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Suspension upgrade


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I think I'm on the verge of finally doing the suspension on the GT. I have the list of parts recommended by Gteaser, but am still on the fence about lowering or keeping it stock height with 1" spacers (already have Eibach springs). Also, if I lower it, will I need to get adjustable lower arms? If so, I was thinking about going with these:

 

Mevotech ($245.58 pair)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6556212&cc=1503997&jsn=2152

 

Moog ($177.78 pair)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8439484&cc=1503997&jsn=2150

 

 

Godspeed ($155 pair) - Look almost identical to Megan except color

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-God-Speed-Adjustable-Camber-Rear-Camber-Control-Arms-Outback-Legacy-10-17/153206600289?fits=Year%3A2011%7CModel%3ALegacy%7CMake%3ASubaru&epid=1185676111&hash=item23abd33261:g:QDIAAOSw53hbtvMN

 

I don't think it is worth it to spend a ton on these for the high-performance ones.

Edited by Falcor
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The SPCs and the Whitelines are the typical go-to's for bang for your buck function (they're actually stamped from the same mold). I'd recommend SPCs over the Whitelines (which I have) from personal experience just because they Whitelines use an eccentric bolt at the lead end that makes ever removing it (to add bracing pieces at that point for instance) a bit more complicated because it will require a re-alignment after that. To my knowledge, SPC's are the same metal stamping just without the eccentric bolt, so you'll still get the camber adjustability with a bit more simplicity.

 

Stay the hell away from the Godspeeds. Mevotechs are more expensive than both Whiteline and SPC.

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I was going through Gteaser's list, and are all these parts necessary if I'm doing all the work myself?

 

Front Top Hats

Front Strut Spacer (dome washer)

Front Upper Spring Seat

Front Dust Cover and bump stop

 

 

Rear Top Hat

Rear Rubber Seat (isolator)

Rear Dust Cover and Bump Stop

 

Basically, can I reuse the parts already in the strut assembly?

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comes down to an inspection--how's the bearing on the top hats? probably worn, but if not and you don't mind going back in in a couple years and changing em when they *are* worn, you can reuse. Same with the spring seat, dust cover and bump stop. if they're in good condition they can be reused, but in a couple years they may need to be replaced. considering rock auto has the dust cover and bump stops for $10-12/side, they're cheap enough just to call it a sunk cost so you can save yourself a couple hours and possibly another new set of struts a couple years down the line.
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Yeah those parts sound right. Although replacing tophats IMO just get OEM replacements from autozone/rockauto etc... would be good.

 

There is a bearing in the tophats that get tired with age as well as the rubber around it may be cracked.

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I was just hoping to save money somewhere. As of right now, here are my options:

 

Koni/Eibach (includes new donor front struts)- $1152.08

Cusco/Eibach - $1088.49

13-14 KYB/Eibach - $723.92

Monroe Quick-Strut (swap Eibach Springs) - $582.94

 

This does not include the price of the Eibach's since they have been sitting in my garage for almost a year.

 

That's with all new parts including the adjustable rear arms.

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anecdotal, but the two times i've used monroe quick-struts (2001 outback and 2009 civic), they were terrible, just poorly dampened and in the case of the outback were deadskies again after 40k miles. the civic's aren't dead yet(around 50k), but they squeak and make a ton of other noise. I'd recommend against them if possible.

 

and as aphex has said, auto parts store top hats are generally fine, though some are just as if not more expensive than OE. I've had good luck with napa's general suspension stuff in the past(including a couple top hats on various vehicles) if you've got them around.

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I recall I paid less than $700 for the koni setup from tire rack. I did change my top hats, but I wouldn't say that is an absolute must. And those are the only parts in the assembly that wear out, the bumpstops will have to be changed or cut down depending on the location, front or rear. One set is reused but cut down.

 

Personally I would try then with the drop first. I dont think your camber will be that far off that you will hurt anything.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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If your staying with a 0 to 1" drop, you don't need the adjustable rear control arms, I don't have them and I'm lowered 1.25" with no camber issues, rear sits at right about -2*....perfect!

 

You don't need the upper front spring seats if you're taking apart your stock stuff to pilfer from. You can also reuse your stock rear tophats, and all 4 bump stops and dust covers.

