2.2 Engine Build Need Some Help

Alright so I'm going to be pulling my motor once I'm back from school, meaning that this will be done in a month or so. The plan is to pull the motor, take it all apart and replace all the seals and gaskets as well as throw on a new set of heads. I have a rebuilt set of heads on the way from Northwest Cylinder Heads and then I have someone to port and polish them once I get them in. I am going to stick with Subaru OEM or equivalent high quality aftermarket parts. I just need to know if there is anything else I should replace while I'm at it.

The motor is a 96 2.2 Auto with EGR and 155k ish on it. The timing belt and all that stuff was done less than 10k ago so that isn't included on the list.

 

List of parts so far

Cam Seals

Crank Seals

Waterpump and gasket

Headgaskets

Separator Plate gasket

Intake gaskets

Exhaust Gaskets

Valve Cover gaskets

Sparkplugs (NGK Iridium)

Oil Pan

Oil Pan Gasket

Injectors

EGR Gasket

IACV Gasket

Radiator hoses (they are a little older then I'd like)

 

Is there anything else I left out?

 

The only other things I'm not certain on is should I order a new oil pump and oil pick up? I will also have a spare set of heads and cams after this so maybe I'll have a cam grind done in the future

- I wouldn't bother replacing the oil pump. Just remove it, remove the crank seal, check>tighten the screws on back, replace O-ring on the block, reseal it, and install a new crank seal. See THIS DIY.

- Add a new OEM or STant Xact Thermostat / T-stat to your list.

- NGK plug wires

td

- I wouldn't bother replacing the oil pump. Just remove it, remove the crank seal, check>tighten the screws on back, replace O-ring on the block, reseal it, and install a new crank seal. See THIS DIY.

- Add a new OEM or STant Xact Thermostat / T-stat to your list.

- NGK plug wires

td

 

Wow that looks way easier then I expected. I'll go ahead and get that o-ring. I already have NGK wires installed and I forgot the thermostat. I did a quick service with Advance auto parts about 20k ago but the thermostat seal leaks a bit and the hoses aren't exactly right, so they should definitely get replaced with OEM.

Being that your car is a 96, I'd assume it has the plastic plate behind the flywheel. Replace that with the new aluminum one from Subaru. It like 30 bucks. They warp after time and leak.

Don't buy an oilpan gasket, make one with permatex ultra gray silicone.

Being that your car is a 96, I'd assume it has the plastic plate behind the flywheel. Replace that with the new aluminum one from Subaru. It like 30 bucks. They warp after time and leak.

 

Oh, do you mean the separator plate? or a different one?

I'm not sure if that's what it's called. But when you pull the motor you'll see it be hind the flywheel. Also your list didn't have head bolts. Those are supposed to be replaced. Use quality gaskets and parts. I just used all felpro.

ya its the oil separator plate. if its plastic, replace it with the metal one

... Also your list didn't have head bolts. Those are supposed to be replaced. Use quality gaskets and parts.....

 

Head bolts DO NOT have to be replaced. I have yet to understand why Fel Pro says this in their HG parts info.

Subaru does not say they have to, nor do they do it when doing HG in their shop.

 

O.

Head bolts DO NOT have to be replaced. I have yet to understand why Fel Pro says this in their HG parts info.

Subaru does not say they have to, nor do they do it when doing HG in their shop.

 

O.

 

I heard the same thing, you SHOULD replace but then you have to stretch them by torquing them down and then loosening them. I really don't want to mess with that. I'd rather just use the original ones and torque them to spec and leave them be. I feel like there is too much risk to using aftermarket bolts and stretching them.

Torque to yeld bolts are supposed to be one time thing. Oh well, I used felpro head bolts. It's not hard to do the sequence.

Subaru head bolts are not TTY.

I don't want to get into a long discussion on this.

I can only ask that you show the world ANY Subaru literature that says the head bolts are not to be reused.

 

O.

I'm going to ask a few Subaru mechanics and see what they think. The head gaskets on this car have been done at least once by a previous owner and once by me and the bolts have 155k ish on them. So I wouldn't be opposed to replacing them but I'll see what the Subaru specialists think.

