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One of my first mods(and threads!): HID Retro


kojack84

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So I don't post here too much, but thought I should start doing it more often since I'm beginning to finally mod the legacy.

 

After much research and digging I decided to do a HID retrofit to the subi. I have always hated halogen lights so this is one step towards making the car that much more enjoyable for myself.

 

Parts:

RX-330 Projectors w/ E30 clear lenses

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0192.jpg

 

Slim Denso Ballast

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0193.jpg

 

New Phillips 85122 Bulbs (not unwrapping until ready)

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0194.jpg

 

 

 

Still waiting on the H7 wiring harness, should be here today/tomorrow.

 

I was going to install them this weekend, but it's damn cold out right now(20*) so I'm going to have to put them off until another weekend.

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While the plug-and-play H7s will result in more than "acceptable" lighting improvements on the BL/BP's factory projectors (even without worrying about the "squirrel finder" holds in the cut-off-shield) - and be noticeably brighter - a full-optics retro, using quality components, will result in again noticeably superior performance.

 

There are some detailed side-by-side comparisons on various threads here, the difference is obvious.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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looks good but IMO alot of work, why not just buy a $60 HID kit install it and call it a day?

 

 

It's not that much work haha.

 

Remove bumper, bake lights, swap projectors, reassemble.

 

 

And as stated, the huge increase in output/performance of true HID's over fake ones is worth the little effort.

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  • 1 month later...

Picking this up now that there's a heatwave of nice weather in CT (42*)

 

TRS harness soldered up to ballast wiring:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0200.jpg

 

 

Lights baked and projectors apart:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0202.jpg

 

 

New projectors installed!

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0205.jpg

 

 

Closeup:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0206.jpg

 

 

Backed back together and where the ballasts will be mounted:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0208.jpg

 

 

 

Things left:

 

-Mount the ballasts better. PS isn't mounted at all and DS is ghetto-rigged. Ran out of time and needed a quick solution.

 

-Seal up the wiring area. Ran the ballast wiring through the back cap of the headlight. This area wasn't sealed up due to time, but works for 1-2 days. Will need to silicone this up tomorrow.

 

-Aim headlights. Lights are not aimed at all. I'm sure I'll piss some people off driving home tonight but hell, it's only for 1 night.

 

I actually ran out of time since I am working second shift this week, so I had to throw the lights back in the car and put it all together so I can drive to work. Tomorrow I'm going to take them back out and finish the above stuff. Looking forward to what they look like when I drive home tonight.

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Really? Bake the lights? Doesn't that ruin them, or at least run a big risk? HOw do you get them back together & ensure a good, weather tight seal? Seems easier to buy whole new lights & do you work on them-this way the car can be returned to stock rather easily.

 

I really wonder why Subaru doesn't get smart & offer HIDs, at least in their higher line models.

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"Baking" is a very common practice, for light modification. :)

 

The Legacy-specific steps are shown in the Walk-Through thread:

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3737&highlight=headlamp

 

The two most popular ways of achieving the goal of opening up the factory headlamp housing are "baking" - literally popping it into a large enough oven - or using, carefully, a heat-gun. Both methods aim to temporarily melt the sealant that joins the outer aero/dust lens of the headlamp with the backing main unit, thus allowing for access.

 

Resealing is simply a matter of re-heating and popping the halves back together - either with or without new sealant.

 

I've had my LGT's headlamps apart now for going on a half-dozen times. ;) No problems with weathersealing.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally re-did mounting the ballasts and the bulb wiring.

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0209.jpg

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0213.jpg

 

 

Screwed the ballast down to the bottom of the light housings

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0210.jpg

 

 

Bought new dust caps and routed the wiring through the side. Seems to be as clean as possible of a way to use denso ballasts without cutting anything(not ideal)

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0211.jpg

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Before pics:

 

In-car (yes, they were misaligned as I had just gotten the car back from an accident)

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0197.jpg

 

 

Outside drivers window

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0198.jpg

 

Zoomed on cutoff:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0199.jpg

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After pics:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0214.jpg

 

Outside drivers window:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0215.jpg

 

 

Zoomed on cutoff:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0216.jpg

 

 

Roadside pic:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/subi_retro/IMG_0219.jpg

 

I love it!!!:D

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Thanks everyone!

 

very cool man, so noob question as far as HID's but can someone define the "squirrel spotter" please?

 

 

Sure. There's a small opening in the cutoff shield, below the cutoff that allows some reflected light to pass through it and thus show up above the cutoff.

 

FWIW, I filled in my cutoff shield which is why there is no light above the cutoff.

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I see the improvement but I have to wonder if it's worth the added expense and effort.

 

Congrats on having some of the few directly-comparable comparison pictures in existence. Good location, same shots from the same angles are ideal to show the differences.

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Nice Job.

 

Thanks!

 

Your write-up certainly helped a ton with this so thank you for that.

 

I see the improvement but I have to wonder if it's worth the added expense and effort.

 

Congrats on having some of the few directly-comparable comparison pictures in existence. Good location, same shots from the same angles are ideal to show the differences.

 

 

Effort I could care less about, expense I can see some might say no.

 

I should've taken an old roadside pic to illustrate the real differences between the two. The HID spread is wider and farther than the halogen ever was. Let alone much brighter in the usable area in front of the car.

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  • 1 month later...

Added this to my retro.

 

Found a thermally conductive resin that helps seal out moisture/air that is meant for electronics. Poured it into both of my ballasts, let them dry for 2 days, fired them up(while standing back), and they work fine!

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/stang_retro/P1070051.jpg

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/Kojack84/stang_retro/P1070052.jpg

 

Just some added security since they are technically mounted out in the open.

 

p.s. I picked up my vendor account and will be offering my services to anyone who wants a retrofit of their own!

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