From Bugeye to LGT, The Journey Begins

A new owner of non-running 2005 LGT here! I decided to scrap my rust laden bugeye wagon and transplant the entire drive train to the LGT. While I loved my WRX, I was missing some of the creature comforts that a LGT provides, so it was time. Both cars are now at the shop, and some of the parts are starting to flow in. I’ll document the updates here with info and logic, and hope it helps inform others doing a big build.

 

Goal: This will be a daily street car with an occasion trip to the drag strip (hopefully). 700wph (e85) on a mustang dyno with the best boost response is the goal.

 

Engine

-IAG Stage 4 tuff with firelock

-built B25 heads: Kelford high lift (needed new cams to enable AVSC, ferrea valves, beehive springs)

-IAG competition oil pan package

-process west intake manifold

-fluidampr

 

5 speed transmission (carry over from bugeye, long live the 5 speed!!!)

-PPG 1-5 straight cut dogbox engagement gears, billet shift forks and interlocker

-CUSCO front LSD, ASD 12kg center VLCD

-CUSCO rear LSD with Andrewtech diff cover

-DSS carbon fiber drive shaft

-xclutch twin organic disk clutch

*with these PPG SC dogboxes, builder noted it will hold to 800hp if the diffs are upgraded as well.

*going from bugeye to LGT, the axles and the front diff don’t work well (male/female issue), so I elected to go with an upgraded front diff to have it work with the LGT hubs.

 

Turbo/piping (had to go new on this, most will be fabbed by the shop)

-Garrett G35-900 turbo

-killer B ELH (carry over)

-Custom everything in terms of rotated piping

-ETS 4” FMIC

-Tial BOV (will be in speed density)

-Tial EWG (will be routed back to exhaust for noise control

-GESI cat converter

 

Fuel (injectors are a carryover)

-ID1700x, DW in tank pump as a lift a bump, radium surge tank with fuelabs brushless 190GPH pump, ID fuel filter, lines from rear to front, driven by standalone injector controller

-ID1050x, driven by factory ECU (Cobb)

-Dual fuel rail TGV

-Cobb flex fuel stuff

 

Brakes: OEM STI 4/2 pot brembos

Suspension: Cygnus x-1 comfort long travel with swift springs

Wheels/tires: CCW classic 18x9.5 Toyo R888

 

I am looking forward to better boost response (bugeye didn’t have AVCS), more useable dyno curve (will post here once it’s tuned), quieter ride, and most importantly... auto climate control!

Edited December 25, 2021 by chansdaman

Radium surge tank and fuelab brushless tank is in, awaiting install.

 

Also, decided to go closed deck with I beam rods instead (basically a IAG stage 4 tuff block) and run a larger G35-900 turbo. Decided to upgrade the intake manifold to a process west piece.

 

 

 

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Edited May 1, 2021 by chansdaman

Nice plans, before you get to far. you might want to check the brake line junction box under the car below the rear passenger side. There was a recall because it rusted out. Subaru replace mine for free, along with a bunch of brake lines, 9 hours labor job.

 

There threads here about it.

Oh man. Thanks for letting me know. Will definitely check on this!

 

 

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Decided to pull the trigger on the IAG stage 4 extreme short block, and a 4” FMIC ETS FMIC core. Shooting for 800whp!

 

 

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Edited May 23, 2021 by chansdaman

That's a pretty agressive HP target.

 

I gather this is not going to be a street car.

This was the shell that was for sale on FBMP recently right? Was really close to buying it. Good luck with the build, excited to see where it goes.

Yuppers! I guess there were a ton of folks pinging the previous owner. It’s super clean for the year. I’m very excited too! Ty!

 

 

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Pulled the trigger on a full OEM brembo setup for front and rear. OEM STI rotors up front with ferodo DS2500 pads. Suspension will be Cygnus X-1 with swift springs, long travel option, comfort edition.

 

 

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Awesome setup! I am right down the street in Columbia. Be safe!

That's a pretty agressive HP target.

 

I gather this is not going to be a street car.

 

 

Was planning to primarily street it, but might turn more of a track car. With the way the these larger turbos spool (previous one was a GTX3582 gen 2), it was easy to putt around town.

 

 

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After COVID related delays, finally seeing some progress. Transmission build in progress! 5th gear dog engagement plus CUSCO LSD.

 

 

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Welcome to the club! I'm about 15 minutes from you.

Oh man! Just checked out your build. Very nice. Funny thing. We will have the same rims!

 

 

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After consulting with the builder and the tuner, switched to a dual injector setup. On pump, stock ECU will drive ID1050s. On e85, stock ECU will drive the ID1050s and a injector controller will drive the 1700s based on set parameters. This way I’ll have great drivability on pump and not just e85.

