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The tale of two OBP OBXTs | low vs lifted


KevinEdgar

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While putting everything together, I had to tear down the alternator to get it painted. The process wasn't too hard and luckily there's a pretty detailed video on youtube about it.

 

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Then it was time to clean up the rad fans and get those mounted to the super thicc radiator.

 

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Here's a photo of everything put together, I had to trim the mishimoto rad hoses a little bit so they wouldn't kink. I also had to cut the heater core hose that attaches to the cylinder 4 cooling mod. Annnnd I cut more of the cobb turbo inlet so it wouldn't smoosh the intake too bad.

 

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All I gotta do now is pick up the ac belt tensioner washer thingy. I might pick that up monday then get the engine filled up with fluids and crank it on tuesday. We'll see!

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Yes new 11mm oil pump but no I did not prime it, I was going to do that by cranking with the crank sensor unplugged.

 

 

 

Haha yeah I watched the other vids on your youtube channel. Man you are really brave in the sand! Once I feel a little bit of sink or slip im outta there!

 

 

 

When I installed my new oil pump (on a new block), I did not prime it. When it was time to test for oil pressure, my method was to remove all spark plugs so as to avoid stress on bearings; I also removed the oil filter to watch for oil coming out of the oil cooler during cranking. After several attempts, it was not building any oil pressure. So I slightly panicked :spin:.

 

What I did to fix this issue was to remove one of the bottom Allen plugs from the new oil pump, use a syringe and squeeze some Lucas assembly lube in the oil pump cavities. After doing so, it only took I think one or two cranking and oil began coming out of the oil cooler. I was relieved to say the least!

 

 

 

 

On a side note, just purchased a set of Maxtrax mini! $$ but worth it I think.

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When I installed my new oil pump (on a new block), I did not prime it. When it was time to test for oil pressure, my method was to remove all spark plugs so as to avoid stress on bearings; I also removed the oil filter to watch for oil coming out of the oil cooler during cranking. After several attempts, it was not building any oil pressure. So I slightly panicked :spin:.

 

What I did to fix this issue was to remove one of the bottom Allen plugs from the new oil pump, use a syringe and squeeze some Lucas assembly lube in the oil pump cavities. After doing so, it only took I think one or two cranking and oil began coming out of the oil cooler. I was relieved to say the least!

 

 

 

 

On a side note, just purchased a set of Maxtrax mini! $$ but worth it I think.

 

Oh wow thats a good tip about pulling the oil pump plug, did a lot of oil spill out when you were basting the oil pump?:lol:

I called the shop who built my engine/heads to ask what their recommended startup and break in procedure is, I really don't want to pull the spark plugs cause it's annoying but I will if I have to. It's frustrating that there are so many methods to engine startup/break in. I wish there was one correct way to do it.

 

Damn I want maxtrax too! Just cost so much, but getting your vehicle unstuck is priceless, escpecially since you carry your fam often.

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Okay today I picked up the tensioner pulley washer thing and some coolant conditioner and I plan on starting it up sunday. I will cry if this engine doesn't run but I also might cry tears of joy if it does. This is my favorite car I have owned and it has been killing me not being able to drive it. Patience is a virtue.

 

New engine splash panel and cat heat shield should be in next week

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Oh wow thats a good tip about pulling the oil pump plug, did a lot of oil spill out when you were basting the oil pump?:lol:

I called the shop who built my engine/heads to ask what their recommended startup and break in procedure is, I really don't want to pull the spark plugs cause it's annoying but I will if I have to. It's frustrating that there are so many methods to engine startup/break in. I wish there was one correct way to do it.

 

 

Well that's the thing; because the oil pump was not able to build pressure, no oil was in there. So when I removed one of the plugs, there was no oil coming out. Now obviously, I had to be quick while injecting the assembly lube into the pump, since I was shooting it vertically from the bottom: quick inject, and quickly put back the plug (with some thread sealant). Here is a pic of the old pump, showing from which plug I decided to inject the lube. Easier on a bench than on the car!

 

Now, YMMV. You may not have to do this at all.

 

 

Regarding plugs, I really think it is best practice not to have the plugs in place so as to avoid unnecessary stress on bearings while oil pressure is building. Yes it sucks to do it (trust me, I did not want to do it). But I am glad I did. Plus, it is easy on your battery and starter too. Have your oil filter off, and crank the car. Wait for oil to come out. Once it is coming out. You're good. Put filter back, plugs back, a few more cranking and then go.

 

 

 

 

 

Damn I want maxtrax too! Just cost so much, but getting your vehicle unstuck is priceless, escpecially since you carry your fam often.

