Suspension upgrade

Yes it will! Rattle can underneath the car usually look like ass after a few hundred miles of driving, these will look good for the life of the strut.

Could only stay after work for 30 min yesterday, and our blast cabinet is not the best, so i got 1 about halfway done. The paint on the KYB's comes off fairly easy though, easier than I thought it would.

Finally got the donor struts sandblasted. Spent way too much time on them with that barely working sandblaster in the shop. Dropping them off today to be powder coated.

 

 

 

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Looking good, can't wait for the final result. Don't think you can get a better price!

Just waiting on the donors to be powder coated. I also ordered the rear top hats just to be safe.

 

So, questions on the alignment. Do I need to take it to a shop that works with lowered cars, or can I take it to a place like Tires Plus? Also, what is the recommended setup for the alignment? Will factory specs be fine? Keep in mind I will be installing the adjustable rear lower arms. Also, to get it from home to the alignment place, how should it be setup so nothing gets messed up driving it there?

 

Sorry for all the questions, I'm a Jeep guy and lifting a solid axle 4x4 is all I'm used to.

Not much use in doing all that work and using stock alignment settings. Get it setup by a performance shop if you can. I set mine back to where it was after the suspension. Remember you have to drive it for a few hundred miles to settle the suspension.

 

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You can take it anywhere. Some shops have the lift sunk into the ground so its level, others have it above so it's a slight ramp up onto it, but I haven't been anywhere that's too steep to clear.

 

As for recommended setup, for general street driving, you'll want 0 toe all around to minimize tire wear. For camber, set it to your expected aggression level (less aggressive cornering needs less severe camber). -1 degree is personally the minimum I would go, but some run less (more vertical). Factory specs will be fine, but they won't be optimal for vigorous driving. Most chain style shops will only do factory specs. The most important thing is that your setup is symmetrical side to side.

 

Like FLlegacy said, it will settle eventually. I got my "factory spec" alignment at NTB when I installed everything, and am now going to go somewhere else to get custom specs now that it's settled.

 

As for getting to the shop, assuming its not a long drive, just set the adjusters to the same positions on both sides. When I installed my control arms, it was apparent that I had very positive camber and was toe-d outward, so I just adjusted it till it looked good and then matched the other side.

Edited May 12, 2020 by coco26

I went ahead and order the rear top hats, all 4 spring isolators and the front strut spacer (dome washer). Only things I'm reusing are the bumpstops, dust covers and front spring seats.

 

Planning on doing the suspension over Memorial Day weekend. Going to spray all the bolts down with lube this weekend.

Just got the donors back. They are almost too pretty to put under a car.

 

 

 

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Nice! Coming together nicely!

I didn't have them powdercoat the inside of the tubes since the insert is so tight anyway. I'm going to hit the inside with a rattlecan then assemble. And the Koni stickers came in today also.

I was hitting the bolts with PB Blaster today and decided to check out the rear top hats on the trunk side. Didn’t realize I’ll have to pull out the side panels in the trunk. Good to know.

 

 

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you don't need to pull them all the way out - just pull the fasteners towards the front of the car (right by the seats) then you can pull them out far enough to access the two bolts for each side (I left the fasteners out as it enables me to more easily access the strut tops when I want to adjust them - though once I got them where i like them, I haven't made any changes)

I yanked both entire panels yesterday. I’ll probably do what gteaser did and drill a hole in the panels to access the top of the Koni. It has the plastic trunk liner that will also need to be trimmed.

 

 

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What size do I drill out the rear top hats for the threaded rod to pass through? Just emailed Koni, but double checking here. I’m going to drill out the new ones tomorrow.

 

 

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31/64" (12mm)

31/64" (12mm)

 

Thank you. Koni customer service just confirmed it as well.

What size do I drill out the rear top hats for the threaded rod to pass through? Just emailed Koni, but double checking here. I’m going to drill out the new ones tomorrow.

 

 

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It's all in my Koni thread

Post 4

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-yellow-sport-shocks-2010-legacy-fitment-214426.html?t=214426&highlight=koni+fitment

This saves me having to search for that info, thank you. I'm going to put the inserts into the donors and assemble the rears after work today.

Got the front inserts sucked down, but didn’t realize we didn’t have any blue locktite at the shop. I have some at home so will get that done tomorrow. Went to assemble the rears and realized I’m using the dust boot and bump stop off the factory struts, which are still on the car. [emoji58]

 

It’s been a long week already.

 

 

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Edited May 21, 2020 by Falcor

Found some blue locktite at home and torqued down the bottom bolts on the inserts. Now they are ready to go. I will be tearing into the car either tomorrow night or Saturday.

Got the rear finished up just now. Had to work on it on and off today. Now that it’s back on the tires it has dropped about 1/4”. I have a feeling it will drop more once everything settles. On to the front in the morning.

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Nice! What's the blue brace?

Cusco rear power brace (687 492 RS)

 

 

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