Replace ball joints or entire lower control arm?

Just replaced struts with Konis as well as tophats. Still getting quite a bit of clunking so I figure it’s the ball joints going.

 

I drive on rough Texas and Oklahoma roads and just passed 100k miles.

 

My question is should I replace just the ball joints or the whole lower control arm? Should I go OEM or Moog, etc? Can I do this myself? I did the Konis myself and it went well so is this harder or easier?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I replaced the whole arms. I went aftermarket and the quality was very good. Replacing the whole arm is a whole lot easier than replacing just a ball joint. Not too hard of a job. Just hit everything with penetrating oil a couple days prior.

I replaced the whole arms. I went aftermarket and the quality was very good. Replacing the whole arm is a whole lot easier than replacing just a ball joint. Not too hard of a job. Just hit everything with penetrating oil a couple days prior.

 

 

 

Which brand did you go with?

 

 

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Easier. Skip replacing/pressing any bushings, ball or pillowball joints.

Grab a set of 2014 OEMs from rockauto, quirkparts, autoplicity, thmotorsports or whoever sells them cheapest.

Definitely replace the control arms, the rear control bushing is likely torn anyways.

Yup, it’s cost effective to replace the whole arm with Mevotech arms from RockAuto compared to buying new Whiteline bushings and pressing them in. Trust me, while you’re doing the job you’re going to want to do it as less frustrating as possible.

This thread has me thinking about my front control arms now. Developed a bit of a front right clunk after my Koni/Eibach install, sounds kind of similar to what you're experiencing. I'm having the shop inspect the car on Tuesday to make sure it's nothing relating to the suspension install, and if it isn't this is likely my next spot to check. The car has roughly 64k Chicago miles on it, so I expect pre-mature wear on just about everything. <$110 for both from RockAuto ain't bad.

Funny, I just went through this metal exercise, and definately cheaper to change the whole front arm, but I thought I had faulty ball joints. I went down the road of only changing the ball joints only for Mevotech TTX apparently a more heavy duty ball joints. figured that on the Montreal roads a heavy duty ball joint could come in handy. After all that said and done turns out my front coilovers were leaking. If somebody needs a ball joint tool Company 23 I am willing to part ways with it.

I get a click like sounds when I first get into my car on the morning... dunno if that is it but I will be inspecting it when the weather permits

This thread has me thinking about my front control arms now. Developed a bit of a front right clunk after my Koni/Eibach install, sounds kind of similar to what you're experiencing. I'm having the shop inspect the car on Tuesday to make sure it's nothing relating to the suspension install, and if it isn't this is likely my next spot to check. The car has roughly 64k Chicago miles on it, so I expect pre-mature wear on just about everything. <$110 for both from RockAuto ain't bad.

For all pre 2013s considering this, grab the 2014 part numbers as one of the things that changed with the facelift mis-cycle refresh were some of the bushings used in the front LCAs (and out back somewhere, I forget the detail).

 

Upfront 2010-12 puny ball joints went to pillow ball and were beefed up.

For all pre 2013s considering this, grab the 2014 part numbers as one of the things that changed with the facelift mis-cycle refresh were some of the bushings used in the front LCAs (and out back somewhere, I forget the detail).

 

Upfront 2010-12 puny ball joints went to pillow ball and were beefed up.

 

Subaru lists the current front control arms as being the same for 2010-2014.

 

The rear pillow ball change occurred in the 2012. This is copied from the 2012 FSM changes section

 

B: REAR LATERAL LINK

1. OUTLINE OF MODIFICATION

Pillow ball bushing has been adopted on the outer side of the rear lateral link.

2. DETAILS OF CHANGES

Adoption of pillow ball bushing resulted in use of ball joints for connecting the right and left rear suspension arms, and links and housing. This design has improved stability with a higher rigidity and ride quality due to a reduction in friction of suspension.

Thanks dgoodhue - I'm getting old and seeing more CRC errors when accessing long term memory. I remember reading that in 2012 I guess but also something changing up front. Oh well.

Well I ordered the OEM right front control arm assembly. Put me back $100. That’s the side I’m getting the most noise from so I’ll see if it solves my issue and go from there.

 

 

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Good call, best to replace in pairs, although on a 2014... I'm a bit surprised you'd need to replace them at all, Iowa climate or not. Then again I guess it is Q2 2018 so the car can be 4-5 years old depending on build date... worse things happen on 1-2 year old Subarus nowadays lol

Good call, best to replace in pairs, although on a 2014... I'm a bit surprised you'd need to replace them at all, Iowa climate or not. Then again I guess it is Q2 2018 so the car can be 4-5 years old depending on build date... worse things happen on 1-2 year old Subarus nowadays lol

 

 

 

Yeah I’ll replace the other side next month. It’s all about justifying costs to my “accountant”. Build date on my MY14 is July 2013 I believe. It has 102k miles and has spend 95% of its miles on the highway. Last two years have been in Texas and Oklahoma. Rough roads in these parts.

 

 

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I hear you on the 'accountant' front lol

Subbed.. getting the same issue from mine... thought it was the coils too at 1st... going on the lift next week to check it out. Once confirmed, I will be replacing both LCAs and anything showing too much wear... Should an alignment be done after replacement?

Yup, you don't have to do it right after but soon after is optimal.

When I was doing the blast plate install I ended up replacing the ball joints because they looked pretty bad. Something went wrong and I ended up replacing a knuckle and a bearing. Separating the lower control arm from the ball joint was not hard. Removing the ball joint from the rusted knuckle was a challenge.

 

If you are replacing control arms because you want better bushings go right ahead. If your ball joints are truly messed up replace those as well but be very careful with those retaining bolts.

I just got my new arms in the mail, $62.25 for a pair

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Control-Arm-Kit-For-2010-2013-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-2-Front-Lower-Control-Arms/232227266554?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l9372

 

Ordered Whiteline W0506 and Superpro SPF4863K to replace the bushings.

And will transfer my Whiteline KCA313 over to the new arm and i should be set for another couple of years.

So found out my specific clunking is right front axle play (likely shot) and apparently also front left tie-rod play. Honestly, the price of a replacement axle is terrifying to me, hoping I can work something out with the dealership as I'm still under extended warranty for the next 8k.

Removing the ball joint from the rusted knuckle was a challenge.

 

Something Pb Blaster and a hammer can fix?

 

 

So found out my specific clunking is right front axle play (likely shot)

 

 

Is the play in the axis of rotation or cyclical? Seems odd...

Here, I suppose video representation is easier than explaining it.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSKDhUcNN2Q]Legacy - Suspension Noise - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jYLX5AVMW8]Legacy - Right Front Axle Play - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMaOrkAjm54]Legacy - Left Front Tie-Rod/Wheel Play - YouTube[/ame]

Here, I suppose video representation is easier than explaining it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Holy nuts! Luckily mine does not sound that bad. Hopefully I’ll see a difference when I change out the lca next week.

 

 

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Oh god that axle play video sounds like you are ringing a bell