What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Finally getting around to getting my gen 7 Fortune coils on. Fronts only took 30 mins once the car was in the air. Had these sitting around since January. Been having too much fun restoring and rally crossing my ST205.

You should bring that thing to the utah national challenge. You can run against the mod all national champ.

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I started installing my folding mirrors that I've had for like 2 years. The set I bought isn't heated so I'm swapping my heated glass over. I also bought some 10 pin connectors that use the same pins as oem to swap over the wires easily.

Question for those that have done this, do you have tips on getting the two new wires through the door? I hate cutting holes. I'm not sure if I hate cutting holes more than removing the rubber covers and fishing wires through though, lol.

I'll raise you a question. What is the part number (or link) for the connector?

As for fishing the wire through to most OE clean way: unbolt the door stop from the body of the car, that holds the door in place at different angles. In the foot wells, take out the trim under the dash exposing the door harness connector to undo it. Then pull the rubber grommets for the conduit the wire goes through. unwrap the electrical tape of the two halves. Fish the new wire through. That is a simplified version but gets the basic idea. Door trim removal is also necessary.

I'll raise you a question. What is the part number (or link) for the connector?

As for fishing the wire through to most OE clean way: unbolt the door stop from the body of the car, that holds the door in place at different angles. In the foot wells, take out the trim under the dash exposing the door harness connector to undo it. Then pull the rubber grommets for the conduit the wire goes through. unwrap the electrical tape of the two halves. Fish the new wire through. That is a simplified version but gets the basic idea. Door trim removal is also necessary.

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/040_Connectors/040_connectors.html

...Been having too much fun restoring and rally crossing my ST205.

I heard that drivetrain bolts right up to a Rover Mini:hide:

2.0 turbo with 250hp in 1994. It goes pretty good. Be super fun in a mini.

New coils with the swift springs ride pretty nice. Raised the back up about a 1/2” over previous set. Needs to come down a little and realignment but so far pretty happy. Booze, old coils are boxed up ready to go.

Tried removing the wagon's rear gate garnish today and broke nearly every plastic tab I could. Many of the nuts were rusted enough that the plastic holding the captive bolts broke. Also found that one of the holes holding the crossmember is cross-threaded, which probably accounts for the slight ticking I hear when I turn the wheel on account of the bolt being slightly loose. It was always cross-threaded since I got the car but was just reminded of it today. Does anyone have experience with threaded inserts? Is this something I can under take myself or should I have a shop do it?

Yeesh.

Tried removing the wagon's rear gate garnish today and broke nearly every plastic tab I could. Many of the nuts were rusted enough that the plastic holding the captive bolts broke. Also found that one of the holes holding the crossmember is cross-threaded, which probably accounts for the slight ticking I hear when I turn the wheel on account of the bolt being slightly loose. It was always cross-threaded since I got the car but was just reminded of it today. Does anyone have experience with threaded inserts? Is this something I can under take myself or should I have a shop do it?

 

Yeesh.

I started installing my folding mirrors that I've had for like 2 years. The set I bought isn't heated so I'm swapping my heated glass over. I also bought some 10 pin connectors that use the same pins as oem to swap over the wires easily.

Question for those that have done this, do you have tips on getting the two new wires through the door? I hate cutting holes. I'm not sure if I hate cutting holes more than removing the rubber covers and fishing wires through though, lol.

I undid the rubber hose the wires are going through on the door and fished the wires through it using a hanger wire. Absolutely get the wire guide gel from Home Depot or Lowes, its made for getting wires through conduits.

Quick poll. Would anyone be interested in a device that can control things (exhaust cutouts or whatever) based on SI-Drive state?

I had someone ask me about doing such, and I already have something sitting around that can kind of do it with diffrent code. The question is do I just hand make one for the person, or would there be enough demand to do a real production run of them? It works based on CANBUS messages the computers send out, so it can be programed to do all sorts of stuff. IC sprayer at full throttle, overboost alarms, aux fans, boost cut during AT shift, whatever. And the 05-06 cars do have a canbus that's fairly trivial to tap into, it just doesn't have SI-drive or it exposed at the ODB-II port.

I think a new crossmember from subaru, or a junkyard, thouldn't be too much. But i don't think the welded nut is big enough for a helicoil.

My bad for the confusion. The crossmember bolts up to the subframe, IIRC, which has the bolt holes. I think it's an M10 and I have a tap lying around from a brake job. I'm going to try that first.

In other news, replacing my alternator eliminated the brake and battery lights in the instrument cluster. The new Bosch ones sounds a littler louder than the old (Denso?) one.

Quick poll. Would anyone be interested in a device that can control things (exhaust cutouts or whatever) based on SI-Drive state?

