pulling motor, now what

Have not seen that turbo in probably 10 years. No one runs an AVO turbo anymore. Not too many people ran them when AVO was a "popular" brand.

well crap, wish I was on the forum before I bought all this junk

Heres an old thread. Turbo seemed to work for the owner, but he was selling it.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/avo-420-turbo-90650.html

Just got done pulling intercooler and downpipe. No oil in downpipe, and just a little in intercooler. Checked shaft play on turbo... Nothing....

Now to perform leak down test ugh

Finally got the motor pulled and did a leak down test.

Drivers side, front 2% rear 9%

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0809.jpg

Passenger side, front 2% rear 7%

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0808.jpg

Turbo inlet

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0815.jpg

Turbo intake

Turbo Exhaust

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0817_1.jpg

Throttle Body

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0811.jpg

Intake Runners

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0818.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0820.jpg

Obviously oil is coming in through the turbo intake, PCV?

With both front cylinders being only 2% and both rears being ~8% Does this seems normal? I could see 1 cylinder being off and knowing that is the cause, but both rears almost identical. Does this implement a tear down and rebuild?

The turbo once off does have the slightest movement but I feel not enough to say its bad

Could bad intake manifold gaskets coupled with a bad pcv cause that much build up?

I know they revised them with taller gaskets which I would definitely recommend using. Those leakdown numbers seem fine.

Both sides of the turbo look OK. Neither is wet or has hit, so if it has minimal sideplay, it should be fine. Throttle body is not wet, and plugs look fine. PCV looks like your problem with the oil on the intake runners on the outside. Probably blowing out the vent hoses on the valve covers. When you look at the vent hoses, I would bet they are cracked where they go onto the valve cover nipples. Common problem.

Leakdown numbers are OK-not great, but OK. When you put it back in, run a 1/2 quart of transmission fluid in with new cheap oil/filter and new PCV and run it for about 1/2 hour-not driving. Burp the system coolant during this time and make sure you have no leaks anywhere. Drain and refill with fresh oil/filter and it will probably clean up.

ARP head studs are the single best thing you can do to the shortblock. Not a guarantee of head gaskets lasting, but far better than the standard stretch bolts. I would never build a Subaru engine, turbo or otherwise, without them.

Would it still be recommended to remove heads and put the studs in while motor is out? It is more work that at this point mat not be needed but might be worth it overall

What's the best way of cleaning up all this oil residue, brake or carb clean or other solvent?

Should the heads and valves be fine if left alone?

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0823.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0824.jpg

Intake runners and TB inlet, TB

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0830.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0829.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0831.jpg

TGV's

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0825.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x113/KRYPTO_album/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0826.jpg

I think you know what we're going to say.

Have the heads rebuilt and install with ARP head studs. You need to decide if you plan to keep the car ? If done right, it will give you years of pleasure.

Show the machine shop these pictures. install a new PCV.

I think you have read through my click here link in my sig.

What's the best way of cleaning up all this oil residue, brake or carb clean or other solvent?

I'd go with wd40 and scotch Brite.

I think you know what we're going to say.

 

Have the heads rebuilt and install with ARP head studs. You need to decide if you plan to keep the car ? If done right, it will give you years of pleasure.

 

Show the machine shop these pictures. install a new PCV.

 

I think you have read through my click here link in my sig.

Contacted local machine shop that has done Subaru and other import motors from mild to wild. Will be dropping off motor Monday.

I'm now debating if I should put in a set of forged pistons or leave the stock ones in.

If I go with Forged whats good and whats bad? any brand better then others or better with piston slap?

Stock is fine for normal HP goals, under 400+.

It's all in the tune.

m sprank knows which pistons are best. PM him if you feel the need to go that way.

The are post in here about which is best, but if you ask him, see if he can get them for you.

I really enjoy starting my ej257 and not hearing any odd noises. When I had the timing belt replaced, the mechanic mentioned how quiet that engine is for a Subaru. He also has Subaru's.

I probably would never chance using stock pistons for 400whp and especially not stock rods for 400wtq.

For a safe daily driver, some 4032 forged pistons are a great choice. Stronger than cast without high expansion rates like 2618 so less slap.

You really don't need that kind of HP in these cars, 350whp is more then enough.

Just looked back and saw in post 4, 300whp is your goal. You'll be fine with stock parts. If my wagon was tuned on other than the Mustang dyno, it would show 300whp. The car is a blast to drive and has plenty of power in 2nd and 3rd gears for passing cars.

With all your parts (post 1) you could have 325whp pretty easy.

So after 6mnths the motor is finally getting put back together and into car. I sold all my upgraded turbo and fuel stuff and will be sticking with the stock vf46 that was in it (as the turbo wasn't the issue)

I will however be putting in the tgv deletes and air pump delete.

I'm sure I'll need to retune for those removals and will need to install a wideband for logging and etune.

How do I install the wideband and connect it to the AP for datalogging?

My DP has a o2 port right behind the turbo, would that be efficient as location and leave the factory o2 in place and connected farther down the DP?

Thanks

PM "covertrussian" with that question or he may have talked about it in his thread.

didn't find anything in his thread or other threads he has done. Did find the evap removal and will be doing that.

I'll have to message him or cryo on the wideband datalogging.

I'm pretty sure I'll have cryo retune car with etune

One of them should be able to help. I see you got the point.

There are a few members here that really know these cars well and have a great Engineering mind.

So after 6mnths the motor is finally getting put back together and into car. I sold all my upgraded turbo and fuel stuff and will be sticking with the stock vf46 that was in it (as the turbo wasn't the issue)

 

I will however be putting in the tgv deletes and air pump delete.

I'm sure I'll need to retune for those removals and will need to install a wideband for logging and etune.

How do I install the wideband and connect it to the AP for datalogging?

My DP has a o2 port right behind the turbo, would that be efficient as location and leave the factory o2 in place and connected farther down the DP?

 

Thanks

Yes that’s the port for the wideband, right behind the turbo.....you’ll get the most accurate readings there

Multiple manufacturers designed downpipes with that port for the Wideband.

I’ve never had an issue.

That’s what I should have said.