What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

Good to know we can mix and match what we need. I wish the ac vent panel was similar but it has that little tab that mates with the cluster hood. Almost bought a rhd panel before I caught that!

 

Yeah, the center dash bezel and the gauge cluster surround are some of the most frustrating bits since they're LHD/RHD specific. I'm pretty sure you can find a black LHD center dash bezel, but you'll have to source from Russia. I know they had a special edition called the Deep Cherry Edition there that had all the black trimmings, but those are number plated and hella rare. Unsure if the black was an option outside of those.

 

Learned something new today.

 

Also, I wonder if one of those taillight spray smoke rattle cans would get the color close to factory.

Yeah, the center dash bezel and the gauge cluster surround are some of the most frustrating bits since they're LHD/RHD specific. I'm pretty sure you can find a black LHD center dash bezel, but you'll have to source from Russia. I know they had a special edition called the Deep Cherry Edition there that had all the black trimmings, but those are number plated and hella rare. Unsure if the black was an option outside of those.

 

 

Huh, first I'd heard of that special edition, cool!

 

Our market did get the dark panels with the facelift. But we dont have a salvage market because there arent many LGT's here.

 

Mexico has the JDM/Euro market version 5th gens from what I've seen, they will probably have the dark panels with their facelift?

Hey, just wrap yours with black polished aluminum imitation film as i did for mine. I have both original black headunit frame and wrapped middle console. These look almost identical.

^yeah thats one option, I've seen brushed aluminum film that would be a close match to the factory finish.

I started doing my car spring. I cleaning washed and vacuumed my Legacy GT/Outback and removed the winter mats on the Outback. (I never put them in the LGT this year)

Installed my Cusco 687 492 FM braces today. Started on the 687 492 RM rear member braces but the rusty bolt and nut on the left LCA was a total MF and the combination of too short jack stands and a sore right shoulder from a crash during an Easter family bike ride meant I had to get medieval with levers and what not. TLDR: bolt is out, new bolt isn’t going in because LCA is playing hard to get. Tomorrow’s problem...

Had my Subaru window deflectors brought over (quaratined, high risk wife and newborn) to find out the hardware is missing. Got the ok to go look, 2 hours later still nothing, yay!

 

Really need to clean out that junkyard I've collected between 2 cars...

Installed all my carbon hydro-dipped bits from Sideway. Very happy with the interior update, and still impressed by the finish on these for being hydro-dipped. Note: those AC vents are a NIGHTMARE to get out and then get apart to replace that piece (especially the passenger side, have to basically take the entire glove box section out). Either way, nice little afternoon project.

 

Installed all my carbon hydro-dipped bits from Sideway. Very happy with the interior update, and still impressed by the finish on these for being hydro-dipped. Note: those AC vents are a NIGHTMARE to get out and then get apart to replace that piece (especially the passenger side, have to basically take the entire glove box section out). Either way, nice little afternoon project.

 

Wow... that looks unreal!

Edited April 15, 2020 by Zee199969

Stripped the nut on the clutch pipe trying to change the hose....and yes, I had proper tools. I should not have used a bar for more leverage smh

Had to replace both now. An added $12 and 15 more minutes to a simple job

*sigh*

 

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Stripped the nut on the clutch pipe trying to change the hose....and yes, I had proper tools. I should not have used a bar for more leverage smh

Had to replace both now. An added $12 and 15 more minutes to a simple job

*sigh*

 

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I always put a vise-grip over the flare nut wrench and lock it down tight. Even quality flare nut wrenches will spread as you put pressure on them to break a fitting loose, leading to it slipping around the corners of the nut and rounding it little by little. I've never had to struggle breaking a flare nut free since, risk rounding one off, or needed to use unusual amounts of force.

^Nice tip GTEASER, I am trying to avoid the same problem with another car's brake hose fittings, they are on hella tight. I will be soaking in penetrating oil, heating up the fitting, and clamping the wrench too for good measure.

I always put a vise-grip over the flare nut wrench and lock it down tight. Even quality flare nut wrenches will spread as you put pressure on them to break a fitting loose, leading to it slipping around the corners of the nut and rounding it little by little. I've never had to struggle breaking a flare nut free since, risk rounding one off, or needed to use unusual amounts of force.

 

Good tip, I have never thought of that. I have a nice set of flare nut wrenches but I always wary of them separating.

 

A similar tip is for the O2 sensor socket (The sockets with the slit in them for the wiring), I put a metal hose clamp over the socket to prevent it from opening and stripping the bolt head off.

Edited April 17, 2020 by dgoodhue

Great tips guys....I'll remember for next time. Luckily this wasn't an expensive problem.

