pulling motor, now what

I'm in need of a clutch and turbo, so why not just pull the motor and fix some oil leaks and stuff

 

In the process of maxing out the stock components so will be upgrading turbo, TMIC, and running e85

While I have the motor out is there any maintenance or trouble areas I should look at or address? I was thinking I might want to do head studs but idk if that would be worth it as I want to stay with a conservative tune and try to keep somewhat of a reliable power level.

 

What are the stock safely limits???

 

Mods as of now are

Cold air intake

Catless Downpipe

EBCS

ACP pro tune.

 

I'll be adding

18g

TMIC

TGV deletes

Turbo inlet

1050cc injectors

340lph pump

e85

I always recommend ARP head studs for these engines.

 

you don't need a CAI, the one the car came with is great.

 

330whp is safe for a DD.

 

I'm at 280whp on stock fueling with a vf52 at 21psi. Been that way since Aug 2011 and 122,000 miles ago on the vf52. I did put a ej257 in 110,000 miles ago because I planned to keep the car. It has ARP head studs.

 

You can look through my click here link in my sig for ideas. It has kind of become a lesson in how to do it right the first time.

 

I'm not big on the E85 thing, as far as I know, that's not much around where I live.

 

My lesson to you is, keep it simple.

ARP head studs are the single best thing you can do to the shortblock. Not a guarantee of head gaskets lasting, but far better than the standard stretch bolts. I would never build a Subaru engine, turbo or otherwise, without them.

I always recommend ARP head studs for these engines.

 

you don't need a CAI, the one the car came with is great.

 

330whp is safe for a DD.

 

I'm at 280whp on stock fueling with a vf52 at 21psi. Been that way since Aug 2011 and 122,000 miles ago on the vf52. I did put a ej257 in 110,000 miles ago because I planned to keep the car. It has ARP head studs.

 

You can look through my click here link in my sig for ideas. It has kind of become a lesson in how to do it right the first time.

 

I'm not big on the E85 thing, as far as I know, that's not much around where I live.

 

My lesson to you is, keep it simple.

 

Yeah I was thinking 300whp as my cap. I already have the intake so use what I have (at least turbo sounds are nice )

28pages its going to be a busy night

Thanks for the input, I'll look into getting head studs. Should be safe to swap one bolt at a time vs removing heads to do?

 

As for oil, is there anything else to do other then the screens? stock feed locations and lines are fine? How about oil pump and pick-up tube I've heard talk about?

You can look through my click here link in my sig for ideas. It has kind of become a lesson in how to do it right the first time.

 

Just finished reading through your thread

You mentioned most Subaru owners tune through only 2 tuners. I'm sure Mike at Tuning Alliance is 1st choice, who would be 2nd?

I would not pull the bolts one at a time and replace with the studs. If you have the engine out, and looking for 300 awhp, then I would remove the heads and have them at least shaved and pressure checked, install the studs and use new Subaru OE gaskets. This way, you know everything will be good to go.

Just finished reading through your thread

You mentioned most Subaru owners tune through only 2 tuners. I'm sure Mike at Tuning Alliance is 1st choice, who would be 2nd?

 

That would be Dave, you can get him here,

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-interest-cobb-flex-fuel-legacy-gt-platform-please-speak-248347.html

 

I also see "m sprank" a well respected member has someone in CA. you could PM him if he's close to you.

 

Giving us the town/state you live in could help too.

 

Mike, is easy to get on instant messenger. he has a really job and travels for it from time to time.

With e85 you should not really see much detonation if any at all. So I would not worry about cylinder pressures lifting heads.

 

Personally I'd test the block (leak down, compression) and if its all good I'd leave the heads on and not bother with head studs until it really blows a gasket.

 

Its not that hard to pull the engine if that happens in the future .

 

This is what I would do if doing all the work myself.

If you're paying someone to pull the motor it's a different story.

I'm located in St. Cloud, MN

 

Can a leak down and compression test be performed with the motor out? Just bolt the starter on and let er buck on the stand

Give the guys at Grimmspeed a call in Minneapolis, not only do the make top shelf parts for our cars but I’m sure they would share a wealth of local tuner knowledge.

E85 on an 18G is asking for trouble on stock internals. That's definitely in the "plan on a short block" territory.

E85 on an 18G is asking for trouble on stock internals. That's definitely in the "plan on a short block" territory.

 

Wouldn't e85 provide a safer tune at higher power levels with less chance of detonation and knock? The tuner would dial the power down to be in the "safe zone"?