 

I has someone ask me about doing such, and I already have something sitting around that can kind of do it with diffrent code. The question is do I just hand make one for the person, or would there be enough demand to do a real production run of them? It works based on CANBUS messages the computers send out, so it can be programed to do all sorts of stuff. IC sprayer at full throttle, overboost alarms, aux fans, doost cut during AT shift, whatever. And the 05-06 cars do have a canbus that's fairly trivial to tap into, it just doesn't have SI-drive or it exposed at the ODB-II port.

This would be awesome! But I can't think of anything on this car that I would trigger. My other car has an exhaust cutout, and that would be really cool to trigger it with the S# switch. But that car doesn't have SI-Drive. It would be really cool if someone had a Tein EDFC system and an exhaust cutout all triggered from the S# button on the steering wheel!

I would encourage you to make it, but unfortunately I don't think I would be a customer.

Tried removing the wagon's rear gate garnish today and broke nearly every plastic tab I could. Many of the nuts were rusted enough that the plastic holding the captive bolts broke. Also found that one of the holes holding the crossmember is cross-threaded, which probably accounts for the slight ticking I hear when I turn the wheel on account of the bolt being slightly loose. It was always cross-threaded since I got the car but was just reminded of it today. Does anyone have experience with threaded inserts? Is this something I can under take myself or should I have a shop do it?

 

Yeesh.

FWIW, When my Body Shop buddy took the rear subframe down to replace the gas tank, they told me one of the nuts in the chassis spun, they had to cut a hole in the frame rail, replace the nut and patch the hole. Not something I would want to do in the driveway...

Took the wagon autocrossing yesterday. Obviously very different from my old BRZ. I knew going in the cooper all-seasons that are on this thing would be garbage, but damn. They SCREAM when you ask them to do anything. But, I've got to wear them down to justify getting a better set to the SO.

Ran into some trouble though, it threw a CEL as I was gridding for the second set of runs. P0171. Turns out the dreaded blue T fitting had come out of it's home. Nothing like having to remove a hot intercooler to get to it. Twice. Because it popped out again sometime during those last runs. Time to start bringing zip ties with me.

Tried removing the wagon's rear gate garnish today and broke nearly every plastic tab I could. Many of the nuts were rusted enough that the plastic holding the captive bolts broke. Also found that one of the holes holding the crossmember is cross-threaded, which probably accounts for the slight ticking I hear when I turn the wheel on account of the bolt being slightly loose. It was always cross-threaded since I got the car but was just reminded of it today. Does anyone have experience with threaded inserts? Is this something I can under take myself or should I have a shop do it?

 

Yeesh.

The inserted studs being rusted is what is stopping me from doing any of that to my tailgate. As for the cross threading...I am still a little lost on what you are talking about...Is this the thing that connect the back two mounting points of the rear subframe and also mounts to the spare tire well? Any way, I had trani cross member mount on my 96 subaru strip out (M12). I tapped it out to 1/2-20. It left plenty of meat on the captive nut compared to trying M13. Going up a size in metric from M10 to M11 might not only be more expensive than the next size up in standard but also might take off too much meat on the nut.

Second airbag replacement done on my wagon today, and again it looks like they did an excellent job. Nothing noticeable as far as damage, took 2-3 hours, and everything was nicely wiped down. Service writer complimented how rarely they see them in such good condition.

Have been busy, but got some exciting stuff coming together soon.

-Full f&r Brembo conversion parts are all here.

-08 front end swap ready except paint.

-Gex's FA coils in route as of this AM and ready to bolt on.

Just gotta get through some early Sept work projects and the weather will cool down nicely to wrench.

_____

My Forester has new 17x9 Rota Titan wheels on the way, losing 5lbs per corner there, which I'm excited for. All new KYB struts and Mann lowering springs are in my foyer and ready to go. Then brakes are next, working on rebuilding an extra set of LGT calipers to see if they can fit.

Took the wagon autocrossing yesterday. Obviously very different from my old BRZ. I knew going in the cooper all-seasons that are on this thing would be garbage, but damn. They SCREAM when you ask them to do anything. But, I've got to wear them down to justify getting a better set to the SO.

 

 

Ran into some trouble though, it threw a CEL as I was gridding for the second set of runs. P0171. Turns out the dreaded blue T fitting had come out of it's home. Nothing like having to remove a hot intercooler to get to it. Twice. Because it popped out again sometime during those last runs. Time to start bringing zip ties with me.

Having that happen once, let alone twice, would have me ordering some turkey lord tees (company 23 now sells them)

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Most of us just take the short cut and change the oil without removing the rear sway bar. In fact it doesn't need to be removed to do a lot of repair and maintenance tasks on these cars.

Except the cabin filter on the 05s. It needs to come off for that.

Having that happen once, let alone twice, would have me ordering some turkey lord tees (company 23 now sells them)

 

 

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Thanks, ordered it. Don't want to have to deal with that ever again.

Thanks, ordered it. Don't want to have to deal with that ever again.

taking your wagon to the track pretty much guarantees something is going to break every time. You could be the lucky one who doesn't have issues, but historically silver wagons break down on track more than any other color.