 

 

Oh I know. I looked at all the alternatives out there. In the end, I said forget it. I went with the 'Minis' to save space and $$. Plus you can use one of them as a base to jack the car up. 219$ for the pair.

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Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Well that's the thing; because the oil pump was not able to build pressure, no oil was in there. So when I removed one of the plugs, there was no oil coming out. Now obviously, I had to be quick while injecting the assembly lube into the pump, since I was shooting it vertically from the bottom: quick inject, and quickly put back the plug (with some thread sealant). Here is a pic of the old pump, showing from which plug I decided to inject the lube. Easier on a bench than on the car!

 

Now, YMMV. You may not have to do this at all.

 

 

Regarding plugs, I really think it is best practice not to have the plugs in place so as to avoid minimum stress on bearings while oil pressure is building. Yes it sucks to do it (trust me, I did not want to do it). But I am glad I did. Plus, it is easy on your battery and starter too. Have your oil filter off, and crank the car. Wait for oil to come out. Once it is coming out. You're good. Put filter back, plugs back, a few more cranking and then go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh I know. I looked at all the alternatives out there. In the end, I said forget it. I went with the 'Minis' to save space and $$. Plus you can use one of them as a base to jack the car up. 219$ for the pair.

 

Man, the spark plug thing is making more sense to me the more I think about it. I don't really mind pulling the plugs, it's just the damn intercooler and mounts that annoy me lol.

 

Oh wow those aren't thaaaaat expensive. I really want to make a full size spare mount for my lifted obxt.

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Here is the final part I needed.

 

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After I got that and the belts on I started to fill the engine up with fluids.

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I'm going to use this oil for the first 500 miles then switch to motul.

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I'm going to make a youtube video about my first start but for thread purposes here's how it went. I started by trying to prime the oil pump with nothing disconnected other than the crank sensor. My weak battery wasn't giving the engine enough cranks and would slow down after about 6 turns. But still I thought it was weird that I wasn't getting oil pressure. I watched a youtube video then remembered the trick of taking the oil filter off, so I did that ANDDD bought an optima redtop battery. With the new battery in and the oil filter off I cranked the engine a few times, checked the pan and saw oil so I thought that should be good enough. I put the oil filter back on and within the first crank the oil light went off!!! Sweet. I cranked it a few more times for insurance. Then hooked up the crank sensor, cranked the engine and it fired up and idled perfect on the first try. It has a P1491 code for PVC and I think since I have the cobb turbo inlet and don't use the connector that comes with the stock inlet it's giving me the code. I think I will have the jump the connector or something but I don't remember seeing that in the installation instructions.

 

Anyays, I put about 30 miles on the car and it runs amazing and I can tell it wants to get up n go but I have only given it 4psi. The rear tires rub pretty bad so I'll try to pick up my roller from my friend this weekend to take care of that. Then I can put my te37s on for the warm days. My brembo rebuild kit/adapters/rotors come in next week too, going to powder coat them myself.

 

First place I drove the car to was the car wash, I hated seeing it dirty and I can't wash at home cause I have very hard water.

 

I am extremely happy with the results of the engine assembly and I am very glad it came together.

 

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Congratulations. Car looks great.

So it looks like you did not have to do what I described. That's good. You left the spark plugs in place during priming too?

Also, you bled the cooling system by placing your funnel kit on the radiator as shown on the pics? Usually, we place it at the highest point on the system which should be the cooling tank close to the turbo. But I guess if you don't have cooling issues, then you're good.

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Congratulations. Car looks great.

So it looks like you did not have to do what I described. That's good. You left the spark plugs in place during priming too?

Also, you bled the cooling system by placing your funnel kit on the radiator as shown on the pics? Usually, we place it at the highest point on the system which should be the cooling tank close to the turbo. But I guess if you don't have cooling issues, then you're good.

 

I called the shop who built my engine/trans and they said all I have to do it unplug the crank sensor and crank till oil light goes off. So yes I left the spark plugs in.

 

I did bleed the cooling system from the upper reservoir, I just happen to take that pic while initially filling the radiator. Took 2 jugs just to fill the rad then about a half for the rest of the system.

 

Congratulations! The car looks great!

 

Thanks man, I'm sooo happy, worked my ass off on this thing. All I want to do is driiiiiiive.

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Well, happy that it worked out without any drama in the end!

