FLlegacy Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 The struggle is real. Edit: ^wait you are in FL and you are struggling with this?Yep, to be fair my drive to work is like 2 miles with about 8 stops so the drive alone wont warm anything up. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 Yep, to be fair my drive to work is like 2 miles with about 8 stops so the drive alone wont warm anything up. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk I'll let you know if this Amsoil does the trick ... In case it falls sub 20 degrees there in Central FL I did drive it yesterday after the change - it's not super cold here right now ~40 degrees F - much smoother out of the driveway and up through the gears. Definitively better that what was in it, which to my knowledge was the factory Subaru fluid I'll update you when we have a couple cold nights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 Falcor, the Goodhue speaks truth. He does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 I'll let you know if this Amsoil does the trick ... In case it falls sub 20 degrees there in Central FL I did drive it yesterday after the change - it's not super cold here right now ~40 degrees F - much smoother out of the driveway and up through the gears. Definitively better that what was in it, which to my knowledge was the factory Subaru fluid I'll update you when we have a couple cold nights.I just changed fluid to motul so it is better, but definitely not buttert smooth. But it is a subaru, lol. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 Got dark yesterday before I could get the rear diff changed so I changed the rear diff fluid with the severe gear. Stuff that came out was brown, but not much in the way of shiny bits. Thats good Finally got the kartboy endlinks on the rear sway bar. Old ones were indeed toast and of course had to cut them off due to the rusted bolts. Damn road salt The rear seems much flatter in the turns. It's still on the stock swaybar but I like it. Lastly changed out the stock bypass valve with a turbosmart compact. My present to me. Finally seeing 17 psi target on the cobb ots 93 octane tune. Previously the best it would do was 16 with the high wastegate duty cycle. I checked every fitting and connection and could not find any leaks so my guess was the valve was leaking. Apparently it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 just a quick wash and wax considering the nice weather on saturday...and then it rained all day sunday. of course. currently planning/budgeting a whole suspension refresh...thinking KYBs designed for the 13-14, OEM 13-14 springs, new top hats, bellows and bump stops...think i'm going with mevotech front and rear control arms. Also have a 19mm rear sway bar that'll be going in, and will be putting some new end links on it when installing that. Thoughts on OEM over the mevotechs, or OEM over the KYBs or konis?. either way, i'm excited to get this 150k+ mile suspension out of here. gonna be a good spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 The rear upper control arms are lot of work, it involves dropping the entire rear assembly which includes the rear end. I have a set of OEM rear control arms sitting around that I haven't gotten around to installing, because of the work involved. Having had Koni/Eibach, KYB/Eibach & KYB/stock springs, I like the Koni/Eibach the best, but they are all better than stock. It just depends on how you want to spend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 ooh crap didn't know the rear control arms were that much of a pain...hmmm, will have to inspect and see what kind of shape they're in then. i'm not looking to drop the car any(thanks craptastic richmond roads), so sticking with stock seems to be the best idea in my head, just not sure how worth the extra money konis would be if i'm staying at stock height... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 (edited) ooh crap didn't know the rear control arms were that much of a pain...hmmm, will have to inspect and see what kind of shape they're in then. i'm not looking to drop the car any(thanks craptastic richmond roads), so sticking with stock seems to be the best idea in my head, just not sure how worth the extra money konis would be if i'm staying at stock height...The eibachs have roughly an inch of drop, I installed a 1" strut spacer with them and basically retained stock height. That could also be an option for you. You should look at the 13-14 springs to those with the konis are also a good combination according to reviews on here. Edited December 31, 2019 by FLlegacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spb Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 GTEASER has somewhere a list of all the parts necessary to do the suspension upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 (edited) just a quick wash and wax considering the nice weather on saturday...and then it rained all day sunday. of course. currently planning/budgeting a whole suspension refresh...thinking KYBs designed for the 13-14, OEM 13-14 springs, new top hats, bellows and bump stops...think i'm going with mevotech front and rear control arms. Also have a 19mm rear sway bar that'll be going in, and will be putting some new end links on it when installing that. Thoughts on OEM over the mevotechs, or OEM over the KYBs or konis?. either way, i'm excited to get this 150k+ mile suspension out of here. gonna be a good spring. The rear upper control arms are lot of work, it involves dropping the entire rear assembly which includes the rear end. I have a set of OEM rear control arms sitting around that I haven't gotten around to installing, because of the work involved. Having had Koni/Eibach, KYB/Eibach & KYB/stock springs, I like the Koni/Eibach the best, but they are all better than stock. It just depends on how you want to spend. I don't think he was talking about the upper control arms, I think he meant the rear lower control arms, which are relatively easy and recommended to do since we don't have camber adjustment in the rear from factory. But yeah, dgoodhue is right that the rear upper control arms are a giant pain. And as far as personal opinion on spring/strut setup, I've had factory 10-12, Koni+Eibach, and Koni+H&R. The Koni+Eibach is a good setup, comfortable and rides well, handles well, but honestly the H&R feels better to me in every way. I have nothing bad to say about the Eibach setup, I just prefer the