I was under the impression they were. So I was wrong. Oh well. I used felpro bolts. What's done is done. They are stretch bolts not TTY. apparently there is a difference.

I was under the impression they were. So I was wrong. Oh well. I used felpro bolts. What's done is done. They are stretch bolts not TTY. apparently there is a difference.

 

I didn't know the difference either but I've seen a few certified Subaru certified mechanics who have a sequence to progressively torqueing them to like 120ft lbs and then back them back to 70ft lbs er something. I don't know the specs off the top of my head.

There is a sequence get it from the FSM.

 

O.

REUSE HEAD BOLTS. Oil the threads; follow the sequence, per the FSM.

 

....back to the parts list:

 

- The rear MAIN seal - ONLY if it's leaking....and then, find a DIY as it can be a pain to get a new one installed 'just right'.

REUSE HEAD BOLTS. Oil the threads; follow the sequence, per the FSM.

 

....back to the parts list:

 

- The rear MAIN seal - ONLY if it's leaking....and then, find a DIY as it can be a pain to get a new one installed 'just right'.

 

I'm fairly certain it is leaking, I've got a decent leak from somewhere inside the bellhousing area and I'm pretty sure its the rear main seal but now hearing that the separator plate is plastic and tends to leak, it may be that. I'll end up getting both and see how it looks once I get it all apart. But thanks for the heads up.

It's not that hard to get the seal in there. I would do it. It's right there. Why not do it?

The head gaskets on this car have been done at least once by a previous owner and once by me

if the head gaskets on this engine have been done twice before 160k miles,

one of 3 things is absolutely true.

1/ some thing is wrong with the heads,

2/ some thing is wrong with the block,

3/ or something is being done WRONG.

 

this might be the first time i have ever heard of ej22 head gaskets being done 3 times on the same engine.

most never have them done.

 

i'm betting on the procedure.

but new heads will eliminate them as a problem at least.

 

the head bolt procedure is CRITICAL.

there is some reference to torque specs, so get that right,

but mostly it is all about half turns and quarter turns both tighter and looser.

so make sure you get it right.

get it wrong and you will be doing ti again.

 

and if you do it incorrectly,

there is no going back,

get new gaskets and start over.

better to be sure than to take a chance.

 

special tip:

in many manuals, there is a torque that is usually list in INCH POUNDS.

don't screw it up.

you are not stretching the blots,

you are ''pre-compressing'' the head gasket and then finally seating and sealing it .

it is not all about the bolts,

it is about the gaskets too.

 

iridium plugs are over kill.

the plugs spec-ed in the manual will work fine.

a "longer lasting" plug will save on having to replace them,

but they are so easy to get to why bother.

you are going to be in there doing some by 60k (?) miles any way.

 

i bet $20 that the rear main seal is NOT leaking,

unless it has benn replaced.

what you have not yet learned is that the oil sep plate is the BIG LEAK on the rear.

and once you replace it correctly your leak will be cured.

it is not impossible to replace a rear main seal,

but there tons of cases where a rookie has done it wrong,

only to re-pull and re-do them.

if it is not leaking leave it alone.

and i mean DRIPPING not just evidence of a slight ooze.

 

not sure why you are replacing the oil pan,

they done leak.

 

do not replace the oil pump,

do check the screws on the impeller

and replace the o-ring and re-seal.

 

when you did the timing belt,

did you replace the toothed idler?

if no, you better.

t-belts rarely fail,

toothed idlers fail most often.

but not such a big deal on your 96 ej22 non-interference engine.

 

 

finally,

you have come here for advice and help.

and there is a ton of it around.

please make sure the advice you listen to is good advice,

and please take the time to listen and use it.

it's why you are here.

 

good luck.

if the head gaskets on this engine have been done twice before 160k miles,

one of 3 things is absolutely true.

1/ some thing is wrong with the heads,

2/ some thing is wrong with the block,

3/ or something is being done WRONG.

 

this might be the first time i have ever heard of ej22 head gaskets being done 3 times on the same engine.

most never have them done.

 

i'm betting on the procedure.

but new heads will eliminate them as a problem at least.

 

the head bolt procedure is CRITICAL.

there is some reference to torque specs, so get that right,

but mostly it is all about half turns and quarter turns both tighter and looser.

so make sure you get it right.

get it wrong and you will be doing ti again.

