How costly is a timing fix?

Check engine light came on. Went and got the code read and stated timing and Cam issue. How long can I drive it like that and how much should it cost to get it fixed? I'd it easier to just get the parts and do it myself or is there a lot of time and labor involved?

If there is an issue with the timing, I personally would highly recommend NOT driving the vehicle. Remember, these Boxer engines are "Interference" engines, where the proper timing keeps the Pistons from connecting with the intake/exhaust valves. If the engine is out of timing, you run the risk of making contact and either bending a valve or making it a permanent part of the piston.

Not all Subaru boxers are interference but this one is.

 

The issue should be diagnosed before driving any further. It could be cam sensor (easy replacement) or it could be jumped timing belt. If the engine runs normal it's probably not the latter. Could be few other things.

Went to advance auto to get the code read Cam and timing. I have 150,000 mi on the car and motor. It seems to run fine exhaust note sound a little different. Did make a couple of weird noises twice drove it 70 mi like that. Is this a timing issue should I just replace the belt, pulleys, water pump, and seals?

Also if I was to replace the system. What is a good oem brand or premium brand to go with?

What was the actual code pulled? I’d pull the left side timing cover and check condition of the belt..

P0011 Cam position over advanced bank 1

Lots of threads about the p0011. I don't know enough about it to say anything more than this, but please don't just throw a timing belt at the car or anything like that.

 

Code is to tell you that there is not enough oil pressure on the AVCS cam and the camshaft is over advanced. Most likely cause... blockage of the banjo filter that supplies oil to the passenger side OCV and the turbo. If you are very lucky it is just the OCV. If it is an obstruction in the filter, your turbo is on borrowed time too.

 

quote above is from this thread. OCV = oil control valve

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/code-p0011-ever-something-other-then-turboi-88470.html

Thanks just looked at some of the other threads... Hopefully it's not the turbo.. I do hear a whine but it's been like that since I bought it 6000 mi ago... About 3 months I've owned it. I hope it just the vvt solenoid.

P0011 really has nothing to do with timing. Could be bad OCV, dirty OCV, or serious oil contamination.

How old is the oil? What kind? Does the car have a new turbo?

Recommend oil analysis, maybe drain & check for glitter depending on the answers to the above questions.

Start by pulling/inspecting/cleaning the OCVs and swapping them with each other.

Ocv

What does ocv stand for? Can't find it on rockauto.

Oil control valve

Since you're looking on rockauto, I believe they're listed as "Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid / Actuator" under Engine.

Another word for VVT solenoid.

Jinx

Jinx

 

The guy that responded to you with "Eat what?" on another thread made me laugh out loud....LMAO

Remove the OCV's (VVT Solenoids) and clean them with brake cleaner. Use a 9V battery to see if they shift as they should. If they do, then reinstall and reset the code by removing the negative battery terminal. If one doesn't or both, then replace them.

I'm bored and wanted to provide a little more info/help.

 

The thread below has some excellent info from Fjuan, some of the stuff we've already mentioned, but the picture is really good too. In the top right you can see the ocv. I think p0011 is the passenger side ocv. This picture also explains why if the OCV is not getting enough oil pressure, that could be big trouble, because maybe the turbo isn't getting enough oil pressure too. Hopefully the turbo guys will correct me if i'm wrong, but I think that's true, since there's a banjo bolt filter back there that can clog.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4700912&postcount=2

 

This whole thread below has lots of good info on p0011 too, and tips for removing and installing the ocv.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p0011-code-please-help-217629.html

 

Post #14 from the link above, which has good pictures of the passenger side ocv.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4656658&postcount=14

 

Driver side ocv picture for what I think is p0021.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1943328&postcount=8

OP, I would be interested in which brand of motor oil your using and what oil and change intervals this engine has seen ?

 

What's your DD mileage ?

Can I drive my car with this code to a shop or should I get it towed

I think you know the safe way to go. Have it flat bedded.

 

It's a good deal to join AAA too. The 100 mile tow package is the best bet if you drive a lot. There are other benefits to being a AAA member too.

Update.....

 

Got an engine flush and cleaned the sensors. Drove it 40 miles and no code so far. Seems to be running smoother than it was. There was a lot of sludge built up and came out the mechanic said. Also to come back for an oil change after 2000 miles. There was no metal flakes or sparkles thank god.

If the previous owner wasn't keeping up on oil changes which it sounds like they weren't, it could be a real problem for you. I'd have a Subaru mechanic look it over, and by look it over I mean actually inspect some things (turbo feed line filter, turbo, compression, boost/vac pressure, etc).

 

Also, you could go with a Blackstone used oil analysis. $28 and you'll know pretty well what's going on inside the motor when you pull that sample in 2k miles.

Yes I'd do that if it didn't cost so much for them to check it out.... I'll probably get the oil test kit and send it out. But as for having a Subaru Tech check it out for $400 Idk... Wish I made more money.