Suspension upgrade

Just checked the SPC arm side by side. They are identical.

 

 

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I might be heading up there in the next couple weeks to get a new set of wheels/tires from that Fitment Industries shop...? Could always meet up somewhere to see if you like how the Eibach's sit on the stock wheels.

 

You'll have to let me know if you guys plan something, that's maybe 15 minutes from my house.

Rear struts arrived today. They were on back order. Now I have everything. Need to assemble the front struts then will be ready to go. I might have to wait till the outbreak dies down before I can take it to get aligned though. That gives me time to get everything ready.

 

I had a picture pop up on my Amazon photos app that reminded me I have had the Eibach springs for a year now, unopened in the box. It's about time they get put to work.

Rear struts arrived today. They were on back order. Now I have everything. Need to assemble the front struts then will be ready to go. I might have to wait till the outbreak dies down before I can take it to get aligned though. That gives me time to get everything ready.

 

I had a picture pop up on my Amazon photos app that reminded me I have had the Eibach springs for a year now, unopened in the box. It's about time they get put to work.

I would recommend just doing the rears. They are easy, you don't need a spring compressor as long as you are careful disassembling them, and it won't need an alignment to do them. 4 hours tops. Just remove the outboard LCA bolt to the rear knuckle and it will be a breeze, if you try to leave that connected you'll never get the old shock out. And I use a long drift to help get the bolts back in.

Rear struts arrived today. They were on back order. Now I have everything. Need to assemble the front struts then will be ready to go. I might have to wait till the outbreak dies down before I can take it to get aligned though. That gives me time to get everything ready.

 

I had a picture pop up on my Amazon photos app that reminded me I have had the Eibach springs for a year now, unopened in the box. It's about time they get put to work.

Nice still waiting on my rears. I feel like I'm "racing" you to get this dang suspension in lol. The fronts have been built and ready to go for almost a week now.

 

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I can see the argument for waiting until you can get an alignment, though, having experienced the sketchy ride caused by all the toe-out you get from lowering the front. You could put the rear shocks in and keep the stock springs back there for the time being, but I'll be honest, if it was me, I'd probably wait and do it all at once. For reference, the skid plate I bought a few years ago is still sitting on the shelf waiting to go on...

Nice still waiting on my rears. I feel like I'm "racing" you to get this dang suspension in lol. The fronts have been built and ready to go for almost a week now.

 

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You are ahead of me there on the front struts. How was it cutting up the front strut and getting it all together? Also, did you paint the front struts to match the rear?

I can see the argument for waiting until you can get an alignment, though, having experienced the sketchy ride caused by all the toe-out you get from lowering the front. You could put the rear shocks in and keep the stock springs back there for the time being, but I'll be honest, if it was me, I'd probably wait and do it all at once. For reference, the skid plate I bought a few years ago is still sitting on the shelf waiting to go on...

 

Planing on doing it all at once. That way I'm not tearing into it multiple times.

Planing on doing it all at once. That way I'm not tearing into it multiple times.

 

Smart choice.

 

Change in ride height will affect alignment angles (camber/toe). You have adjustable rear control arms, change in camber angles will affect toe angles. Rear toe will affect front toe.

 

Do it once do it right!

I can see the argument for waiting until you can get an alignment, though, having experienced the sketchy ride caused by all the toe-out you get from lowering the front. You could put the rear shocks in and keep the stock springs back there for the time being, but I'll be honest, if it was me, I'd probably wait and do it all at once. For reference, the skid plate I bought a few years ago is still sitting on the shelf waiting to go on...

I know how you feel. My skid plate is uninstalled for the last 5 years. :cry:

I know how you feel. My skid plate is uninstalled for the last 5 years. :cry:

 

Of course, you do have 2 other toys to play with

I got the cutting, drilling and grinding done on the donors yesterday. Now just need to prep, paint, and assemble. I ordered a can of Krylon Farm & Implement paint in School Bus Yellow.

 

 

 

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I wish I didn't paint my front struts school bus yellow and just left them black. Too much dirt and they get chipped from normal usage. You also really can't see them with the wheels and tires on.

