What did you do to your Outback today? V3

replaced my stock boost controller last night with a used Grimspeed one. Also figured out why the ECU was no longer reporting boost/vacuum (gauge stuck at zero) since Saturday, even though the car appeared to run OK. A small hose between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor got disconnected. I also found that the hose was completely hardened! Never checked that hose before. Replaced it.

 

Then, spent an hour doing some road tuning to adjust my WG DC.

Edited October 29, 2019 by xt2005bonbon

Winterized my outback today.

Went from 215/45R17's and JDM Wagon Bilsteins

To 225/60R17 H6 Outback Front spring/strut & 1” lift spacer, Megan (Outback P/N) rear coils set max height & 1" lift spacer, Godspeed and Megan lateral arms, Subie Lift Oz Trailing Arm spacers

 

Other mods not related to the lift specifically present in pictures but not listed.

I have been low(er) for so long, I am really liking the way the outbacks with a lift look.

And if you get a good suspension set up for it, it actually handles pretty good too.

Found some oil on my turbo oil drain. Unsure if it's coming from the drain or up above a little higher.

 

More digging to do.

Was also checking all the HP/Torque numbers of almost all VW cars they have. It's interesting how the torque/HP numbers of the Golf R are not that high, and yet, that car is pretty quick. Curb weight similar to our car too. Gearbox must play a big role then.

 

 

Do you still own your outback?

 

The outback is still around with a nice car cover on it. Adding the Alltrack only added about 56 cents a day to my insurance, so pretty much everything/anything has taken priority over prepping the OB to sell. And the way things are going, I might just use the Outback through snowboarding season.

What are the working front 02 sensors? I know that Rebourne you had a bunch of issues with yours. Just go OEM? Although I think those are like $200.

 

I had at least 3 front O2s die with my 850CC DWs. 2 on E85 and one on 91.

I killed oem, denso, and bosch.

 

Since going ID 1050s, both on E85 and 91, I've had zero die in about the same mileage as all three previous failures combined. Not proven cause, but the only facts I have to go on. When I sell those 850s, I'll recommend they are sent if for calibration first.

I have been low(er) for so long, I am really liking the way the outbacks with a lift look.

 

I can agree to disagree. Bumped into this one today of my OBXT from Oct 2015:

 

 

This was in Yosemite. Rear is too low, way before I added the taller rear spacer, and probably still half loaded with stuff. Must have been not long after installing this suspension setup (Koni/Htech), because I still remember how happy I was with the drive.

Oh, don't get me wrong. I still like the look of low.

 

You should have parked next to that OB on the left of the pic for a better perspective .

Today: removed STI steering rack, GS intercooler, GS downpipe, Tomei ELH.

To do: Install OEM header, OEM steering rack, OEM downpipe, OEM intercooler

 

Basically, don't need / use the extra power that the GS stuff gave me. And got tired of the VDC kicking in at random moments. Plus - I can probably sell everything for a little under $2k.

 

Stop and go traffic doesn't need power and my weekend drives are typically just somewhere on the freeway where steering feel and a quick(er) rack makes pretty much 0 difference.

What tune are you using without the ELH and downpipe? Seems like a significant change. Under $2k seems a hair low, but I'm just eye balling it.

 

I have similar tasks to do, but zero time.

 

6 months ago, I'd be buying the intercooler and STi rack from you.

I have a tune that's without ELH but with a downpipe. I'll run that in i mode until I get retuned.

And got tired of the VDC kicking in at random moments.

 

That was always what kept me from doing this upgrade.

I have been low(er) for so long, I am really liking the way the outbacks with a lift look.

 

IMHO the 20mm wheel spacers and oversized tires I have really make it go from eh to mean as hell

Edited November 7, 2019 by Keyan

Keyan, I'd be curious to hear in a month or two if you'll suffer from vibration during mid acceleration around 18-20 mph. I suffer from it. On the subaruoutback forum, people have also reported this issue when they lifted their car. I am also a bit lifted like you. They all think it is due to the increased stress to the cv axles, which makes sense.

I was lifted last year and did not have vibration and still don't have vibration this year.

 

The car is only 1" over stock outback height in the suspension (the larger tires also lift it but doesnt affect cv angle).

 

I haven't seen any problems.

