What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Rear bearings - I know the general consensus here is OEM. I had good luck with Timken fronts so I replaced whatever happened to be on the rear with Timkens earlier in the year. Sounds like I need new rears again.

Are there any beefier options?

Rear bearings - I know the general consensus here is OEM. I had good luck with Timken fronts so I replaced whatever happened to be on the rear with Timkens earlier in the year. Sounds like I need new rears again.

 

 

 

Are there any beefier options?

Rear bearings - I know the general consensus here is OEM. I had good luck with Timken fronts so I replaced whatever happened to be on the rear with Timkens earlier in the year. Sounds like I need new rears again.

 

 

 

Are there any beefier options?

Really, Timkens and you have noise ? They are one of the best, but nothing is perfect.

The Moogs on my wagons rears have been great for many years.

I think its post 162 in JmP's sticky up top about various parts.

No lift here. That's with the car on ramps and me on the asphalt.

 

Also anyone have the torque specs for the header fasteners handy? Going to re-torque today and check for exhaust leaks.

29.5 lbft

Been going back and forth about powdercoating the big brakes instead of painting before they go on the wagon. Found a post on another forum where someone claimed Brembo told them that the baking process ruins the heat treatment and drops the caliper stiffness. Sounds a bit fishy to me given that rotors can get rather toasty, but it gave me pause. Time to look up some aluminum HT specs at work maybe.

Found this on Brembo's site:

https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/5-reasons-not-to-use-repainted-brake-calipers-brembo

None of it really calls to a materials problem. If they truly thought it was a safety issue, it would be way up top in a big flashing banner.

There are various other people out there saying it's a bad idea, but most of their points have to do with shops doing it wrong, such as not removing the pistons or the various seals and o-rings, or getting powder coat in the pistons or passages, etc.. Seems to be a "bad at their job" thing more than anything else.

Found this on Brembo's site:

 

https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/5-reasons-not-to-use-repainted-brake-calipers-brembo

 

None of it really calls to a materials problem. If they truly thought it was a safety issue, it would be way up top in a big flashing banner.

 

There are various other people out there saying it's a bad idea, but most of their points have to do with shops doing it wrong, such as not removing the pistons or the various seals and o-rings, or getting powder coat in the pistons or passages, etc.. Seems to be a "bad at their job" thing more than anything else.

I get a solid sense of 'don't mess with it, idjit' from that doc.

From that doc, all I got was a bunch of marketing wank. Similar to OE saying anything but their parts is bad or servicing by an outside shop is also bad. Bunch of nonsense in my opinion meant to get you to buy straight from them.

I will say there is some good in it, like watch out for fake castings or poorly rebuilt / poorly painted calipers. They state that they put it through multiple ovens to cure paint themselves so I'd say you won't be hardening or annealing the casting unless you are taking the oven to an obscene temperature. Research the paint being used, and use good sense. A caliper might see 200+ F on a track anyway.

Just my 2cents

From that doc, all I got was a bunch of marketing wank. Similar to OE saying anything but their parts is bad or servicing by an outside shop is also bad. Bunch of nonsense in my opinion meant to get you to buy straight from them.

 

I will say there is some good in it, like watch out for fake castings or poorly rebuilt / poorly painted calipers. They state that they put it through multiple ovens to cure paint themselves so I'd say you won't be hardening or annealing the casting unless you are taking the oven to an obscene temperature. Research the paint being used, and use good sense. A caliper might see 200+ F on a track anyway.

Just my 2cents

Agreed. And, a home powdercoating setup from Eastwood is looking mighty affordable.

Found this on Brembo's site:

 

https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/5-reasons-not-to-use-repainted-brake-calipers-brembo

 

None of it really calls to a materials problem. If they truly thought it was a safety issue, it would be way up top in a big flashing banner.

 

There are various other people out there saying it's a bad idea, but most of their points have to do with shops doing it wrong, such as not removing the pistons or the various seals and o-rings, or getting powder coat in the pistons or passages, etc.. Seems to be a "bad at their job" thing more than anything else.

Up at the top it does have, "Painting brake calipers without complying with Brembo's strict industrial procedures may produce a dangerous, unreliable and even aesthetically inferior product." But what, "Brembos strict industrial procedures" are, I have no idea. They also end with, "We do not deny that there may be professionals who are able to execute this type of operation properly" - but I wonder if they'll name names lol. I sent an e-mail to inquire.

Looking at the picture with the sticker bombed caliper made me think... "can calipers be hydrodipped"? And it looks like people have, but I havent seen any long term use pics or reports. With hydro dipping you shouldnt even need to take it apart - just plug the holes, little tape and youre good to go. But they do recommend some sort of clear coat over them.

If one was to do a homebrew paint job I would almost recommend "ceramakote" over powdercoat.

Wouldn't the ceramakote temps be higher than the powder coat? If not, all else equal, will the CKote give as smooth a finish as PCoat? If yes, likely a tougher finish with CK vs PC but could be less flexible and prone to cracking with CK. and YMMV.

