Suspension upgrade

I painted my struts and haven't had much issue with it chipping other than a few spots where the fasteners go. Also following the directions for your specific paint matters.

 

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Genuine curiosity here, I see you're located in FL how much snow/road salt does your car see? You may travel north and it sees more than I know.

 

I had my Whiteline rear sway bar reinforcements powder coated (went black, going stealth here) for protection. Used E-coating first, but wanted more. Tried to convince the powdercoater not to strip the E-coat, but who knows what they did. The E-coating place told me they did work for John Deere equipment who does an E-coat then powder coat on top for best protection.

 

Now I'm not saying that's the only way to go, but in my experience living in STL, MO powdercoating will be a longer term solution. And we don't see anywhere near the same amount of snow/salt here as KS.

 

Maybe the PlastiKote enamel will work fine, never tried it myself. I'm glad I found this though, as I plan on painting the back Koni shocks black. Really wish I could just powdercoat them, save me alot of time and effort.

 

In the grand scheme of things Falcor will do what's best for him. Just giving my $.02, if it's even worth that much.

Edited April 22, 2020 by MarcoLGT

23mm front/16mm rear for US cars.

 

I can verify my JDM/rest-of-the-world spec Legacy GT that came with factory Bilsteins has a 16mm rear bar as well.

 

I assume the front will be 23mm too.

 

thank you very much.

 

Im wondering is I should upgrade to the whiteline front and rear anti roll bar.

 

do you know if the front is easy to fit?

 

my jdm br9 has alloy control arms. does yours?

Edited April 22, 2020 by JDMBR9

Genuine curiosity here, I see you're located in FL how much snow/road salt does your car see? You may travel north and it sees more than I know.

 

I had my Whiteline rear sway bar reinforcements powder coated (went black, going stealth here) for protection. Used E-coating first, but wanted more. Tried to convince the powdercoater not to strip the E-coat, but who knows what they did. The E-coating place told me they did work for John Deere equipment who does an E-coat then powder coat on top for best protection.

 

Now I'm not saying that's the only way to go, but in my experience living in STL, MO powdercoating will be a longer term solution. And we don't see anywhere near the same amount of snow/salt here as KS.

 

Maybe the PlastiKote enamel will work fine, never tried it myself. I'm glad I found this though, as I plan on painting the back Koni shocks black. Really wish I could just powdercoat them, save me alot of time and effort.

 

In the grand scheme of things Falcor will do what's best for him. Just giving my $.02, if it's even worth that much.

 

I'm getting a quote from the powdercoater next door for both RAL 1004 (in stock color) and gloss black. The RAL 1004 is not an exact match, but pretty close to RAL 1007.

 

https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-1004-golden-yellow

 

https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-1007-daffodil-yellow

That would be hard to tell without them being right next to each other and they won't be once installed. I had the sway bar reinforcements and brake master cylinder brace coated for $65. Said that was their minimum charge, like he felt bad about it. Hopefully it's not much more than that for you.

 

Why the quote for gloss black?

 

Why the quote for gloss black?

 

They do both all the time, so if black is a lot cheaper, I may go that way. A guy a work mentioned that since the fit is so tight already with the insert, that powercoat may fill up the inside too much to assemble correctly. The inside will need some kind of coating since it is bare steel.

 

It's always something

If you go black are you doing the rears? Didn't think it was an option even broken down with the lower rubber bushing.

 

Definitely don't let them powdercoat the inside!

 

Didn't think about sealing it though. Figured the top boot Koni supplies and the strut dust boot should work. The bottom hole might be a different story if you hit some deep snow, not sure there. Don't recall anyone else talking about that.

The bottom hole might be a different story if you hit some deep snow, not sure there. Don't recall anyone else talking about that.

 

The bolt that goes in that hole should seal it well enough. One drive so far on a salted road and my bolt is already rusted enough to seal for sure.

 

I was considering painting the fronts yellow too, but once I realized there's no yellow showing once that boot is in place, I didn't bother.

They do both all the time, so if black is a lot cheaper, I may go that way. A guy a work mentioned that since the fit is so tight already with the insert, that powercoat may fill up the inside too much to assemble correctly. The inside will need some kind of coating since it is bare steel.

