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Clutch Replacement advice


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You can get the OEM FW bolts. They'll be fine.

 

ok I will go to the subaru dealer this week most likely. I need to get a rear main seal and the seal for that little plate that is back there and perhaps the wrist pin plug seals too cause eh "I am already in there" lol

 

Max, I read your reviews of the 5 speed blast plates. Did you get the moore ones? I see these Kein ones that are a tad cheaper and look exactly like the older style Moore ones. The newer Moore ones are cast.... which I guess is good for weight, but I feel like the steel would hold up better. Any input?

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ok I will go to the subaru dealer this week most likely. I need to get a rear main seal and the seal for that little plate that is back there and perhaps the wrist pin plug seals too cause eh "I am already in there" lol

 

Max, I read your reviews of the 5 speed blast plates. Did you get the moore ones? I see these Kein ones that are a tad cheaper and look exactly like the older style Moore ones. The newer Moore ones are cast.... which I guess is good for weight, but I feel like the steel would hold up better. Any input?

 

There's another member that has ask me about the Kein plates. Seems the Morre Plates are currently out of production because of pandemic

 

He ordered the Kein one yesterday. They should work as well.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I would do the TSK snout repair kit at the same time.

 

 

I ran a Spec LWFW and STAGE2+ clutch for 6 years! Loved it but since i'm not racing my wagon anymore I decided to go with a OEM SMFW and Exedy stage 1, its much better for daily driving but I'll have more of an opinion once its broken in.

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I would do the TSK snout repair kit at the same time.

 

 

I ran a Spec LWFW and STAGE2+ clutch for 6 years! Loved it but since i'm not racing my wagon anymore I decided to go with a OEM SMFW and Exedy stage 1, its much better for daily driving but I'll have more of an opinion once its broken in.

 

Is there a way to tell if I need the TSK snount repair kit? I will say there is alot of chatter from the clutch very stiff pedal etc. So I guess I need to get my car apart and figure out what is going on in the first place. Will there be wear marks or something?

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If the snout is in good shape, a light coating of high temp grease on it and a new TOB will be fine. In 295,000 miles I have not had that kit on the snout.

 

Also a light coat of high temp grease on all the slip fit parts.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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You won't be able to tell if you need the snout repair until it's apart. Mine was fine at 150k and I have no reason to believe it's an issue now.

 

This will vary by dealer but the dealer I went to in Tampa actually kept snout kits on hand. And Motul fluids.

 

 

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my 05 was damaged when I replaced the clutch at 160,000km which is why I needed the kit.

 

 

Yea but my understanding is it's caused by your TOB getting messed up. Mine was OK and I put a new one on 25k ago so I assume it's good.

 

 

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I can hear my throwout bearing occasionally so that is not confidence inspiring, but I will get it apart either this weekend or next weekend and find out. I will probably post up some pictures if it is damaged for future reference for other members.
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Ok! I finally got the Transmission out. Man that was a bitch. For some reason the bellhousing got caught on the bottom corner of the turbo. That was a pain.

 

buuuuuut it is finally out. How can I tell if the clutch is still original? It definitely has the original flywheel bolts. There was a few numbers on the clutch disc and the pressure plate. I will try to get some pictures up to show the Transmission snout. To me it looks fine, but I am not sure. I also have a perplexing leak on the transmission. There is leaking fluid on the top middle half. Basically where the part that the center diff is housed and where the rest of the transmission meet.

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62769185116__6B7A8286-0C82-442F-8158-E14F4A5098A2.thumb.jpg.1353d89784940e9be1e95b431cf037d9.jpg

 

IMG_1936.thumb.jpg.a3c1fe5189bb981272cbb02a4f8c56a1.jpg

 

IMG_1935.thumb.jpg.6e5e0986dd3babc50902c48e498b47a8.jpg

 

IMG_1939.thumb.jpg.2f33250f04875ea8c43a607380c7f5fe.jpg

 

IMG_1940.thumb.jpg.c7bf3b5067f157874faacf31805d07cb.jpg

 

 

I tried to look up the numbers on the disc, but I cannot find anything on it. For some reason I cannot upload the picture of the pressure plate, but it is very worn where it gets pressed by the throwout bearing.

Edited by boneskid1
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clean the snout with some brake cleaner or something, and check to see how much wear there is, hard to see if its worn or just scratched from that picture and with all the dirt. Anything with a straight edge will give you an idea.
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yea, the crack on the front is normal, but on the top no bueno, that seam is only going to get worse. Hard to say, all the snouts have that seam in the front, not sure how it works when it shows the seam on the bearing surface. I would get the kit for peace of mind. Edited by Tehnation
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I will clean it off and check again. I may just buy it as a piece of mind. Does it have to be welded or glued on? or is it just a slip fit thing?

 

Thanks for all the help so far by the way. Definitely helps with the input.

 

EDIT: ok had someone closer to the car clean it and look and it was gouged front to back. So I will get the snout kit.

 

Is the clutch fork upgrade necessary? mine does not look cracked or anything so it should be fine I assume.

Edited by boneskid1
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