I'm not an expert - but a quick google shows CK at 150-180 and PC at 350-375. I dont know if thats one specific product, color, ect dependent.

Obviously the smoothness will depend on quality of application - just like most spray paints CK can be over applied, run, ect. (Im pretty sure its liquid and not powder) However the end result can be smooth as glass and tough as nails. I first seen it used on gun barrels and it does wear over time, but doesnt seem to flake, chip, crack, ect. Withstands heat and gun barrels do flex - they also are using it on engine internals like piston tops and valves and exhausts.

When I was planning to build my own PC oven, ISTR that I was shooting for a 250*F max output.

And, I guess I was thinking of CK as somewhat comparable Swaintech's White Lightning coating where it's put on in molten ceramic state and allowed to cool to .015in thick vs typical ceramic coatings which are about .002in thick.

ST WL is very rough and very hard, you really have to use a grinding wheel and attack it with great vigor and you'll hardly have made a minor scuff in the coating before you run out of time, wheels, and energy.

FWIW, any coating will crack if the metal substrate expansion rate is greater than the coating expansion rate. ST WL coating is rated at/above 3,000*F, but can still crack if the metal substate is expanding too rapidly.

[emoji38] ... I know the feeling. Been brutal up here lately. This week got better.

 

There's an easy brake upgrade for the B8 Audi series (A4/S4/allroad, maybe even A5/S5) where you can replace the front single pot (at least on my allroad) with a 4 pot from the Q5 3.0T. It has the same knuckle, I guess, and you just have to upsize the rotor. It's also the same part as the Porsche Macan and I ended up buying the Macan versions for less than half the price of the Q5 versions (who'd of thought?). We've been disassembling them so I can get them powder coated (they say PORSCHE on them ) and, damn, even brand new the pistons are a tight pull and took us some serious finagling to get out. Then we had to disassemble some S4 rear calipers I got cheap which were not nearly as painful because everything is screwed together. Going in for PC this week and then have to reassemble...

As for the LGT, looked at it, checked my fluids, topped off the usual, oil change this weekend, still gotta install that turbo heat shield.....

Scotty

Got down and retightened the bolt securing the downpipe to the transmission. Was getting a lot of rattling at off throttle and engine braking at times around that area and the bolt was pretty much all the way loose. Also tried to fix an exhaust leak at the mid/down pipe connection. Tried a double gasket with copper high temp gasket maker in between all surfaces. Gonna let it set overnight and try it out tomorrow.

Also installed the sedan rear tail light garnishes. I really like them in BSM silver as a contrast to the SWP white. I also have the silver exhaust garnishes, silver headlight garnishes, and silver Enkei NT03+M’s (On one side ) so the silver flows pretty well in my opinion. Ill get some pics tomorrow. Might even start a build thread as a couple people have been asking for one.

This weekend I found a new scratch on the rear bumper from one of the kids' bikes. It doesn't appear to be through the clear coat so hopefully I can clean it up. I'm surprised it took this long (5 years) to get a scratch from the kids, considering we have 5 of them now and they ride bikes like Tasmanian devils.

The car is also leaking coolant somewhere by the turbo. Not a ton, but enough is "venting to atmosphere" through the hood scoop that fellow drivers get a little curious... when they put their phones down long enough to notice.

This weekend I found a new scratch on the rear bumper from one of the kids' bikes. It doesn't appear to be through the clear coat so hopefully I can clean it up. I'm surprised it took this long (5 years) to get a scratch from the kids, considering we have 5 of them now and they ride bikes like Tasmanian devils.

 

The car is also leaking coolant somewhere by the turbo. Not a ton, but enough is "venting to atmosphere" through the hood scoop that fellow drivers get a little curious... when they put their phones down long enough to notice.

I would check the u-shaped coolant hose that has a heat wrap on it, it was almost toast when I did my refresh.

I had to drop the rear shock assemblies, and tighten the down the tophats a bit more. The dust covers were rattling over every bump.

And yes, the Bilstien upgrade is worth the money.

j.

Goodbye OBXT and thanks for all the parts and second wind for my LGT!

Oh yeah, and if you swap a dash, try to remember to drill out the rivets and pull your vin plate before someone hauls it off.

I only remembered 3 min before it left...

Great to see you have more room in your driveway now...or is that the in-laws driveway...?

Right now it's the in-law's driveway.

But seeing as we are probably going to buy the house from them, it'll be my driveway sometime in the future.

Goodbye OBXT and thanks for all the parts and second wind for my LGT!

 

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Oh yeah, and if you swap a dash, try to remember to drill out the rivets and pull your vin plate before someone hauls it off.

I only remembered 3 min before it left...

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License plates don't need to be turned in ?

 

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Nope, it was reported sold in TX and the plates weren't repurposed, so they are essentially done (plus they had just expired)