 

For the first 500 miles, I purposely modified the peak engine rpm in the tune. I think I selected a 4000 rpm threshold. So easy to rev these engines. Didn't want to risk it. Also modified the wastegate duty cycle table to make sure I won't accidentally hit too much boost. Sooo hard to refrain yourself to push it. At least it was hard for me. Also did a ton of engine braking to make sure the rings get a good seal, so as to avoid high oil consumption down the road. Most of these tips were suggested to me from a fellow forum member who's done some real nice engine builds. And you probably know all of this already.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Well, happy that it worked out without any drama in the end!

 

For the first 500 miles, I purposely modified the peak engine rpm in the tune. I think I selected a 4000 rpm threshold. So easy to rev these engines. Didn't want to risk it. Also modified the wastegate duty cycle table to make sure I won't accidentally hit too much boost. Sooo hard to refrain yourself to push it. At least it was hard for me. Also did a ton of engine braking to make sure the rings get a good seal, so as to avoid high oil consumption down the road. Most of these tips were suggested to me from a fellow forum member who's done some real nice engine builds. And you probably know all of this already.

 

Yep! I'm pretty much doing everything you listed but using self discipline as best as I can. I think I have done almost 200 miles now and its still good. Haven't past 4k rpm and hit 6psi max boost "accidentally" ;)

 

looks good.

 

which mishimoto radiator did you use?

 

Thank you, I used the X-Line

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My friend reminded me that I have TE37s so while flattening my back fenders a little more I figured I would put the TEs on since we don't have any rain forecasted for the next week. I remember I listed these wheels for sale but I am so glad they didn't sell. I love them.

 

After putting them on I got 2 subaru waves within 5 minutes, broke a couple kids necks and some guys asked if they could take photos while I was gassing up. It's crazy what a car wash and nice wheels will do lol. The exterior of this car is soooo basic but I like the simplicity.

 

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Edited by KevinEdgar
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This is an embarrassing moment but maybe someone can learn from reading this.

 

When I was connecting all the sensors around the engine, I noticed that since I have the cobb turbo inlet I don't need the PCV sensor thing. So I moved on but kept that in the back of my mind. I put the engine in, connect everything and think hmm, I SHOULD have an extra plug but I didn't. When I started the engine of course it had a P1491 - PCV function problem. I knew it was because I didn't have the sensor so I figured it was safe to drive and I did, put on about 250 miles now. This evening after work I decided to tackle this annoying job so I can get the car ready for emissions testing. I took the intercooler off and began to search for an empty plug. After about 30 minutes of searching and one occasion of burning my stomach on the hot radiator I thought maybe I had the wrong thing plugged in somewhere. So I looked around and immediately saw that there was an empty plug right below the main engine harness plug, meant for the A/F sensor. It happens to be the same exact 2 prong plug for the PCV sensor. I swapped the plug and plugged in the new PCV sensor (though not connected to anything), reset ECU and boom no code.

 

Anybody know how necessary that PCV sensor is? Does not seem important to me and the car runs fine with it just connected but not hooked up to the hoses.

 

Anyways, funny story but had to share

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My understanding is that this connector is just to let the ECU know the PCV is properly connected. That's it really. You also probably noticed that the connector is just acting as a short (no resistor, no sensor nothing).

 

I also got rid of the PCV valve and installed a Radium AOS. Could no longer stand the idea of sending oil vapor/residue to the intake manifold. I did keep that white connector though with the plug connected to it so the ECU remains happy.

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Are you talking about that white plug that goes on the inlet hose?

 

Yes! Exactly what I'm talking about.

 

My understanding is that this connector is just to let the ECU know the PCV is properly connected. That's it really. You also probably noticed that the connector is just acting as a short (no resistor, no sensor nothing).

 

I also got rid of the PCV valve and installed a Radium AOS. Could no longer stand the idea of sending oil vapor/residue to the intake manifold. I did keep that white connector though with the plug connected to it so the ECU remains happy.

 

Yeah I examined that sensor housing and noticed nothing inside so I figured it was useless, but the damn ECU wants it to remain hooked up.

 

I also just realized the sensor on the up pipe is not a A/F it's an EGT right?

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Not very exciting parts but I got a new undertray and cat heat shield. I got some awesome pics at the dealership when I picked them up cause I parked in the service bay line. But I took them on my phone since I didn't have my cam with me. I'm sure I'll find a reason to go back soon.

 

Also, my KNS brakes rear brembo adapter rotors came in and they are like 25lbs a piece, I get they are big but damn, I didn't think they'd be that heavy!!!

 

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for the outback or some other car?

 

Everything above is for my lowered outback.

 

How much was the undertray? I'm glad they still make these parts.

 

It was $82 and I’m so glad too. I don’t know why these parts excite me so much. The oil filter door had fell off a long time ago and it always bugged me.

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