 

It's always something

 

Yeah it is!...but that is what makes the end so rewarding!

 

Maybe just get the outside powdercoated, then do a light rattlecan coat on the inside before assembly? Then a bit of sealant around the opening after assembling, that would be more than enough protection for the inside I would think.

 

I'd also maybe bring it up with the powdercoaters to see what they say.

thank you very much.

 

Im wondering is I should upgrade to the whiteline front and rear anti roll bar.

 

do you know if the front is easy to fit?

 

my jdm br9 has alloy control arms. does yours?

 

I hear the front is a bit of a pain to do. Have not really looked into it though.

 

I did do the rear bar, put on a 20mm Cusco. That was a big difference, I love the improved cornering and quicker turn in.

 

No, I have plain old steel control arms. I think only the tS came with aluminum arms from the factory? Is your car a tS?

I hear the front is a bit of a pain to do. Have not really looked into it though.

 

I did do the rear bar, put on a 20mm Cusco. That was a big difference, I love the improved cornering and quicker turn in.

 

No, I have plain old steel control arms. I think only the tS came with aluminum arms from the factory? Is your car a tS?

 

 

no mine isn't a tS but is fully loaded with sti parts and alloy arms, lucky me lol

 

im not sure just replacing the rear bar is a good idea.

 

im not sure just replacing the rear bar is a good idea.

 

Replacing the rear does help. As far as the front with the 2.5, everyone says there is not enough room. The engine or trans is in the way (cannot remember). I'm planning on doing mine once the clutch needs replaced since it has to be disassembled anyway. On the 3.6R there is room and the front can be changed.

Yeah it is!...but that is what makes the end so rewarding!

 

Maybe just get the outside powdercoated, then do a light rattlecan coat on the inside before assembly? Then a bit of sealant around the opening after assembling, that would be more than enough protection for the inside I would think.

 

I'd also maybe bring it up with the powdercoaters to see what they say.

 

Here at work someone mentioned the powdercoaters may have something to plug the inside.

If you go black are you doing the rears? Didn't think it was an option even broken down with the lower rubber bushing.

 

 

The oven would do all kinds of damage to those rears. I was planning on leaving them as-is.

im not sure just replacing the rear bar is a good idea.

It's not a problem. These cars are tuned from the factory to be super biased toward understeer. I have the stock 23mm FSB and Whiteline adjustable 22mm RSB set to stiff, Koni shocks and H&R springs, and on track the car is very neutral, biased just ever so slightly to oversteer. I was never caught out at all, totally predictable and safe the 2 times I got some oversteer. Registered 1.1g going thru a couple corners at Laguna Seca....on high performance summer street tires. Edited April 22, 2020 by GTEASER

It's not a problem. These cars are tuned from the factory to be super biased toward understeer. I have the stock 23mm FSB and Whiteline adjustable 22mm RSB set to stiff, Koni shocks and H&R springs, and on track the car is very neutral, biased just ever so slightly to oversteer. I was never caught out at all, totally predictable and safe the 2 times I got some oversteer. Registered 1.1g going thru a couple corners at Laguna Seca....on high performance summer street tires.

 

but your talking about on a race track a nice smooth surface.

im talking about on normal roads,rough tarmac, which will be totally different.

 

why do they come from the factory biased to understeer?

Subaru spends millions every year on r&d. I would of thought they would know best lol

 

so is the trade off for less rear end grip from a bigger rear bar for less roll worth it on rough ish roads?

 

am I even going to notice less rear grip?

 

1.1g is impressive

 

does the jdm wagon share the same bilstiens as the usa cars?

I read people really hate them. mine is on stock bilstiens and sti prink springs.it rides well just has a lot of roll compared to bpe

I have whiteline bushes including caster bushes and top hats to fit when the lockdown is over

Edited April 22, 2020 by JDMBR9

Most manufacturers will bias their cars to understeer because its more predictable to the typical driver. US GT's didn't come with Bilstiens, we got horribly soft springs and under damped KYB struts/shocks.

 

why do they come from the factory biased to understeer?

Subaru spends millions every year on r&d. I would of thought they would know best lol

 

 

Because Subaru has to cover their own butt. Understeer is easier to control at/past the limit. Push too hard in wet conditions, car just goes straight, doesn't make the turn and mash the brakes. Built for oversteer, the back end comes around and you spin out. Which do you sell when you're company is on the line?

