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wheels and caliper clearance


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So i went ahead and bought a set of brembos off rockauto and i think i have a set of brembo takeoff rears secured. Im trying to figure out wheel clearance which is NOT my forte. So according to research the stock 05 outback xt wheels have an offset of 48 and the 04-07 sti have an offset of 53. Does that mean i can clear brembos with a 5mm wheel spacer? I read an old thread talking about using a 7mm spacer but if i remember correctly that was just what he had available. Im trying to get away with as little spacer as possible.

 

also is anyone else having problems viewing the site on iphone? it shows up as a really basic mobile version that is pretty unusable.

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I can't answer the first part, but if the theme is messed up check the lower left hand corner and try to set the theme back to v3.0 or similar. If that doesn't work you need to delete the cookies for this site and then return. It usually happens when searching for answers through Google or similar and a theme is embedded in the results and in messes up the one we are used to.
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Thanks, that fixed it. I’ve been stuck in that for weeks now.

 

According to what I’ve found the offset is 48, which could well be wrong. I’ll have to dig more.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installed-brembo-grand-turismo-outback-46601.html?t=46601&highlight=brembo+outback

 

He used 15mm spacers and mentioned that 7mm would have been the better choice. I’d like to get away with as little spacer as possible.

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Thanks, that fixed it. I’ve been stuck in that for weeks now.

 

According to what I’ve found the offset is 48, which could well be wrong. I’ll have to dig more.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installed-brembo-grand-turismo-outback-46601.html?t=46601&highlight=brembo+outback

 

He used 15mm spacers and mentioned that 7mm would have been the better choice. I’d like to get away with as little spacer as possible.

 

oic. Most ppl going to brembo use after market wheels that have clearance at the spokes so you don't have to mess with spacers & longer studs. Spacers cause issues with the offset which effects scrub radius which affects steering. Getting a supportive wheel seems easier

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It does, and wheels are somewhere in the future. Of all the cars I’ve ever owned, I’ve only bought wheels for one of them. It was for my gto and they came off another gto . For some reason it’s always been a change I’ve struggled with pulling the trigger on.
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  • 2 weeks later...

stock wheels don't clear brembos. people have shaved the inside to fit, but the average user buys new wheels.

 

unless you have a hankering for brembos, you should know the stock lgt brakes with good pads and tires will outbrake most systems you can bolt on. Using crappy tires, both systems will suck equally

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I don’t have a hankering for Brembo’s haha, quite the opposite i was told SS lines with new pads would be insufficient for hard braking at high speed. So SS lines, remanufactured calipers, new pads, master cylinder brace? Feel free to correct or add info. Looking at centric posi-quiet front calipers, centric rotors (see different feedback on whether to go slotted, drilled and slotted, or neither), porter field rs-4 pads (not sure if those would fit calipers though.
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I don’t have a hankering for Brembo’s haha, quite the opposite i was told SS lines with new pads would be insufficient for hard braking at high speed. So SS lines, remanufactured calipers, new pads, master cylinder brace? Feel free to correct or add info. Looking at centric posi-quiet front calipers, centric rotors (see different feedback on whether to go slotted, drilled and slotted, or neither), porter field rs-4 pads (not sure if those would fit calipers though.

 

I tracked my wagon actively and aggressively, then drove it on the street in the same manner. Below based on those experiences. Your experience will be different. That said, taking a high performance driving class will do more for your braking performance than any parts change.

 

ss lines - everyone does them because high performance. I did it because I thought it more safe. ymmv.

remanufactured calipers - the oem units were good. The remanufactured stuff has varying levels of quality. stay stock stay happy.

pads - depending on your level of hype-needyness, get a good street pad. I used Hawk brand. Hawk HPS for street. Hawk HP+ for autox. Hawk DTC60/70 on track. Street pads can be a bit scary when cold. The others are down right scary unless warm.

master cylinder brace - pure bling. By the time you get in a situation where it matters, you have replaced the components that it would affect. just say no.

rotors - blanks are good. Drilled/slotted is super old tech that made up for pad design. Pads design has long made this redundant. pure bling. I used Centric cryo blanks. I used up a set of blanks every 4 track days, so cost was an important part. I had a pair of dba4000's. They lasted 4 days.

 

pads that are for your car fit the oem caliper.

tires have the biggest impact on braking. Crappy tires with brembos will suck hard compared to sticky summers on oem brakes.

 

oem system with good pads is good for 160mph about 6 times. That's enough jail time for anyone :)

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Red or black, whatever brush on caliper paint the auto parts store has in stock. There's a local powder coater that will do them for like $150/set but I have to bring them disassembled and reasonably prepped.
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How disassembled? Stock brembos appear to be coated while assembled. Asked an online company for a quote in the stock bronze metallic and got $670. Uh yeah not for me. I’d you’re looking for “reasonably prepped” I’d start with the rockauto raw aluminum
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That's what I have. They were about $120 each, NuGeon branded boxes. The castings are a little rough, but good enough for what they are, and price point. I don't intend on putting them on a show car.

 

I'm sure the powder coating guy is used to FloridaMan bringing in crusty, greasy, old parts fresh from the pick-n-pull.

Edited by Rusty9
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