Oil dumping out after turbo swap.

Okay, I will try to make this as short and detailed as possible.

 

I swapped my turbo for VF52. I also changed the oil feed lines to IAG. Once I had everything tightened down and got the car back together and on the ground I decided to do a quick start and shut down to make sure nothing was leaking. To my surprise oil was all over the floor (see pic).

 

Oil return line from the turbo is connected and clamped on both sides. The IAG lines are connected but that’s the area I see oil filling the hex cap heads. I of course have not started the engine again due to me be alone working on it and not being able to shut it down fast enough.

 

What areas should I inspect?

 

It’s a lot of oil for a short run of 5 seconds.

 

 

If anyone is in Bend Oregon and is willing to help let me know. At this point I am scheduling shop time as I am exhausted from the install.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited April 18, 2021 by VespaGTS

Can you take a picture of the oil lines?

 

Also, if you get someone there, you can crank the car with the pedal to the floor and it won't start. This way you can control a little better.

You didn't put teflon tape on the AN threads did you ?

 

Teflon pipe tape only goes on the NPT style threads, not AN connections.

 

Did you use new 10mm crush washers on the banjo bolts ?

On the 05-07, you need to use the thick crush washer supplied with the IAG kit to make sure it clamps properly on the port at the back of the head. I'd take a look there to make sure the fitting's actually clamping the washer, instead of clamped against some part of the head leaving a gap for oil to escape through.

I didn’t use Teflon tape in the threads.

 

I had installed and removed the thick washer location twice during install. Is it one time use with the copper washers?

 

Ugh that’s a tough spot to get into without removing all of it on this 2007.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've re-used them a couple of times with success, can't speak to more. I know when I installed the IAG kit on my car the first time around, I ended up grinding down the protrusion on the head that necessitates the use of the thick washer in the first place.

I've re-used them a couple of times with success, can't speak to more. I know when I installed the IAG kit on my car the first time around, I ended up grinding down the protrusion on the head that necessitates the use of the thick washer in the first place.

 

I did the same on my heads as well.

Copper washers, as long as they don't have deep scars in them, are basically infinitely reusable because they're designed as malleable and to conform to the surfaces. I've reused them on calipers for as long as I can remember and never had a single leak.

 

 

 

Did the IAG washers for banjo fitting end have a formed lip on them? I've seen some washers with a formed lip on them designed to fit inside the edge of the banjo fitting and you need them on both the top and bottom of that fitting in order to seal correctly. If not, as said above, it can cause an open path around the banjo bolt to outside for oil to flow through.

Hi guys,

After closer inspection we found the following:

 

The black connector from the IAG stainless line kit does not mount well in the space provided. The banjo bolt to block connection is good. The connection from the black t-fitting to the banjo looks like it is not square and that’s where it’s leaking. It’s possible it got tweaked a bit during install.

 

Max, I didn’t use a 45 angle AN-10 fitting as there wasn’t space for it.

 

We are going to pull it all apart and replace with OEM hard lines since the VF52 is basically a stock location setup anyway. It’s not a cheap fix at $226 in parts but it’s getting it back to correct function. Man, what a project for one connection. Live and learn I guess.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JmP suggests using stock oil lines.

I just ordered stock oil lines and all new banjos and crush washers. I am pulling the intake to get it assembled. What else should be changed while I have it off? I mean if I am going this far I might as well replace any trouble spots that require manifold removal. I assume new manifold gaskets?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can also just stack a few more crush washers behind the banjo that bolts to the head. I ran that way for about a year without issue.

You might want to replace the turbo inlet tube too while the intake manifold is off.

 

You can lift it from the TGV's to Heads, that way the fuel lines come with it. Just replace those two gaskets under the TGV's.

 

Let me if you need more ideas to spend money on...

Edited April 20, 2021 by Max Capacity

You might want to replace the turbo inlet tube too while the intake manifold is off.

 

You can lift it from the TGV's to Heads, that way the fuel lines come with it. Just replace those two gaskets under the TGV's.

 

Let me if you need more ideas to spend money on...

 

 

Thanks for the advice. I have a friend that is coming over to help dial it in.

 

The list is endless with these cars. So many options I love it and hate it at the same time.

 

I was so close to having it buttoned up correctly. It figures that the first thing to go back on (oil line and banjo bolt under inlet) was the part that was 1. Not necessary. 2. Buried the deepest in the system.

Good lessons here folks. Shitty but good.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found it.

 

The AN4 t-fitting fractured once the turbo was bolted down. The clearance issue is due to my car being an 07 and the banjo bolt is located on top of the block under the inlet. It’s a terrible place for a T-fitting and I am going to change the configuration when I pick up another T fitting tomorrow. Basically we will use a single line from the top of the block, route it to a t-fitting that splits the oil feed to the AVCS and Turbo.

 

I do see how this could work if you had an 05-06 LGT. But the 07 is a different setup.

 

Too bad IAG does not show routing for each block type. I believe there are four of them?

 

I’ll post pics when Tapatalk goes back online.

Also,

There is no friggin way I feel good about pulling off the manifold, TGV, fuel rails, and fuel lines. I am maxed out after the dive I have already done on this project. I have learned a lot.

 

The stock parts are going back to Subaru tomorrow.

FWIW, You can get any fitting you need from here,

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=The+Parker+Store+Bend+OR.&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=The+Parker+Store+Bend+OR.&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i22i29i30l2.9429j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Sorry to hear about your troubles, I feel ya for sure. I’ve gotten to the point over the years where my comfort level for wrenching has risen due to necessity or else I just couldn’t afford to run my cars, track or daily. That said, my bar is still pretty low and for what your doing, I’d be stroking a check to get it done Funny thing is one of the biggest stresses that this move to Bend is gonna cause is the fact that I won’t be just down the road from Cobb Surgeline anymore. Edited April 23, 2021 by shralp

Sorry to hear about your troubles, I feel ya for sure. I’ve gotten to the point over the years were my comfort level for wrenching has risen due to necessity or else I just couldn’t afford to run my cars, track or daily. That said, my bar is still pretty low and for what your doing, I’d be stroking a check to get it done Funny thing is one of the biggest stresses that this move to Bend is gonna cause is the fact that I won’t be just down the road from Cobb Surgeline anymore.

 

I bet it’s really convenient to have Surgeline right there. We do have a newer shop in Bend that I need to go visit with a new dyno etc called Arcflash.

 

One thing to consider about moving to 3550’ of elevation is that your tune will be different. Elevation = less HP.

 

Yeah that dang fitting is going to be replaced today and then I tune this weekend. I’ll post my progress here later.

 

Bonus is I can return the $225 of stock oil feed lines to Subaru today.

FWIW, You can get any fitting you need from here,

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=The+Parker+Store+Bend+OR.&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=The+Parker+Store+Bend+OR.&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i22i29i30l2.9429j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I am headed there at lunch today. Thanks Max!

For future reference the correct instructions for this install even if it is a stock location are located here: https://www.iagperformance.com/content/instructions/IAG/IAG-ENG-2072/AVCS-Turbo-Oil-Feed-Line-BB-Turbo.pdf

 

Just ignore the connection to the Garrett Turbo and all should be good.

 

The T-fitting is supposed to go on the back of the block not the top under the inlet. They provided a plug for this but no instructions.

 

The problem is the instructions on the website for stock location are very vague and do not show much.

The Parker Store, They can also make up lines if you need.

 

A couple weeks back my buddies 9000lbs 2 post life needed a 20FT hose replaced. They made it up while we were there.

Edited April 23, 2021 by Max Capacity