I guess it's my turn

In anticipation of catastrophe, I pounced on a complete (including VF52, intake and fueling) 60K mile EJ257 from a 2012 WRX for what I thought was a good price. PO says it was developing some rod knock, but sounded utterly clueless when I tried to gather more info. My initial plan was to rebuild the shortblock, reuse heads and slap it in. That plan go all shot to hell quickly (see below). Decided to go a different route, which is chronicled here.

 

CURRENTLY UP FOR SALE, DUE TO LIFE CIRCUMSTANCES.

 

Current build list:

 

NWRS Stage 3 block:

-Stock STi EJ257 short block (702 casting). Cleaned, inspected, deck resurfaced and cylinders honed for oversized pistons.

-New OEM ’11+ STi Heat-Treated Crankshaft

-Brian Crower’s 625+ forged connecting rods installed with ARP 625+ series rod bolts.

-Wiseco forged pistons.

-King Racing series main and rod bearings.

-OEM o-rings, seals and sealant

 

D25 heads - Full rebuild with stock valvetrain

ARP head studs

Killer B oil pickup and baffle

Stock oil pan

11mm STi oil pump

New OEM timing set and water pump

Top feed TGV deletes

8mm phenolic spacers for clearance

Perrin V1 fuel rails with braided lines

Cobb 1000CC injectors

Grimspeed 3port EBCS

Tomei Equal length header w/ up pipe

Group N motor mounts

NGK Plugs

OEM Coils

Stock Crank pulley

TurboXS / FastMotorSports Front mount intercooler

AEM intake

Competition clutch 05-09 LGT stage 2 clutch kit (rated for 450 Ft/lbs, hopefully enough)

Torque Solutions pitch stop in Blue

Invidia catless downpipe

Forced Performance Green with 84mm FAP (Blues backordered, swapped me out for a Green)

Forced Performance 84mm Inlet

 

 

Open source tune by Mike at Tuning Alliance pending.

The more I tore in to the used motor, the more oil leaks I was finding. Throttle body hose was soaked, looks like both head gaskets were seeping, intake had wet spots, the list goes on.

My intention today was to pull the intake, coolant lines and heads off of the short block. I wanted to see what kind of shape these D25s are in.

Intake off, good chance to inspect everything and start different parts boxes

 

I had seen many posts about how much fun these can be if you've never done one. Now I know! I'm sure the next time will be a lot simpler.

 

Not a big fan of that much oil on the TB, especially at (allegedly) 60k miles.

 

Found something odd under a coolant hose.

 

"Had rod knock when pulled. Runs great, pulls strong!"

That's what the ad said....

I'm not even mad, mostly impressed!

 

Found the rest of the rod. I'm looking forward to pulling the heads off and seeing what condition everything else is in.

 

Will pull heads tomorrow (or tomorrow's tomorrow) and have fingers crossed they are saveable.

Having to reorganize this thread. The carnage is just too awesome to not share.

 

Heads are off, cams look like they should (hopefully) clean up just fine.

 

LH

 

Valves are expectedly dirty and had debris on them. No impacts that I could see after gently wiping them down. My initial thoguht after inspecting them with my amateur eye is that they should clean up fairly nicely, but I will leave that to my machine shop to decide.

 

RH Valves

 

LH Valves

 

Now on to the good stuff! Cylinder 4 is the one that threw the rod through the block. This slug is just kind of floating in there.

 

 

Cylinder 1 is an absolute mess! Look at that thing!

 

 

 

Attempted to pull the crank pulley, but found the damn thing still spins, so will do that tomorrow. I want to see just how messed up the oil pump is.

My buddy came through with an even better deal for this forged block, so I had no choice but to agree.

 

 

I'm interested to see how this build goes. From what I can gather, its bored. .010" with oversized pistons and stock EJ257 CR for B25 heads. Since I will be running D25s, I'm guessing I'll be right around 9:1???

 

 

Any input would be freaking awesome, I know there has to be a bunch of guys here who have ran this same combo. Curious what boost levels, HP, etc they wound up with.

Good carnage pictures. You get 2nd place to sigmafours carnage though. Mostly because he was driving when it happened and then made a good story with his posts showing it.

Runs great, pulls strong!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247786&d=1492496006

 

Direct cold-air induction... is that JDM?

Super-external wastegate, brah

no, it's a crankcase breather hole. need somewhere for all that blow-by pressure to go!

 

but in all seriousness, looks like anything that touches oil is going in the parts bin. plenty of glitter in that beast, i'm sure. is this the VF52 you sent to JMP? cause i wouldn't use it as-is.

 

at least you can send in the injectors to DW for $160, and the top feed TGVs would sell well for someone's delete. or keep it all for a top-feed changeover (do you have a side feeder?).

no, it's a crankcase breather hole. need somewhere for all that blow-by pressure to go!

 

but in all seriousness, looks like anything that touches oil is going in the parts bin. plenty of glitter in that beast, i'm sure. is this the VF52 you sent to JMP? cause i wouldn't use it as-is.

 

at least you can send in the injectors to DW for $160, and the top feed TGVs would sell well for someone's delete. or keep it all for a top-feed changeover (do you have a side feeder?).

 

My car is still a side feeder. Was intending to delete the TGVs, even if just for the experience and practice.

 

This turbo is definitely going to JMP, I don't trust it for more than being a dirty paper weight right now.

