Swapping the center diff, what else should I do at same time?

Howdy folks...it turns out that clunking wasn't just my CV axles, but is indeed my center diff.

 

So I'm going to replace it along with the three bearings on the transfer drive and transfer driven gears. Obviously this entails flushing the tranny fluid so I'm going to do the rear diff fluid as well just to have everything with fresh fluid.

 

My question is what else should I replace while I'm under there? It seems like this a pretty standalone project but I wanted to doublecheck to see if there's anything I'm missing.

 

If anybody else here has done this let me know any tips you might have. Thanks in advance!

Here were my thoughts after doing the job, that thread also has other info on doing the job, you might have already seen it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5425477&postcount=70

 

I'd just recommend things that might be obvious to some people.. New exhaust springs/bolts if yours are old, maybe a new donut gasket for the exhaust too. I can't remember if I dropped the exhaust towards the front of the car, with the 3 studs and triangular gasket. So one more gasket it might not be a bad idea to replace, but I can't remember if you have to disconnect the exhaust there.

 

I used permatex gear oil rtv instead of regular rtv, seems like a good idea to go with that over regular rtv.

 

Buy a punch set if you don't already have one for the shifter linkage roll pins. I say pins because there is a small roll pin inside of the big roll pin. I forget what size punch I used to remove them.

Here were my thoughts after doing the job, that thread also has other info on doing the job, you might have already seen it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5425477&postcount=70

 

I'd just recommend things that might be obvious to some people.. New exhaust springs/bolts if yours are old, maybe a new donut gasket for the exhaust too. I can't remember if I dropped the exhaust towards the front of the car, with the 3 studs and triangular gasket. So one more gasket it might not be a bad idea to replace, but I can't remember if you have to disconnect the exhaust there.

 

I used permatex gear oil rtv instead of regular rtv, seems like a good idea to go with that over regular rtv.

 

Buy a punch set if you don't already have one for the shifter linkage roll pins. I say pins because there is a small roll pin inside of the big roll pin. I forget what size punch I used to remove them.

 

Haha I found that thread and bookmarked it. I also used it as a preliminary parts list. Thanks for your tips. So you didn't use a regular gasket? Just the rtv?

Any rust on the vehicle? Check the gas tank seams! I mean the driveshaft is the easiest part and you're only 10% of the way there to dropping the rear diff and subframe...

But while you're at it might as well do the fuel pump.... And the injectors.... And the turbo.... Long block....

 

Crap... How did I end up here?

center diff upgrade time - http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?productid=73

Any rust on the vehicle? Check the gas tank seams! I mean the driveshaft is the easiest part and you're only 10% of the way there to dropping the rear diff and subframe...

But while you're at it might as well do the fuel pump.... And the injectors.... And the turbo.... Long block....

 

Crap... How did I end up here?

 

Haha thanks but mine's not a GT so no turbos for me

center diff upgrade time - http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?productid=73

 

Haha don't think my non-turbo would benefit much from that upgrade

As far as I know there is no gasket, I didn't see one at parts.subaru.com, and the FSM calls for a specific kind of threebond RTV. I wish there was a gasket, that way I wouldn't have had to wait 24 hours for the rtv to fully cure before refilling my transmission with gear oil. You might not have to wait that long, I'd imagine dealerships don't wait that long, but I did anyway.