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5th Gen Legacy - Suspension Mods


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  • 9 months later...
Big problem, but I wasn't about to let it be.

 

There must be a difference beween the 2010 and 2013 or maybe even the 2012 vs 2013. We know the bumper looks different, but I found out the hard way that the strut tower and trunk pan don't look the same...

 

Anyway. If you plan on ordering it for your 2013, it will look like mine. If you have a 2010, it will most likely look like the pics from GT Spec. If you have a 2012, you may get lucky and have a similar fit as the 2010.

 

Curious. Any 2010 guys in the US, would you please lift that cover inside the trunk and see if it looks like mine or if it looks like the pics in Linc's thread.

 

Apparently, similar issue with the 2010:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3579396&postcount=30

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The 2010 model year has the same issue. One of the reasons I didn't buy one. I have to pack my car with lots of home insulation for my 1950's house. I figured it would be hard to pack in rolls or R30 fiberglass when you have a bar in the way.

 

 

 

Big problem, but I wasn't about to let it be.

 

There must be a difference beween the 2010 and 2013 or maybe even the 2012 vs 2013. We know the bumper looks different, but I found out the hard way that the strut tower and trunk pan don't look the same.

 

Yes, I cut out the carpet. I tried mounting the flat bar below the brace, but that made the bolt touch the trunk bottom and the brace would not sit properly. But, this would have lowered it maybe 1/2" while I need it to go down at least 1 and 1/2"

 

It was supposed to fit like this:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4664257&postcount=41

 

Anyway. If you plan on ordering it for your 2013, it will look like mine. If you have a 2010, it will most likely look like the pics from GT Spec. If you have a 2012, you may get lucky and have a similar fit as the 2010.

 

Curious. Any 2010 guys in the US, would you please lift that cover inside the trunk and see if it looks like mine or if it looks like the pics in Linc's thread.

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  • 1 month later...

Honestly, the stock shocks suck really bad. Swifts, Eibachs or RCEs are probably your best bet but none of those are good with the stock shocks, just not as horrible as the stock springs. If you are gonna go with Koni or Bilstein shocks later on, then get what you want. I run H&Rs but only did so for about 4 months on the stock shocks before I couldn't stand it anymore and did Koni Yellow Adjustables. The car drives and handles like a true sport sedan now.

 

IMAG0108.thumb.jpg.a69b4791edf54c123959659eb24a0073.jpg

 

IMAG1428.thumb.jpg.012e1cfb6b44d3e37fdd8008dc2d7f75.jpg

IMAG0090.jpg.920b27018770a94557ac52ff7f1d98b5.jpg

Edited by GTEASER
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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Get tarmac zeros and just set whatever height you want.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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One of our local owners did that (Tarmac Zeroes) to his 3.6R. Liked the stance when he got everything sorted and balanced.

 

I would suggest the 400# springs versus 350# if you plan on tracking the car. I started with 350# and wanted stiffer. I got 450# swift springs. The ride is harsher indicating stiffer springs, but the rear drops more than the 350# springs when all my gear is loaded.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Personal experiences with these? I have Eibachs and I like the ride and firmness. How are Teins? How are the H&R?

I have h&r's and they are good for daily driving, I can't tell you how they do on the track, but they seem like even with the adjustable dampers they would be a little soft.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 4th Gen, chassis was engineered specifically to be uber stiff, and the 5th Gens are even more stiff, so RSTB, FSTB - Mod benefit is basically aesthetic. F&RSB, definite benefit as it tightens up the suspension
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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On 4th Gen, chassis was engineered specifically to be uber stiff, and the 5th Gens are even more stiff, so RSTB, FSTB - Mod benefit is basically aesthetic. F&RSB, definite benefit as it tightens up the suspension

I put front and rear stbs on and I notice a difference so take that for what it's worth.

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I put front and rear stbs on and I notice a difference so take that for what it's worth.

STBs will change the structural vibration frequencies and modeshapes, which is something you'd likely feel without being able to describe very well.

 

Locally, there is some added stiffness, which is what chases some vibrations off to other places and/or different frequencies that you don't feel as much. The car would then be apt to feel more 'solid' without being significantly stiffer overall (which is mostly what matters for handling - particularly chassis torsional stiffness).

 

 

Norm

retired structural guy

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There is absolutely no way a rstb does anything on a 5th gen. These cars don't have MacPherson struts in the back so the geometry of the so called strut tower doesn't have a thing to do with the geometry if the wheel. It is physically impossible for it to matter. Besides, the mount point is basically at the floor. Where is it going to flex to anyway?

 

Only the subframe matters so subframe bushings or inserts are the only way to tighten up the rear

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4686027&postcount=661

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4687158&postcount=672

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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The only thing I can possibly see it doing is doubling the compression rate of the bushings (which are pretty compliant to start with). Fix the rear shock and/or sub-frame bushings and you'll eliminate any possible benefit from the RSTB.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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The only thing I can possibly see it doing is doubling the compression rate of the bushings (which are pretty compliant to start with). Fix the rear shock and/or sub-frame bushings and you'll eliminate any possible benefit from the RSTB.

A structural brace cannot effectively stiffen a bushing without connecting the two things [that the bushing is trying to provide some isolation between] directly to each other.

 

I suppose if the chassis was truly in the 'wet noodle' category, you'd still gain something. But if it was that bad, you still wouldn't be adding a RSTB for performance reasons unless just keeping the thing in service is considered a performance improvement.

 

 

Norm

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Having open-tracked my 4th gen, with and without F&R STBs, and given that all of the bushings were stock, I could not discern an iota of difference between with and without STBs.

 

Having worked on and driven a couple of 5th gens in order to improve ride and handling, I did note that the rear subframe system is essentially the same between the 4th and 5th gens. Given that the 5th gen is more structurally rigid (incrementally), than the 4th gen, but with essentially the same rear subframe between the two gens, it's difficult to conceive how there would be any additional change between the two with/without RSTBs.

 

I have seen no benefit from a FSTB since the introduction of the 4th gen, but have seen a benefit from under bracing, fore and aft. For 5th gens, that's where I'd concentrate my upgrade focus, after you settle on your tires, suspenders and swaybars.

 

Like so many of these minor tweaks, many are use-specific, as was mentioned, so you'll likely not notice it unless you're driving at 8-10/10ths for extended periods of time. And the YMMV caveat certainly applies.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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