Only positive vibes on this forum. Everything will stay pretty and shiny.

I wish I didn't paint my front struts school bus yellow and just left them black. Too much dirt and they get chipped from normal usage. You also really can't see them with the wheels and tires on.

I like the yellow, makes the struts stand out when the tires are off. Or when up on ramps during maintenance.

 

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I wish I didn't paint my front struts school bus yellow and just left them black. Too much dirt and they get chipped from normal usage. You also really can't see them with the wheels and tires on.

 

This is what immediately came to mind. Krylon might not not be up to task down there. I'd look into getting it powdercoated IMO.

This is what immediately came to mind. Krylon might not not be up to task down there. I'd look into getting it powdercoated IMO.

 

I asked the powdercoating place next door and they don't run school bus yellow. So it would have to be a special run. The Krylon is farm and implement paint, so it's a bit tougher than normal. Customer Service at Koni told me they use PlastiKote T-29 (School Bus yellow) for touchups and repaint after rebuilds.

 

 

Edited April 17, 2020 by Falcor

I agree with the farm and implement paint being much stronger, but I prefer to get a can of paint and brush it on. It's too difficult to get a good coat from a spray can because they have to dilute it so much to get it to spray out of the can properly. It goes on much thicker with a brush and it really doesn't matter if it's completely smooth because no one will see them clearly. It will resist chips better as well.

Or you could brush, lightly sand and then spray a top coat if the smooth finish matters to you. Sounds good and durable too having been brushed on first and finished with a spray job....

 

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I asked the powdercoating place next door and they don't run school bus yellow. So it would have to be a special run. The Krylon is farm and implement paint, so it's a bit tougher than normal. Customer Service at Koni told me they use PlastiKote T-29 (School Bus yellow) for touchups and repaint after rebuilds.

 

 

 

Cool to know what Koni is using, thanks!

 

Lucky you, having a powdercoat place right by you! I'd love to have one close by to do all the little stuff I tinker with. Personally I'd settle for a different shade to get the powdercoat benefit, maybe even not yellow? Koni uses red on some of their other ranges so that could be an option.

 

Anyway, if you go with paint, curious to know how that holds up. Please do post your experience with it.

Cool to know what Koni is using, thanks!

 

Lucky you, having a powdercoat place right by you! I'd love to have one close by to do all the little stuff I tinker with. Personally I'd settle for a different shade to get the powdercoat benefit, maybe even not yellow? Koni uses red on some of their other ranges so that could be an option.

 

Anyway, if you go with paint, curious to know how that holds up. Please do post your experience with it.

 

Will do.

If you go the paint route and want it to last. Need to scuff it, prime it (multiple coats?) then paint it (multiple coats?) Potentially sand it somewhere in the process.

 

Used Hammerite on a diff and that's peeling off. They claim it doesn't need a primer... Painted brake calipers with high temp, it's all gone. That car only has 1500 miles in 2 years and not winter driven but it's not in a garage either.

 

I say let the pros do it on this one considering it's a daily driver in the salt belt.

Does anyone know what the stock size anti roll bar size is front and rear?

Thanks

If you go the paint route and want it to last. Need to scuff it, prime it (multiple coats?) then paint it (multiple coats?) Potentially sand it somewhere in the process.

 

Used Hammerite on a diff and that's peeling off. They claim it doesn't need a primer... Painted brake calipers with high temp, it's all gone. That car only has 1500 miles in 2 years and not winter driven but it's not in a garage either.

 

I say let the pros do it on this one considering it's a daily driver in the salt belt.

I painted my struts and haven't had much issue with it chipping other than a few spots where the fasteners go. Also following the directions for your specific paint matters.

 

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Does anyone know what the stock size anti roll bar size is front and rear?

Thanks

 

23mm front/16mm rear for US cars.

 

I can verify my JDM/rest-of-the-world spec Legacy GT that came with factory Bilsteins has a 16mm rear bar as well.

 

I assume the front will be 23mm too.