EFI Logics (Subracabra people) but I plan to take the cobb tuning class to learn something. Because at this point I need a lot more hands on approach but at the same time I don't do things that I am uneducated on or don't feel I have the confidence to handle, especially when failure = #ynansb. So hopefully this online class they have can get me up to speed and feeling comfortable enough to mess with things I currently don't fully understand.

 

I know the basics from my carburetor days and NA car experience but I never really got into the nitty gritty of computer, fuel injected and forced induction tuning because it was just cheaper and easier to pay a professional.

 

Subaru/Newer car tuning is damn expensive, tuning a simple GM/Ford motor on a dyno back in my day cost like a 100-200 bucks, even cheaper if you knew the guy. But for 600-700 dollars a pop with this new age tuning, your damn right i'm gonna learn something lol.

 

I'm running a base, break in motor tune that they did via etuning cause they are 60 miles/an hour or so from me and I wasn't about to tow the car back and forth for that(no inspection at the time).

 

So I have no real reference to what's actually going on in the tune. Can I check timing and all that with the Accessport? Not even sure what I should be looking for tbh! I know the simple things, but there are a lot of little nuances that you have to learn to be really proficient with tuning. But to start learning I am going to do more logging to pinpoint when its actually jerking/bucking, baby steps! What parameters should I be logging? AVCS timing and ?

Edited January 24, 2022 by Tehnation

Found this in another post

 

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxhc3ViaWVuZXdiaWV0dW5pbmdndWlkZXxneDoxMGYzM2M5NjBlYzY3ODI4

 

This seems like some good information, a bit old, but should be good none the less...... I hate studying lol

My gas mileage is absolute horseflaps.... I hope tune gives me a bit more or this is going to be an expensive daily driver lol. I feel like when I had my old Chevy pickup and that v8 basically drank gas, you could watch the needle go down when you romped on it.

My car is no saint right now either and I don't have half of what you do.

 

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Its telling me I am getting 10 mpg .

 

I am also contemplating putting the stock exhaust back on!!??! What do you guys think?

 

Luckily the downpipe I bought off Marvick makes that option very easy . If I don't really need it, then I don't see any for all the noise. Hard to speed when cops hear you a mile away

What are you running for exhaust, I don't remember.

Some cheap 3" kit I bought off amazon for like 350 bucks.... Manzo I think. I put in a resonator and was able to tame it to where it's not actually THAT loud, it just sounds like I have an aftermarket exhaust on it. I can't hear the car idling in my driveway when I am in the backyard if that makes sense. I don't mind the volume that much at all, its just that the oem exhaust is extremely quiet!

 

HP/Performance vs Noise, if there is no hp/performance gain then no need for an exhaust. Does it affect the spool of the turbo? I'm looking for any reasons to keep an aftermarket exhaust but if all it does is make it sound different, then why?

 

Don't get me wrong I love the way it sounds, but i'm all about pros and cons. And in my neck of the woods, unnecessarily loud things are no bueno. Cops are like whats that sound, sounds like a car coming this way, let me get my radar gun out lol. I remember having a conversation with the tuner about the downpipe and they were like it doesn't really matter, they don't see many gains with a full 3" anyways, which is what got me thinking.

Edited January 25, 2022 by Tehnation

Post a sound clip. Exhaust is so subjective. I am absolutely getting old and am A-OK with quiet.

 

Stock manifold, 2" Cobb UP, 3" Cobb catted DP, stock mid and y pipes, TurboXS axle back bought from ^^^^^Infosecdad. I really like the way my car sounds. Nothing raspy, deep tone, quiet enough for the drive thru and let's you know when the go peddle is persuaded.

 

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A downpipe with HFC or no cat is where you get performance gains. Unless you are pretty high horsepower, full 3" back to 2 x 2.25" is more about sound preference. You might get a little performance boost, but it's likely small. I just can't drive with the stock mufflers, because I can't hear the engine and I shift by sound. A lot of the sound comes from the resonation in the 3" mid-pipe.

 

There are so many variations that are possible and no standard way of measuring the sound output, it's a deeply personal choice as to what someone likes. I've been through 8-9 different exhaust combinations so far. But that's my preferences :-D

Hmmm... I will keep it for now, then try the oem after its dynoed to see what happens.

 

Datalog 30

 

Looks the same like before when I was having all the issues not sure why its not throwing codes now as opposed to before lol.

The gain on a catted vs non are not a real big deal until you start making some crazy power. Also how loud is your car? It's really the mufflers, Hi-flow cat, that tame the sound. I have full TBE, with Hi flow cat, no res in between to my JDM Prova fujisubo mufflers. The car is quite, but when I herd it on the dyno at around 5500 to redline it was insane :lol:. On the highway it's tame.