H&R setup both visually and driving wise after riding both for a while. The Eibachs are pretty close to the spring rate of 13-14 but with a 1" drop, while the H&Rs honestly feel like a well-tuned German sport sedan and provided a 1.5" drop (which in my experience, as small as the difference is, the aesthetic/visual difference between the 1" and 1.5" drop is extremely noticeable). I truthfully think that the way the car rides on Koni+H&R is how these cars should've felt from the factory. Edited December 31, 2019 by Humble Rumble 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 just a quick wash and wax considering the nice weather on saturday...and then it rained all day sunday. of course. currently planning/budgeting a whole suspension refresh...thinking KYBs designed for the 13-14, OEM 13-14 springs, new top hats, bellows and bump stops...think i'm going with mevotech front and rear control arms. Also have a 19mm rear sway bar that'll be going in, and will be putting some new end links on it when installing that. Thoughts on OEM over the mevotechs, or OEM over the KYBs or konis?. either way, i'm excited to get this 150k+ mile suspension out of here. gonna be a good spring. Sounds like a plan, cant really go wrong with any of those choices. I would only suggest to consider adjustable rear lower arms. Even at stock height you can now get camber equal on both sides, and if you go Konis and lowering springs, you can get camber in spec. SPC and Whiteline are the typical choices. They are exactly the same (Whiteline arms and hardware are even marked SPC), except for the joint on the subframe side of the arm. SPC uses a spherical joint with boot, while Whiteline uses a poly bush. My car was a daily and spherical joints are too hardcore for me, so I went with the Whiteline. Works as advertised and no complaints so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 lots to consider--didn't think about the strut spacer option, so that's interesting. will continue researching and see what i come up with. appreciate the input errybody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 For me, it was a big hurdle for my wife to accept the $650ish just for the Koni struts. Not including the $110 donors. Trying to tack on $250 for adjustable rear arms and $120 on fronts might be harder. Thankfully she understands the struts are needed as mine currently have 92k on them. Once we have a good list of needed parts, that will show the whole picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 For me, it was a big hurdle for my wife to accept the $650ish just for the Koni struts. Not including the $110 donors. Trying to tack on $250 for adjustable rear arms and $120 on fronts might be harder. Thankfully she understands the struts are needed as mine currently have 92k on them. Once we have a good list of needed parts, that will show the whole picture. Falcor : "Honey, tires are 'spensive. Bad camber at the back will eat up tires quick. We need those adjustable rear lower arms!" Mrs. Falcor: "Just set toe close to zero and it should be no problem. Toe is what eats tires, not camber." Falcor: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Fan Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Ahhhh.....January 1st....start of a new year. Woke up to the most glorious sunny day this morning. It was 11* C (About 52* F) so I took the car out and gave it a wash so it would feel good about itself this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 I have a list somewhere of all the parts necessary, with OEM part numbers. I'll try to find it. GTEASER has somewhere a list of all the parts necessary to do the suspension upgrade Here is my list. This is for springs and shock, not ALL the suspension control arms and such. Attached as JPG and a PDF.samsino list.pdf GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 I've been considering swapping out my koni/h&r setup to go back to stock. If I knew I had a buyer I could be persuaded I'd hate to go back to the stock ride height and squishy feel but I just haven't done all of the other things I wanted to do to the car. It's also not a GT, and now that I have an FXT I wanna spend money there. And hopefully next year I'll be offloading the legacy anyway, so why not go to stock sooner than later. I'd just need to order some KYBs and I'll be set. You'll need your own top hats as I'll need to reuse mine. The real question is how bad would someone want the LCAs with superpro and white line bushings in them? And how bad do I wanna F with those bolts lol Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Wheels are on, still need center caps. I like the color and I think the look will grow on me. The spokes might be a bit too skinny. What do you think? Got the lifetime wheel alignment too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudemonster Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 It likely will grow on you. I have 10-spoke Enkei’s which are also thin spokes, and I have appreciated them more the longer they’ve been on. I prefer your lip, though, looks sharp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexmed2002 Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Wheels are on, still need center caps. I like the color and I think the look will grow on me. The spokes might be a bit too skinny. What do you think? Got the lifetime wheel alignment too. Looks fantastic, even without the center caps. It will grow on you, for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 I feel enabled. Like I need Brembos to fill in all that space. 50 thanks and I’ll do it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Dinged today. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzydrummer89 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Just got home after buying a new set of headlight bulbs. Now I need some time to replace the one burnt out one. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexmed2002 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Just got home after buying a new set of headlight bulbs. Now I need some time to replace the one burnt out one. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Make sure you get something soft to sit/kneel on, it takes some time to replace them (if you don't already know). You also should replace both at the same time since the other bulb will probably go out soon. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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