 

Kinda like when they limit boost from the factory on the engine. Does that mean don't turn it up/mod it because Subaru knows best?

but your talking about on a race track a nice smooth surface.

im talking about on normal roads,rough tarmac, which will be totally different.

 

so is the trade off for less rear end grip from a bigger rear bar for less roll worth it on rough ish roads?

 

am I even going to notice less rear grip?

 

1.1g is impressive

 

 

Pavement surface isn't going to make a very big difference in understeer vs oversteer. We are talking car balance, so the grip of the pavement doesn't matter, the balance will always be the same.

 

And you're not really lessening grip with a larger bar, you're lessening roll and redistributing the pressure that each tire is exerting on the road to produce grip. Yes, on uneven, bumpy pavement with stiff springs and sway bars the car will tend to "skip" sideways a bit, but that's why you invest in proper tires to grip and control that skip into more of a predictable, controllable slide.

 

Thanks! I was surprised. Fred used to log 1.2g with DOT rated track compound tires on his 3.6R..

Edited April 23, 2020 by GTEASER

Pavement surface isn't going to make a very big difference in understeer vs oversteer. We are talking car balance, so the grip of the pavement doesn't matter, the balance will always be the same.

 

And you're not really lessening grip with a larger bar, you're lessening roll and redistributing the pressure that each tire is exerting on the road to produce grip. Yes, on uneven, bumpy pavement with stiff springs and sway bars the car will tend to "skip" sideways a bit, but that's why you invest in proper tires to grip and control that skip into more of a predictable, controllable slide.

 

Thanks! I was surprised. Fred used to log 1.2g with DOT rated track compound tires on his 3.6R..

 

thanks for your reply's

 

as mine will never see the track I think a 20mm rear bar will be big enough, should stop the roll and still be compliant on the rough tarmac where I live

 

do you know if the 22mm whiteline bar on soft is as stiff as the 20mm on hard?

no mine isn't a tS but is fully loaded with sti parts and alloy arms, lucky me lol

 

im not sure just replacing the rear bar is a good idea.

 

 

Lucky!

 

As already mentioned, replacing just the rear is fine.

 

I had the same apprehensions on oversteer, ride comfort, and loss of straight line stability, and asked on here about uprating just the rear.

 

There are quite a few members here who have done just the rear who shared their experiences. Based on the positive reactions I went through with it too.

 

Driving here is like Paris Dakar but with horrible traffic jams. I've pushed hard on roads you might consider green lanes and it never did anything it shouldnt have.

 

USA never got factory Bilsteins. Count me in with those not happy with them. They were horrible with potholes and minor road imperfections, harsh and jarring. They did come into their own at high speed though. I switched to KWs, they are stiffer but less harsh than the Bilsteins.

Here at work someone mentioned the powdercoaters may have something to plug the inside.

 

Yeah they can plug the opening so only the outside is coated, if you prefer it.

 

I'd check with them on what they recommend for the inside, especially since they are next door and you can show them the insert and they can see how it fits together.

Yeah they can plug the opening so only the outside is coated, if you prefer it.

 

I'd check with them on what they recommend for the inside, especially since they are next door and you can show them the insert and they can see how it fits together.

 

It's weird, they answered all my questions, but when I asked for a quote it was silence. Sent another email yesterday and still nothing. I'll probably have to give the guy a call.

 

They powdercoated the mesh grill I made for the Outback for free and a guy here's wheels for his old Firebird for like $100. I think they cut us a deal since we buy other things from them, and we lease our building from them.

Just found out gloss black will be free and yellow will be expensive because they do not have RAL 1004 in stock (assumed they did). So, going black. Now I need to sandblast the donors in our little blasting cabinet. I asked how to keep the powdercoat out of the inside since the insert is very snug. I'll hit the inside with rattle can black since it is uncoated.

Too bad getting the yellow is turning into such a hassle!

 

But getting getting the powdercoat for free is nice.

They are gloss black now, sandblasting, and going back to gloss black. This is getting to be a long drawn out process. It will be worth it in the end.....I keep telling myself.