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5EAT question - shift point using the paddles


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  • 2 weeks later...

The first cable was an error on my part.

 

The second cable also does not work.......and also has the CH320(?) IC. This particular cable was supposed to be good based on forum confirmation. Regardless, I've gone ahead and ordered a 3rd cable that specifies that it has the FT232BL chip that seems so elusive.

 

I tried to get an old XP laptop going but that was proving to be a distraction. Other than that, I've gone the route of reassigning COM as well as manually installing drivers. I believe it simply comes down to the wrong IC in this 2nd cable.

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I'm half thinking the vendor of the 2nd cable may have once supplied it with the 232 IC but something must have changed. There were forum posts confirming it was the correct cable as well as some reviews stating that it worked with FreeSSM....neither of which are currently true as far as I can tell.

 

No biggie. Just have to wait for another cable to arrive and see what happens

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  • 2 weeks later...

Eureka! 3rd cable arrived and appears to be all good.

 

I reset Mem and Mem2 so next up is performing the reprogram steps Mr Waters posted.

 

 

Amazon link to cable

 

 

 

EDIT: WOW! The 2-3 shift is so much better now. Will put some miles on and report back.

Edited by bergs
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Great, glad to hear it smoothed out for yah. This is exactly how mine is, but it reverts back to the slide/bang after a bit. Knowing it gets better with a reset is reassuring that the issue is sensor/electrical based. Maybe I will be replacing that speed sensor at some point. Keep us posted on how is works out.
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Seems okay so far. I performed the shift calibration procedure 3 times just because.

 

BTW, the description for the cable I linked states it does not work with Win10......it certainly does.

 

I plugged in the cable, let the drivers install then searched the internet for updated drivers through Device Manager. Restarted my laptop, assigned comms through FreeSSM then proceeded to use the software as intended.

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I need to do this on my '13. I've seen other people saying to (after ATF warm) WOT and row through the gears. Anyone actually do this?
WOT and row through the gears? I am not looking for ticket(s) so just doing the reset and alternating between manual mode and full auto works for me.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I'm going to venture a guess that I'm officially in the "replace the turbine sensor" club even though I don't have TCU codes.

 

After reset, things seemed to be okay but as the miles wore on the issue slowly came back....which kinda stinks because I have a lot of broken things at the moment. LOL

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Yup, join the club. I am taking the 2 minutes it takes to do the reset until it gets real bad or I have extra time and money to dive into it. The latter won't happen any time soon.

 

My car is usually good for a few weeks. How long did yours go before it started getting funky?

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Edited by whitexc
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I didn't pay much attention to how long before it came back but it wasn't long...a few days maybe. It's still better than prior to the reset but still not great.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Can anyone help with which specific sensor could be the cause?

 

Turbine 2 sensor is what I've been looking into however I am seeing conflicting information with regards to exact part number for the sensor along with comments stating this is a $350 wire harness

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My understanding is that if you don't want to replace the entire expensive harness then your option is find a generic replacement automotive hall effect sensor and cut 2 wires of the harness and solder your new sensor in place of the old one.

 

 

 

There is a guide out there with a guy selling the part he used.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/499945-repair-p1710-hard-shifts-5eat.html#/topics/499945

 

 

Would not be an easy job, you'd need to remove the valve body to get access to the sensor.

Edited by moral hazard
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Thank you for posting. Yes, I did see that thread.

 

Found the thread below as well...has some .pdf's and other information.

 

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/188914-anyone-experienced-failed-turbine-2-signal-5eat.html

 

Not too worried about splicing if it must go that way however if I end up removing the valve body, I'm half-toying around with the idea of sending in out to Level 10

 

Just not sure which is the best decision here.

 

 

 

Added info for this thread:

 

This was the result of my Google search:

 

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1LENP_enUS832US839&ei=MbX9XLiXIPCE_QbvmbfoCA&q=subaru+5eat+turbine+speed+sensor+2&oq=subaru+5eat+tu&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.0l2j0i22i30l2.28987.37256..39264...6.0..0.226.1498.15j2j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i131j0i10j0i10i30j0i5i10i30.nFAvqPivPMk

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  • 1 month later...

Short update:

 

Went to my trusted Subaru dealer to see if a reflash of the TCU would help things. Turns out my TCU is up to date.

 

Next step will be to solder in a new sensor.

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  • 1 year later...

Ok, I need to address a couple things before I dive back into this...

 

Most of the issue, as far as shift bang is concerned, is related to the 5-4 downshift. The upshift from 2-3 is also slow.

 

I do get readback values on the Turbine 2 sensor, as seen by FreeSSM, however I do not know how the readback is suppose to be acting or what is considered an acceptable value or range.

 

Still no codes in the TCU and the issue is consistently with the 5-4 shift and 2-3 slow shift.

 

Fluid appears and smells fine so I am wondering if I just go for a fluid exchange or dump the fluid, drop the valve body and simply replace the sensor then refill with new fluid.

 

I am open to advice or guidance on my next steps as I will not be able to install power mods until the transmission has been sorted out.

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  • 8 months later...

So, an interesting update on this issue...

 

The trans eventually developed a really hard 2-3 shift bang, even at light throttle. The 5-4 shift was also pretty bad.

 

Still no codes.

 

Yesterday morning I decided to reset Memory2 while the car was stone cold (~45°F).

 

After reset, I started the engine, allowed it to warm up until the blue light went out, hopped in, selected S# and started driving in D.

 

I did a several light spirited pulls and noticed the shifting was improved by a lot. I continued to drive in this manner for the next several minutes and, to my amazement, noticed the shifting eventually seemed completely normal.

 

I've been driving exclusively in S# and have logged about 300 miles since this most recent Mem2 reset. The gear changes have been all been excellent up to this point.

 

Still have to check out how the paddle shifting acts, as well as what the I and S modes do, however I am astounded that this has improved enough to be considered completely normal!

 

Think I'm going to hold off with the Turbine 2 sensor install for now....

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I'm not sure how to differentiate between genuine and generic sensors but otherwise, yes, the sensor is not available on its own from Subaru. It will come as part of a harness from the factory.

 

 

I ordered a sensor and filter combo a while ago from forum member P1710 and I was in the process of arranging a car lift with a neighbor prior to performing this most recent reset.

 

 

Here are the forum links that have the ebay links to P1710's eBay.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5933259&postcount=6

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5987905&postcount=7

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