Its not to bad, not going to worry about it anymore.

 

Anyone know what is supposed to happen if you pull the right wheel stalk towards you? I thought it was supposed to spray mist, but it only sprays when I push the button on the end. Is the stalk bad?

 

Is there any aftermarket stalks or part that would let my indicator stalk blink for a certain time then turn off , like most modern cars you push it one way or another a certain amount and it only blinks several times versus pushing it until it locks and wont turn off until you turn the wheel or move it back. I'm noticing i am always leaving them on because I am so used to my other cars. Can't hear the clicking over the car.

RTFM. Button squirts. Pull swipes.

 

Tapturn was a product made bag a forum member that allowed you to do the three blink thing. Not sure they are available anymore though.

I only have the fsm pdf. Bought the car used, no owners manual for simple stuff!

 

Maybe I should grab one on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224779651784

Ordered!

 

Is it the same manual for both na and turbo?

Edited February 8, 2022 by Tehnation

https://www.diodedynamics.com/smarttap-cf18-led-flasher-module.html

 

Found this mod, the original guy, Scott, who made it passed away.

 

His thread

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tap-turn-signals-31995.html

 

Apparently there is a way to do the mod yourself.... I hate ee stuff, but I will have to see which is more worthwhile, spending a couple bucks and some time versus spending 80 for a completed product.

 

So far the 80 dollar part looks really good, you can program a bunch of other things as well.

 

The SmartTap™ is a replacement turn signal flasher relay, compatible with any vehicle using a CF18 (LM449) Flasher. With plug-and-play installation, it offers a lot more than your average relay: an embedded microcontroller is loaded with exclusive software, which adds new features to your vehicle! You can program the features just the way you'd like, with the help of the included programming guide.

 

Tap-to-Signal: Anytime the turn signal is tapped, the turn signal will blink a number of times automatically. This one-touch signaling is a convenient way to signal other drivers when switching lanes. The number blinks is programmable, to make it as long or short as you'd like.

 

Unique Hazard Functions: The SmartTap™ has built-in strobe, slo-mo and wig-wag hazard functions to help your vehicle stand out when the hazards are on. Apply these functions on their own, together, or with the strobe setting for a total of eight unique hazard functions!

 

Arrival and Departure Modes: When the lock or unlock button is pressed, your turn signals will stay on in a steady glow, for better visibility when approaching or leaving the vehicle at night. The lighting time can be adjusted from 10-90 seconds for additional illumination, or disabled if desired.

Edited February 8, 2022 by Tehnation

Keep us updated on the exhaust. I'm in the same boat with mine, currently running catless up pipe and high flow 3" catted down pipe. It's a daily so I'd like it to be quiet but are there any low end gains I'm missing out on?

My tuner said if you lower the sound, you are essentially restricting air flow, which they are right. So putting on the oem would restrict air flow, but without getting on the dyno, no way to know if it would be an actual loss for my build level. So once its tuned and dynoed, we will know if restricting the exhaust some will make a loss or do nothing.

Keep us updated on the exhaust. I'm in the same boat with mine, currently running catless up pipe and high flow 3" catted down pipe. It's a daily so I'd like it to be quiet but are there any low end gains I'm missing out on?

 

For a stock setup, I don't believe there are any gains from going full 3"! If you have a stockish turbo, 16g/vf52, stock injectors etc, then the 3" is all for changing sound.

500 miles! So far so good. Time for an oil change. Going with Rotella T6 5w 40. Was using whatever cheap store brand oil they had at autozone for first oil changes.

 

I have probably filled up about 3-5 times to get that 500 miles..... ouch! At around 4 dollars (3.75-4.25) a gallon, it adds up quick.

Nice to hear. Hope that trend continues for you. I am on my 5th tank and right around 800 miles. I have been pretty easy on her so far.

 

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Gotta pull the motor.... again.

 

Heard tap tap tap tap, now it won't start. Not sure if its a valve or bearing...

I'm hoping its a valve issue and not a block issue. Heard tapping got louder and then died. If it were a bearing car would still start, but it looks like it is out of timing. Gotta get the car towed in the morning. Stay tuned!

Ugh, that sucks bud. Very sorry to hear. Wrenching is fun when you want to...not so much when you have to.

 

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Haven't even looked at it lol. To scared of what I'll find.

 

So what do you guys think?

 

What are the symptoms of a cracked head? Motor cranks, and I don't hear any marbles bouncing around. Tap tap tap to no starting? I don't think it was a bearing cause it would still start.

 

I think something is wrong with the head? Any thoughts?