Good on you then. I do have aftermarket CVs. So that probably does not help.. I am about the same height as you are I think. Also have 255/60/17 tires (Geolandar AT/S)

 

 

That was always what kept me from doing this upgrade.

 

The only way I have seen to actually fix it is to plug in a controller that upscales a signal. I found one example of this controller from the UK, but never got a response when I asked if I could purchase it. I am not electrical engineering enough to want to mess with that . Really I just didn't want to spend the time learning how to do that.

 

The one negative is that I think the STI rack is slightly* dartier at like 80mph. Although that could be the Perrin lockdown bushings etc that help remove slop. I'll know once I drive around some with the OEM rack.

 

I do have aftermarket CVs. So that probably does not help.. ]

 

Almost universally I think there are bad experiences with aftermarket CVs. I think only shops are okay with them because they can switch them out so quickly when they run into a bad one.

Edited November 7, 2019 by Rhitter

I have the Perrin lockdown in play with the stock rack... It's very solid feeling now.

My feelings on the OEM rack remain unchanged. It's very meh. Does the job. No STI rack that's for sure.

Almost universally I think there are bad experiences with aftermarket CVs. I think only shops are okay with them because they can switch them out so quickly when they run into a bad one.

 

 

Yeah. I always tried to keep my OEM as long as possible. But they eventually failed as well. Followed Msprank advise in terms of aftermarket CVs. Got the First Equipment Quality W0133-1957026-FEQ. They're actually ligther than OEM too.

 

 

I have the Perrin lockdown in play with the stock rack... It's very solid feeling now.

 

 

I have it too. It's nice. But I'd like to have the STI rack too though.

Edited November 8, 2019 by xt2005bonbon

Over the past month I have changed my battery, changed out the front and rear o2 sensors, swapped in a Grimmspeed downpipe, changed spark plugs, changed MAF sensor, and fiddled with AccessTuner modifying OTS tunes all still chasing this elusive feedback knock I keep experiencing. Each step of the way it gets a little better, but it is still there. I also picked up some Nameless 5" axlebacks from freaksavior in the classifieds. I know that's not going to help with the FBK but they sure do sound good. I still think the knock is related to fuel delivery somehow. With the replacement parts and the tuning, I have it narrowed down to light throttle at .80-.84 calculated load between 2000 and 2600 rpm, and same load range after a shift to 2nd and 3rd. Happens mostly in 5th on the highway cruising in traffic. I have read several places that it's pretty common, but I am anal and I don't want it at all. Next is going to be PCV assembly, replace knock sensor, replace coil packs and maybe the STI fuel damper swap. 2015 STI steering rack is rebuilt and ready to go in, but I am going to hold off till I can the rack, all the bushings, and coilovers at the same time.

Only took like 6 months of dicking around...

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lenovo-smartphone-into-center-cubby-installation-diy-280961.html

Edited November 10, 2019 by rougeben83

Over the past month I have changed my battery, changed out the front and rear o2 sensors, swapped in a Grimmspeed downpipe, changed spark plugs, changed MAF sensor, and fiddled with AccessTuner modifying OTS tunes all still chasing this elusive feedback knock I keep experiencing. Each step of the way it gets a little better, but it is still there. I also picked up some Nameless 5" axlebacks from freaksavior in the classifieds. I know that's not going to help with the FBK but they sure do sound good. I still think the knock is related to fuel delivery somehow. With the replacement parts and the tuning, I have it narrowed down to light throttle at .80-.84 calculated load between 2000 and 2600 rpm, and same load range after a shift to 2nd and 3rd. Happens mostly in 5th on the highway cruising in traffic. I have read several places that it's pretty common, but I am anal and I don't want it at all. Next is going to be PCV assembly, replace knock sensor, replace coil packs and maybe the STI fuel damper swap. 2015 STI steering rack is rebuilt and ready to go in, but I am going to hold off till I can the rack, all the bushings, and coilovers at the same time.

 

 

good on you for making sure your car is running in tip top shape.

 

Only took like 6 months of dicking around...

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lenovo-smartphone-into-center-cubby-installation-diy-280961.html

 

It actually looks pretty good. Screensize is decent too. I would look into a gesture app and possibly a usb device which enables you to use the oem steering wheel buttons to control apps and stuff. Very useful.