More power, more boost. Less power, less boost without getting all technical

I'm in need of a clutch and turbo

 

How did you determine that you need a new turbo? Is the car exhibiting any symptoms?

How did you determine that you need a new turbo? Is the car exhibiting any symptoms?

 

Turbo has about 90k on it. seals are bad and blowing oil/smoke out exhaust. Car also fluctuates in power and sometimes doesn't produce the set psi

E85 brings its own can or worms. Yes it can be run with almost no chance of knock, but this leads to other issues.

 

 

 

So much advance timing can be run that tuners melt valves and pistons. So much boost pressure can be run that custom head gaskets and 1/2"' head studs cant hold.

 

 

 

E85 has less energy per ounce, requires pre-heating to ignite on cold start when ambient is low, does not lubricate like gasoline, leaves a residue in the injectors that "gums" them up and more.

 

 

 

I am a fan, and user. But like all modding, it requires more from you.

E85 brings its own can or worms. Yes it can be run with almost no chance of knock, but this leads to other issues.

 

 

 

So much advance timing can be run that tuners melt valves and pistons. So much boost pressure can be run that custom head gaskets and 1/2"' head studs cant hold.

 

 

 

E85 has less energy per ounce, requires pre-heating to ignite on cold start when ambient is low, does not lubricate like gasoline, leaves a residue in the injectors that "gums" them up and more.

 

 

 

I am a fan, and user. But like all modding, it requires more from you.

 

I was messaging you earlier today on Facebook about what to do. With not wanting to go above 300whp and limited funds for proper supporting mods or replacing the motor I'm still unsure if this is the right route to go. Local shop told me this turbo is not street friendly and would be better off with a vf52

18G is street friendly, but the VF52 will definitely be more usable, especially if you're only shooting for 300whp.

18gxtr is very street friendly and an absolute stop light assassin on E85.

 

VF52 will produce faster spool Nd gobs of low end torque. But will fall on its face around 5000rpm.

 

If not building the motor and converting to flex fuel I would go VF52.

That's what I don't like about the vf46 right now. It hits in hard down low in 2nd and 3rd but at higher rpm and freeway speeds I got nothing.

That's why originally was going with e85 so I could run a larger turbo safer

I do enjoy my vf52. I don't feel it falls off after 5000rpm as bad as you make it sound.

 

the car does the 65mph to 80+ pretty quickly. If I want it faster I just downshift to 4th gear.

 

Granted it won't break the tires loose in the top end of 4th gear like the Civic with a GT35R would. But it still pulls pretty good.

 

I'm very happy with the vf52, it has over 122,000 miles on it now.

 

 

 

On the drive into work today, I got to thinking about this topic, how much time do you really spend above 5000rpm ? The mid range power is what makes these cars fun. It's what you use the most.

 

 

Thinking more about it, Isn't it more stress on the engine the more your in boost, isn't it even greater at higher rpm's. I guess it comes down to what you want, a reliable fun DD or a weekend high HP car that your afraid to take on a long drive.

Edited December 12, 2018 by Max Capacity

Its fun to pull to redline with no taper in boost. On bigger turbo cars you spend all your time in the 5k+ range. You dont hit full boost until then. With a DOM 1.5XTR on e85 (stock long block) I can make an STi break loose in a 6 to 5 shift. 6 to 4 and you just might poo yourself.

 

 

An 18gxtr is still nice on pump gas. You just dont reach as much boost (or get there as quickly). But you can hit full boost (22psi) around 3500rpm.

 

 

I dont have anything against a VF52. It works for plenty of people. I just really appreciate not tapering and hitting pre4k.

What size injectors minimum would be recommended for the AVO420 turbo if I run pump instead of e85 on stock motor? Would I be able to safely run around that 300whp with that and pump?

Thinking more about it, Isn't it more stress on the engine the more your in boost, isn't it even greater at higher rpm's.

 

Hi boost at low rpm will have higher cylinder pressures. The additional time (spinning slower rpm) with the intake valves open allows more air in the cylinder and create higher cylinder pressures. ie 20psi at 300rpm will have noticeably higher cylinder pressure than 20psi at 6000rpm.

What size injectors minimum would be recommended for the AVO420 turbo if I run pump instead of e85 on stock motor? Would I be able to safely run around that 300whp with that and pump?

 

 

Have not seen that turbo in probably 10 years. No one runs an AVO turbo anymore. Not too many people ran them when AVO was a "popular" brand.