 

and if you do it incorrectly,

there is no going back,

get new gaskets and start over.

better to be sure than to take a chance.

 

special tip:

in many manuals, there is a torque that is usually list in INCH POUNDS.

don't screw it up.

you are not stretching the blots,

you are ''pre-compressing'' the head gasket and then finally seating and sealing it .

it is not all about the bolts,

it is about the gaskets too.

 

iridium plugs are over kill.

the plugs spec-ed in the manual will work fine.

a "longer lasting" plug will save on having to replace them,

but they are so easy to get to why bother.

you are going to be in there doing some by 60k (?) miles any way.

 

i bet $20 that the rear main seal is NOT leaking,

unless it has benn replaced.

what you have not yet learned is that the oil sep plate is the BIG LEAK on the rear.

and once you replace it correctly your leak will be cured.

it is not impossible to replace a rear main seal,

but there tons of cases where a rookie has done it wrong,

only to re-pull and re-do them.

if it is not leaking leave it alone.

and i mean DRIPPING not just evidence of a slight ooze.

 

not sure why you are replacing the oil pan,

they done leak.

 

do not replace the oil pump,

do check the screws on the impeller

and replace the o-ring and re-seal.

 

when you did the timing belt,

did you replace the toothed idler?

if no, you better.

t-belts rarely fail,

toothed idlers fail most often.

but not such a big deal on your 96 ej22 non-interference engine.

 

 

finally,

you have come here for advice and help.

and there is a ton of it around.

please make sure the advice you listen to is good advice,

and please take the time to listen and use it.

it's why you are here.

 

good luck.

 

 

I really appreciate the help and advice. Long story short, I know one of the previous owners did the heads and the timing belt service around 120k and I did the timing belt job last summer because the bearing cap on the toothed idler fell out and let loose all the ball bearings. So when I did that job all the components (including the tensiorer) were replaced.

The head gaskets and timing were done by the other owner during a service around 120k, and I have record of it. I swapped a head on it once before because the dealership buggered up one of the spark plug threads and then proceeded to screw up a heli coil install and THEN proceeded to say **** off. So my only option was to throw on a used head that I had lying around, I got it resurfaced and threw it on so I could head to school the following week. The head I threw on has a tight valve, surely it has 200k on it. I replaced all the HLAs and tried a few other methods to alleviate it but it never went away. So now I'm just going to replace both heads with rebuilt ones so I never have to deal with it again. I was going to get a new oil pan just so that I can make the swap faster, I'd rather have new parts to swap on to get the motor back in quicker then to remove everything, clean, inspect and reinstall. It's very much overkill but I'm borrowing a buddies garage and lift and I really don't want to push his generosity.

Here's why I did the timing belt job

if the HLAs were not working correctly after replacement,

it is likely due to a clogged oil galley, passage, in the cam / rocker system.

 

if the gasket material for the oil pump is applied too thick,

and ooozes into the inside, oil chamber, and hardends,

it can be pumped up into the HLA oil supply passages.

a clog will prevent the hla from operating correctly.

 

new heads have new rocker arms and new HLAs??????????????

problem solved.

if the HLAs were not working correctly after replacement,

it is likely due to a clogged oil galley, passage, in the cam / rocker system.

 

if the gasket material for the oil pump is applied too thick,

and ooozes into the inside, oil chamber, and hardends,

it can be pumped up into the HLA oil supply passages.

a clog will prevent the hla from operating correctly.

 

new heads have new rocker arms and new HLAs??????????????

problem solved.

 

That's the plan, the new heads come with rebuilt rocker assemblies with new HLAs, thankfully not the mechanical lifter set up. I'll still inspect the passages and blow them out with compressed air just to be sure. I've heard they do a very good job in rebuilding heads but I'll still inspect it as well as verify the resurfacing was done within spec. The whole goal with this project is to never have to pull the motor apart again, hence why I am going overkill with a lot of things.

I got the heads in the other day and I will be ordering Subaru's Seal kit 10105AA022 which includes every single seal and gasket for my motor as far as I can tell. Subaru quoted me $352 for the kit and I found it online for $249 so that's pretty sweet.