Airbag light...sometimes. Console problem?

3rd time and still not fixed.

Not looking fwd to spending more money, but I think this is the part I need:

https://www.heubergersubaruparts.com/2007-Legacy-GT-spec-B-Map-lamp-p/84621ag41a-188430-686193.htm

Maybe?

Ended up just buying the part. Dash light went off for a while, but back on now. The overhead light works; shows airbag on/off depending if someone is sitting in the seat with the belt buckled.

Thoughts?

Dealer checked it out.

Here is what they said.

Codes 25, 26, 38. Diagnosed for 25. Connected test harness U to connector AB6 on air bag control module, and tested voltage at pin 6 on connector 2U of test harness. More than 10 volts with key on, grounded to chassis. Recommended replacing passenger air bag control module.

Part $455 + $550 in labor.

I called Subby corp and they are looking into this.

I'll get it fixed either way. Might end up selling as Stg 2, since a 17 WRX unexpectedly entered my life lol.

As an FYI, I ended up re-soldering, for the third time, and it finally worked. All the lights are working properly.

I did every connection, including the lights. When you are soldering the lights, give time for the solder to harder before going to the next connection. I've heard that the light can fall out if you heat up the other connection too fast . Ask me how I know!

So is it fair to say that if I don't know what you mean by flowing a connection I should just buy a new part? I have an 07 Legacy

Normally I'd say yes, but in this case, if you're comfortable wrenching on a car, I'd say spend the couple of bucks to buy a cheap soldering iron and spend the hour or two it will take to teach yourself how to solder. It's a useful skill to have. This fix is literally a 10 minute fix (going slow) from disassembly to reassembly if you're comfortable with a soldering iron.

Normally I'd say yes, but in this case, if you're comfortable wrenching on a car, I'd say spend the couple of bucks to buy a cheap soldering iron and spend the hour or two it will take to teach yourself how to solder. It's a useful skill to have. This fix is literally a 10 minute fix (going slow) from disassembly to reassembly if you're comfortable with a soldering iron.

Don't forget, the new part would be manufactured the same way as the old part which means lead-free solder that requires a higher temperature to melt. The reason for a number of failures is the solder has to be kept under the temperature where it would destroy the parts on the board but must be high enough to melt. The normal QA practices and tests tend to favour lower temperatures so you get cold solder joints that pass functional testing but will not withstand breakage due to differential thermal expansion of the solder and the circuit board. What you can do with the existing unit is use 63% tin / 37% lead solder and the temperature at which it flows will go down so you are in no danger of damaging the parts.

Go with reflowing the old part because the new part would have the same latent defect as the old part.

Go with reflowing the old part because the new part would have the same latent defect as the old part.

Yes, that's a very good point. Reflowing original factory PCB will be a permanent fix.

I'm been getting the airbag light 80% of the time in the past couple months. This weekend I took the overhead panel apart and soldered the little board back together. No light this morning on the way to work!

 

Edit: I snapped a few pictures while fixing mine, for anyone who worries this repair is beyond them.

 

1. Remove the map light cover (pry on the sides with your finger nails)

2. Remove the two philips screws holding the panel to the roof.

3. Remove the panel (it has 3 prongs that hold it against the headliner on the front edge)

 

4. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/crazy_pilot/2008%20Legacy%20Spec%20B/IMG_1214-1.jpg

 

5. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/crazy_pilot/2008%20Legacy%20Spec%20B/IMG_1213.jpg

 

6. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/crazy_pilot/2008%20Legacy%20Spec%20B/IMG_1210.jpg

 

7. Re-solder any other components you feel like. I did D1, R1 (the 511 guy), and all the resistors on the other side.

 

8. Put back together!

 

You don't need much experience soldering to take care of this, I've only done it a few times myself. Let the iron heat up, melt a decent amount of solder onto the tip, shake/tap to remove the excess, and then place the tip against the joint you want to fix. Once the board heats up enough the solder will flow down. I basically filled the corners with a nice little dot of solder on each one.

 

Second edit: I'm sorry if that last picture is sideways, Photobucket shows it straight and then upside down if I use the "rotate" function. Meh.

This did the trick for me!

Anyone know what kind of code scanner is needed to read airbag error codes? Amy thing out there that does not cost $1k. Tnx:wub:

iCarsoft i903 on Amazon. Currently $114.

https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-i903-Diagnostic-Multi-System-compatible/dp/B00TL5PMLW

iCarsoft i903 on Amazon. Currently $114.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-i903-Diagnostic-Multi-System-compatible/dp/B00TL5PMLW

Just wanted to say what's up TimothyOnline! I was reading this thread cause I'm having this issue, and saw your last comment and had to say hi when I saw your from Cville! That's my hometown! I currently live in Buffalo, NY now but come home a couple times a year

Was able to fix my issue with this method as well, and I'm a novice with the soldering iron. Thanks all.

I was getting the red airbag light in the console intermittently. The rest of the time on the overhead panel, the yellow "passenger airbag" light was toast, and I could only very faintly see the airbag disabled yellow light in the pitch dark garage. The yellow airbag enabled light was still working, as was the red passenger seat belt graphic.

Tackled it after dinner, re-soldered everything. I did not add any new solder. Hooked it back up and it lit up a christmas tree. So satisfying! The walkthrough and comments made it very easy and it doesn't take long.

I just performed this "fix," it worked like a charm!

The red "AirBag" light was on full time, the overhead lights were all dark, all the time.

I looked at the soldering on the surface mount resistors, they looked right nice.

I touched them up one corner at at time, was afraid of moving the resistor.

Reassembled everything, fired it up, the red "AirBag" light came on for a few seconds then went out. A cheer went out, my neighbors were non-plused.

Thanks all.