 

Question: If I reuse this block, I can do away with the PCV, right?

Question: If I reuse this block, I can do away with the PCV, right?

 

IF you re-use that block, you can do whatever you want!

 

cause nothing is going to do much good, or more damage than already exists.

It's an AB-BB block...no wonder it failed!

Subbed for greatness!!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Pulled crank sprocket, it broke. Pulled oil pump, it spilled out a little bit of metal flake. Pulled water pump, it feels a little grindy. Looks like they'll all be replaced as well.

 

Local machine shop (does all of the work for the local Subaru dealership and most performance shops) quoted me up to $450 to clean heads, do a good valve job and polish cams. I'll probably drop them off in a week or so, after my next pay check.

 

Current remaining parts list:

Crank sprocket and pulley (GS or Perrin?)

OEM gasket set for 06 LGT

ARP head studs

OEM (or Aisin) timing package with pulleys, idlers, tensioners, drive belts and water pump

OEM oil pump

Moroso oil pickup

UEL Header (used is okay)

Top feed injectors (undecided on size)

Fuel pump (undecided)

Catted downpipe

Clutch and Flywheel

3" turbo inlet (can wait)

OCVs (doubt that the ones from blown motor are any good, ones from OEM have 186K on them)

 

Parts ready to be installed

GS up pipe

GS 3 port Boost controller

VF52 (15K miles on it, not the one from blown motor)

 

Parts to reuse from blown up motor:

Oil pan and baffle

D25 heads (after machine shop gives them the OK)

Intake manifold

Topfeed TGVs (DIY delete)

Fuel rail

A/C compressor and lines

Various sensors and hoses

 

Parts to reuse from OEM motor

Alternator and bracket

P/S Pump and brackets

TMIC

Remaining missing sensors and hoses

 

Wish list

GS, Spearco, PW style large TMIC

JMP VF52 (likely the oil contaminated one)

Exhaust wrap

Turbo blanket or neato heat shield

Radiator shroud

Alternator cover - dress up items, etc

GS crank pulley, and check out Partsouq for oem parts. OCVs are super cheap and will more than make an order from them worth it. all new subaru parts. could still get an Aisin kit but get cast water pump and oem tensioner from Partsouq. Tuners like the "new" Bosch injectors, so ID1000s or more depending on fuel and future goals.

 

EDIT: or PM BMB to pick away at his mondo partout...

BMB you has PM.

My power goals are 300ish whp. But usable power is far more important than peak numbers to me. I will spend a few hours on Partsouq, thank you!

BMB you has PM.

My power goals are 300ish whp. But usable power is far more important than peak numbers to me. I will spend a few hours on Partsouq, thank you!

 

only downside is that you need part numbers before hand, and some US parts aren't sold. but getting even 25% of the OEM parts you need will be a significant cost savings, and they ship in ~3 days. Fedex if i remember right. there is also import duties that fedex will hit you up for after you get your package.

 

and 300 is easy, so ID1000s should be plenty.

300 is easy, so ID1000s should be plenty.

 

Long term I might shoot for a whole lot more and take advantage of my forged internals, but that has to wait until I can retire the LGT to weekend driver status.

Long term I might shoot for a whole lot more and take advantage of my forged internals, but that has to wait until I can retire the LGT to weekend driver status.

 

Ha, I've been saying that for the past 2 yrs. Wanting to buy a cheap DD car for driving to work and around town and keep the LGT on the side yard as my project car. Still using the LGT as my DD.

Following this thread I'm sure your build will be running before mine let me know how those pistons work out for you! I put in a set of wiseco's .020 I kept the stock rods since I'm not going for 400WHP anymore plus I want to stay somewhat reliable.

Following this thread I'm sure your build will be running before mine let me know how those pistons work out for you! I put in a set of wiseco's .020 I kept the stock rods since I'm not going for 400WHP anymore plus I want to stay somewhat reliable.

 

Nah man, I'm not so sure. I do tend to get after it when I have the stuff I need, but I am way short of having all the parts I need to get this thing actually on the road. We'll see though. Plenty of tinkering I can get done in the mean time.

Nah man, I'm not so sure. I do tend to get after it when I have the stuff I need, but I am way short of having all the parts I need to get this thing actually on the road. We'll see though. Plenty of tinkering I can get done in the mean time.

Good you had the same idea to do the hoses under the IM I did my fuel lines just because of age and I have a few others that are rock hard that go to some of the other sensors.

 

I've always had back luck.. pull a hose when it's 40 f outside and it breaks the T- connection. I'm trying to estimate what a VF52 will net me on my numbers.

Okay, I'm confused. Somebody please set me straight. I have been under the impression all along that the 2006 EJ255 had D25 heads and the STi went to B25 heads in 2007. The 2013 WRX motor I picked up had D25 heads, which I expected, though they do must be a newer version and do not have the half mom seals... Am I correct in this thinking?

I was poking around my suspension, tracking a clunk when I glanced up and saw B25 stampings on my "stock" motor. I'm slowly losing it, I swear

Look on nasioc for differences. Not worth losing sleep over.

Be sure to clean tmic really well. metal gets into everything.

 

If you drop a rod and don't catch your car on fire, you weren't trying hard enough. the local porsche club still uses my mishap as reason to check your fluids before going on track.

Also check your exhaust valve clearances. The book all machine shops use has the wrong value.