 

 

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Love that your doing this build, but no street car and I think you will hate the way it drives unless your at the track. Also It is a shame you doing all this with that weak a$$ 5MT trans man. 6MT or nothing. I can see the first time you put all that power it will shit it's self. But hey what do I know, I just seen it way to many times. I guess you will hit 625 AWHP.

Love that your doing this build, but no street car and I think you will hate the way it drives unless your at the track. Also It is a shame you doing all this with that weak a$$ 5MT trans man. 6MT or nothing. I can see the first time you put all that power it will shit it's self. But hey what do I know, I just seen it way to many times. I guess you will hit 625 AWHP.

 

Actually, if you look at the way he’s building his 5MT, I think he should be just fine. It’s more about the guts of the 5MT not being able to handle the power. That’s why Rallispec still sells all the burly kit. Remember, lots of high powered Suby rally cars back in the day running these 5MT’s.

 

On a side note, comparing the two from track perspective, I would take my old 5MT over my my swapped in 6MT any day of the week on track. I never get into 6th and with closer spaced gearing, I was able to shift less. Sure like that extra gear on the drive to the track tho

Actually, if you look at the way he’s building his 5MT, I think he should be just fine. It’s more about the guts of the 5MT not being able to handle the power. That’s why Rallispec still sells all the burly kit. Remember, lots of high powered Suby rally cars back in the day running these 5MT’s.

 

On a side note, comparing the two from track perspective, I would take my old 5MT over my my swapped in 6MT any day of the week on track. I never get into 6th and with closer spaced gearing, I was able to shift less. Sure like that extra gear on the drive to the track tho

 

 

6speed definitely would have been strong with some minor tweaks, plus I would have gained the R180 and the stronger axles. What I did notice is the PPG 5 speed taller ratios allow for a more relaxed driving experience. I topped at about 75mph on second gear, maybe even more now with the kelfords. Plus, I am curiously how the drive train will do at 800whp. It was doing just fine at 600whp on a low reading mustang dyno. I’m so used to driving the dog engagement that I probably will have to relearn how to drive on a six speed!

 

Just for kicks, here are vids of my old bugeye.

 

 

 

 

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For the 5mt, have you looked into Blast Plates.

 

 

 

I find they made the 2nd to 3rd shift under power much easier.

Just picked up some wheels with 255s based on the power level. Never been really into rims, but these are very nice!

 

 

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Very nice. Those are serious.

 

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Wow.. Very nice! Can’t wait to see the finished product.

Subbed!

After COVID related delays, finally seeing some progress. Transmission build in progress! 5th gear dog engagement plus CUSCO LSD.

 

 

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Is there a thread w details about beefing up the 5mt? I like the ratios more than the six and would like to add more HP safely w/o spreading it.

 

 

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After COVID related delays, finally seeing some progress. Transmission build in progress! 5th gear dog engagement plus CUSCO LSD.

 

 

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You have my attention. so whats the cost of the 5MT built to the trans like this?

Is there a thread w details about beefing up the 5mt? I like the ratios more than the six and would like to add more HP safely w/o spreading it.

 

 

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I think there might be some threads on NASIOC, but my experience so far has been working directly with a shop.

 

The two variables when it comes to building up a 5 speed is convenience (both in terms of noise and engagement) and power level. Your options will deal with with either the engagement style (synchro or dogbox) and tooth profile (helical and straight cut).

 

You can work with a reputable shop to build a transmission that will meet your exact needs. Here is the my stab at weakest to strongest combo in terms of engagement and tooth profile, 1 being the strongest, and 4 being the weakest.

 

1. SC dogbox: dog gears are larger than gears with synchros, and SC will have larger tooth than helical. If you drive correctly, you’ll never have to worry about replacing synchros. If you don’t drive correctly, you will wear out the dog rings. LOUD.

 

2. Helical dogbox: quieter than SC, same rules apply with the dog rings.

 

3. SC synchro: engages like stock, stronger gears

 

4. Helical synchro: most stock like but stronger

 

The quietest and easiest (subjective) will be a synchro engagement helical tooth. You can get creative with the tooth profile (i.e. SC 1-2, helical 3-4) with any engagement.

 

As for diffs, the only player for center is an ASD unit with different level engagement (12k and 20k). For the front, CUSCO makes a few models. I went with 12k center and the CUSCO 1.5.

 

With a dogbox SC transmission with ASD center and CUSCO front, it should be good for about 800whp (or whatever the associated torque rating at that power). I went with this setup, with 5th gear being helical vs SC.

 

I personally enjoy driving the dogbox SC as a daily, and did so for 3 years through DC beltway. The noise however was super loud so I wore some noise reducing headphones.

 

After 30k miles of city driving, my dog rings showed no signs of wear (I’ve only briefly “bounced” my rings once).

 

 

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