 

I got everything back together and had my wife sit in the driver's seat (for the first time and last time) helping me bleed the clutch lol

 

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^Nice tip GTEASER, I am trying to avoid the same problem with another car's brake hose fittings, they are on hella tight. I will be soaking in penetrating oil, heating up the fitting, and clamping the wrench too for good measure.

 

Years ago, a nice diesel mechanic taught me a trick for bleeder screws and it has worked for pretty much any other stuck bolt, unless it's connected to something that can't be heated.

Heat up the nut and take a rag soaked in water, wrap it around the nut and cool it down as fast as possible. I haven't busted a bleeder screw since and I have seen some really crusty vehicles in this rust belt.

Because of you enablers Ed at XRT is having his way with my ECM this weekend....

Years ago, a nice diesel mechanic taught me a trick for bleeder screws and it has worked for pretty much any other stuck bolt, unless it's connected to something that can't be heated.

Heat up the nut and take a rag soaked in water, wrap it around the nut and cool it down as fast as possible. I haven't busted a bleeder screw since and I have seen some really crusty vehicles in this rust belt.

 

Thanks for the tip! Yeah, I hope to be doing that soon, out of stuff to heat it with. My wife's hair drier couldnt hack it.

Because of you enablers Ed at XRT is having his way with my ECM this weekend....

I think I saw your initial graphs on facebook. I'm very interested in the results.

 

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Because of you enablers Ed at XRT is having his way with my ECM this weekend....

 

What engine parts do you have? Clutch? I'm also interested to hear your experiences compared to mine. Ed also did my stage 2 tune.

What engine parts do you have? Clutch? I'm also interested to hear your experiences compared to mine. Ed also did my stage 2 tune.

 

Internally the motor is stock.

Fuel delivery is stock

Clutch is newer exedy oem replacement, it was done when I bought the car

 

Only mods are an Invidia Catted Turbo back exhaust and a turbosmart compact BPV. I was running the Cobb OTS stage 2 93 octane. I was looking for a more refined tune. The Cobb was more ..... nothing .... 3500 RPM and

BOOOOOOOSSSSSTTTTTT then 5000 RPM and nothing.

 

So far its been an interesting process with Ed. A little bit of a language barrier, sometimes his accent is a challenge. The guy is rainman when it comes to these cars. I think if I sneeze during a pull he sees it in the data.

 

I blew a hose off the BPV mid pull with his V1 tune. Scared the hell out of me. He basically told me what to check and sure enough, there it was. With the V1 the car had so much grunt it was almost uncivilized. Fun as hell but not suited for a daily driver.

 

Right now I have a boost solenoid issue I'm trying to flesh out. The solenoid was stuck. Cleaned it out once with brake cleaner and its a little better, but still not 100% but I'm afraid I'm going to have to replace it.

 

He recommends GrimmSpeed BCS but I can't seem to figure out what I need for out cars. Looks like some kind of adapter plate that is listed as coming soon on their website? Anybody have some part/kit numbers for me?

 

We are kind of paused in the process until I get this boost control issue solved.

 

Edit - of course GT Teaser had it on here somewhere! -- https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5358457&postcount=5

Edited April 20, 2020 by poconoracing

I think I saw your initial graphs on facebook. I'm very interested in the results.

 

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Yup I just looked. Thats mine

He recommends GrimmSpeed BCS but I can't seem to figure out what I need for out cars. Looks like some kind of adapter plate that is listed as coming soon on their website? Anybody have some part/kit numbers for me?

The boost control solenoid setup/part number used by the 2010-2012 LGT is the same as used on the 15-20 WRX and 14-18 Forester XT (at least that's what parts.subaru.com says - it's p/n 16102AA520) - so I think that's the part you want ($150 on their website - it mounts with 2 bolts just like the OEM one, and has a bracket with the solenoid on it that sort of sits to the side

https://www.grimmspeed.com/categories/make/subaru/wrx-15/boost-control/

The boost control solenoid setup/part number used by the 2010-2012 LGT is the same as used on the 15-20 WRX and 14-18 Forester XT (at least that's what parts.subaru.com says - it's p/n 16102AA520) - so I think that's the part you want ($150 on their website - it mounts with 2 bolts just like the OEM one, and has a bracket with the solenoid on it that sort of sits to the side

https://www.grimmspeed.com/categories/make/subaru/wrx-15/boost-control/

 

This is what you will need but you have to modify it. It is setup of the for the WRX air intake but our is oriented slight different and the hose diameter going to the turbo wastegate actuator is smaller on our cars.

This is what I ordered. GT Teaser had it in a post a ways back.

 

https://www.grimmspeed.com/electronic-boost-control-solenoid-3-port-solenoid-only-2015-wrx-fa20-2010-2012-lgt/

 

https://www.grimmspeed.com/turbo-inlet-adapter-2015-wrx-fa20-2010-2012-lgt/

 

So the tuning is on hold for a couple days until I can sort out the boost controller.