 

Stay the hell away from the Monroe Quick Struts! Please.

 

You should be able to get the Koni's for about $750 for all 4. Just reuse your stock struts for donors.

Edited by GTEASER
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I would get the rear arms. I wanted to save money like you and didnt get them when I lowered with coilovers. The issue I ran into is that rear camber tends to be mismatched from the factory, and will probably be after lowering. Mine were, so I put on rear camber arms after.

 

They are not hard to put on after though if needed so lowering first and seeing what you get is an option. You will just need to align it again if you put the arms on after.

 

From what I see there are a few basic groups of arms available, the billet style arms that usually come with threaded adjusters, and the SPC style with eccentric bolts.

 

The billet style arms are usually more expensive, and the threaded style adjusters harder to use, I went with the SPC style.

 

All the SPC-style arms use the same basic design, and as mentioned many of the different brands use the actual SPC arms (my Whitelines had SPC-stamped arms and hardware). They all adjust at the hub end with eccentric bolts. The difference is in the differential side bushing.

 

When I was shopping the only SPC style arms available were SPC and Whiteline. Whiteline uses a poly bushing (they used to be eccentric too for more range but the latest ones including mine now use standard poly bushings) and SPC uses a sealed spherical joint style bushing. I prefer bushes over joints in a street car so I went with Whiteline.

 

Oh, and the BRZ/86 uses the same part, if you want more options and possible deals.

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I would get the Rear Adjustable LCA as well. It allows the alignment to be even and to be adjusted. The stock ones have more camber than I wanted when lowered 1” (plus I wanted more front camber than rear camber) and not all cars are even. You could probably get away with reusing the front and rear struts mounts as I yet to hear or read about any of them failing. It doesn’t even seem like failure point on the fourth gens either. My rear strut mounts have 110k miles on them. That being said I plan on replacing my rear struts mounts when I rebuild the suspension on my LGT to remove the solid and poly bushings the 1st owner installed.
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I am doing a similar full swap to koni's, possibly as soon as next week. I live in the rust belt, so the only parts I saved from my stock struts were the bump stops and dust covers. I probably could've reused the spring seats, but I hate the idea of putting rusty parts back on my car. I can confirm GTeaser's list is everything you need.

 

I also preemptively got the Whiteline arms, mainly to even the camber side to side.

 

I was prompted to do the swap sooner than I'd like because of my failing strut mounts- I currently have Tein coilovers and a 1" lift, and I think that combination really did the bearings in. They were brand new about 15k miles (a little over a year) ago.

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I got new KYB's. I wasn't too concerned with the structure of the bodies, but the amount of sanding/prep work I'd have to do to get them paintable wasn't worth it. I'm trying to make these last many many thousands of miles...
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is it possible to use spc or whitline rear camber bolts on the oem rear setup?
No, you need the spc arms with slots for adjustment. Older subarus could use camber bolts for adjustment because they used struts in the rear as well as the front.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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As GT said, you can get away without adjustable LCAs if you're just doing suspension upgrade with mild drop and stiffness. As long as you know a competent shop that knows how to do alignments you'll be fine.

 

Did my Konis with H&R springs (which I believe sits .15-.25 lower than Eibach, but cant remember) at 151k miles. Currently at 171k and had these set of tires installed at 125k. Mostly even wear across all tires - tire rotations every other oil change.

 

Recently had an alignment done by the same shop at 169k.

Initial Camber:

Front Left -1.24 deg.

Front Right -1.34 deg.

Rear Left -1.70 deg.

Rear Right -1.97 deg.

 

Final Camber:

Front Left -0.85 deg.

Front Right -0.92 deg.

Rear Left -1.78 deg.

Rear Right -2.07 deg.

 

Zero toe in the front, a little in the rear.

 

I would have liked the rear camber to be a little better, but the tech couldn't seem to get it any better. He suspects (along with myself) that I may need to replace some bushings or other components. I did the front LCAs with Super Pros and Whiteline bushings around 160k w/alignment, but after some settling and wear I'm sure that where the front adjustment was needed. The rear is still on stock rubber bits even after stiffening things up with the konis, so probably time to replace those!

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