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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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with this scenario - when it was running for a short time and then no compression, could it be that valve got stuck open if the spring isn't pushing it back to close? Borescope in the cyl #1 should tell you.

 

 

Sucks for sure.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Dude that blows. I agree with the above - leakdown, scope and check clearances. All you can do before you have to pull it apart.

 

No way it's a backward head gasket. You'd have promptly chugged all your oil onto the floor. Ask me how I know.

 

On the bright side, all your stuff's fresh so this isn't as big a hit as YNANSB.

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is it too soon for...Hicksta'd that, didya?

 

I feel for you, all that then this.

 

I probably wouldn't be saying this if it were the case, but I think I'd feel better if I did in fact Hicksta this. At least I'd have closure in a sense of "well I cut this corner, and this is what I get." But... I can't think of anything I screwed up.

 

Two memes that sum up my car-life reality at the moment:

 

9bd0cd628d713412c6af86e7ddf51e26.jpg

 

febd21093da19ee5b15650c31ca596e132b9bc31c04e87ca962aa2cfde807522_1.jpg

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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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I rewired my fuel pump control module from the Original Turkeylord method to the Underdog method because I had battery draw issues. Boy am I glad I did. I haven't driven the car in at least 5 days and when I pulled the connector off the relay, it was very warm, as was the relay.

f01598a55a858437c42bbbe903d180e8.jpge7c2fbeb7bce4f221f8af709254358d4.jpg

Edited by rhino6303
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I rewired my fuel pump control module from the Original Turkeylord method to the Underdog method because I had battery draw issues. Boy am I glad I did. I haven't driven the car in at least 5 days and when I pulled the connector off the relay, it was very warm, as was the relay.

f01598a55a858437c42bbbe903d180e8.jpge7c2fbeb7bce4f221f8af709254358d4.jpg

 

where'd you find this write up?

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None of the auto stores near me had a leakdown tester for loan. Instead, I just pulled the Schrader valve out of my compression tester and used that since I don't really care about the actual leakdown number. Sure enough, it seems like one of the #1 intake valves are stuck open. I'm going to pull the intake manifold first to see if something like a valve guide dropped (which would be super disappointing for heads with barely 100mi on them since rebuild, which included new valve guides, valve seals and lapping).

 

 

Questions I have now: Is it possible the intake AVCS sprocket is screwed up? If so, is it possible that this could have caused a piston/valve collision (worried about bent valves)? Timing belt is still on fine, so I'm sure I wouldn't have bent a valve due to mismatched timing. I wasn't keeping track of cam advance during initial drive, so I'm not sure if the cam advance was working correctly. Not entirely on board with this idea though, since I'd expect issues with cyl3 as well if this were the case.

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Whelp. It's official. Boxkitty is right and I think I've just earned another Hicksta badge. Someone should come by and relieve me of all my wrenches so I never work on a vehicle again :spin:

 

Update later tonight, but in good news, the car is running and I've done a quick 10-15mi initial break-in drive with no events, so I think things are looking good!

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Whelp. It's official. Boxkitty is right and I think I've just earned another Hicksta badge. Someone should come by and relieve me of all my wrenches so I never work on a vehicle again :spin:

 

Update later tonight, but in good news, the car is running and I've done a quick 10-15mi initial break-in drive with no events, so I think things are looking good!

That's good news for sure. You better share the Hicksta'd goodness.

 

On a separate note. Anyone ever felt their FPCM after a spirited drive? They get HOT. I assumed they do based on the fact they have a decent sized heatsink but I was shocked at the heat. It was warm enough that I'd be concerned about the foam piece that surrounds it.

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So not sure how exactly, but this was the cause of my issues:

 

2ualavVl.jpg

 

vQZfCv5l.jpg

 

Not sure how this happened... shop towels immediately went into the intake ports when I removed the intake manifold, and stayed there until I went to re-assemble it. Also wasn't missing any nuts assembling anything else, though I do have spares from other parts. This nut looks like one of the flange nuts that is used near the turbo (to UP/DP, etc).

 

Hoping there's no long-term damage to the valve.

 

Lessons learned:

1. Always do a thorough check of "important" cavities, even if I think they're clear.

2. I'm f#*?!ng lucky (so far)

3. I'm an idiot! :spin:

Edited by solidxsnake
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Dude you are super lucky, glad it wasn't a major failure (of the mechanical type, anyhow). I managed to get a washer into a cylinder on a build, same as you with rags stuffed in all the ports and taped over from the getgo, with no missing fasteners when putting things together. Shit happens. Edited by awfulwaffle
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Well I finally got around to pulling the double din out of the 05 gt and into the spec b, loving the new look with the CF trim now. I'll have to redo the shifter trim to match to finish the look.

106500539_10163910066070096_5598784090557072629_o.thumb.jpg.390a94769a33d8baefaa44c48668e0e8.jpg

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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yep, you got lucky.

 

Can you see the seat area on the valve ? is it ok ?

 

 

Looked okay to me. The nut was too big to fall any further down the port than it did. Cold compression test on this cylinder measured about 10-15psi higher than the other 3 cylinders, interestingly enough.

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Had fuel trims pull up to the +10-15% range after a long cruise on the highway. No miss, no roughness though. Thought, great, something melted or cracked. Boost leak tested the car, held 15 psi. Replaced all the vacuum lines anyways, because I've had a few of the silicone ones I used when putting the motor together randomly split a couple of times. No change, though I didn't expect one. Swapped spare MAF, no change. Factory O2 matches wideband, so not that.

 

This might be a lesson in not installing used injectors without cleaning/testing. Got them from a good friend with only 10k on them so installed them as-is, but it's possible one of them has decided to start dying, especially having recently run a few tanks of E85 through the car working on a tune.

 

Trying to decide whether I should track down another set of ID1000s, eat the downtime and just have these serviced, or get into a set of newer ID1050x. On the last option, any of you Opensource guys find a solution for the lack of min pulse width tables in our ROMs?

 

Open to other suggestions as well!

 

This car makes me feel like

 

135891.jpg

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So not sure how exactly, but this was the cause of my issues:

 

 

 

Not sure how this happened... shop towels immediately went into the intake ports when I removed the intake manifold, and stayed there until I went to re-assemble it. Also wasn't missing any nuts assembling anything else, though I do have spares from other parts. This nut looks like one of the flange nuts that is used near the turbo (to UP/DP, etc).

 

Hoping there's no long-term damage to the valve.

 

Lessons learned:

1. Always do a thorough check of "important" cavities, even if I think they're clear.

2. I'm f#*?!ng lucky (so far)

3. I'm an idiot! :spin:

 

Good thing your car doesnt like to swallow the NUT lol. Hope it all goes well and healthy :cool:

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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On the last option, any of you Opensource guys find a solution for the lack of min pulse width tables in our ROMs?

 

Do you mean your ROM doesn't have that at all? Or it's just not defined? I normally define my own tables, but if you have your CALID and post on the RR forums, likely you'll get someone to define them for you. I haven't done much fueling tuning, so I'm not really sure what tables are typical for the Denso ECUs.

 

 

Good thing your car doesnt like to swallow the NUT lol. Hope it all goes well and healthy :cool:

 

:dm::dm::dm:

Edited by solidxsnake
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