PO2096 spec b

Mods list below.. so I was cruising at about 40 in fifth gear when the check engine light came on. Pulled over immediately and checked it to find a PO2096 thrown. I have done an extensive amount of research and found a bunch of people going down the route of replacing sensors and such with no Avail. I figured before I go the same path I should go into the manual and start down the flow chart Subaru has provided. At step 5 (I believe), they had me check pin 8 and 9 on one of the connectors at the ecm to ground...pin 9 was below the specs at 1milliohm. The suggestion was the fix the ground fault short in the harness between the ecm and front O2 sensor. I am looking at the harness between the two and it looks flawless. I started with some simple connection areas that may have been suspect but they are so clean and nothing has been disturbed. I really don’t want to start breaking into this wiring harness if nothing is wrong with it. My questions are, is there something else that could be causing this? A poor connection inside the front O2, something in the ecm. Where might I even start looking for this ground fault? Should I assume it’s good and move to the next step? My resistance is in the killiohms on either pin 8 or 9. Cant quite remember but one is within spec. If someone with time could measure theirs? I don’t expect it but worth a shot. I have also been experiencing fluctuations in a/f ratio at idle so maybe I’m on to something. Maybe some suggestions on where to start looking. I’m just rambling at this point. Thanks in advance.

 

- 7500 on engine build

-year 2008

-6 Speed manual

-COBB Top Feed 1050x Fuel Injectors

-Stock Rebuilt EJ255 Spec B w/ race bearings

-11mm oil pump with Stock heads by Outfront Motorsports

-Custom turbo upgrade VF52 20g PNP and Powder coated with upgraded 1bar/14psi wastegate by SoCal porting

-Modified stock TGV Deletes PNP by SoCal Porting

-Process West Vert Mount TMIC

-Mach 2 Recirculating valve

- Invidia Big Tube Header - INV -HS05SW1HDP

- Invidia Downpipe Catted Divorced Wastegate - INV HS08SW1DOC

-Invidia Q300 Catback Exhaust INV HS05SL1GT3

-Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator - MIS MMRAD-STI-08

-Mishimoto Radiator Hose Kit Black Subaru MIS MMHOSE-STI-08BK COBB

-Top Feed 1050x Fuel Injectors (312150) -COBB Silicone Turbo Inlet (724400-BK)

-COBB SF intake system (724100)

-COBB SF Airbox (724150)

-COBB 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) (715750)

-AEM High Flow Fuel Pump (315450)

-Grimspeed Phenolic spacers 8mm NGK spark plugs GK-2309

-Stock Sti Cluch and Flywheel,

-Air Pump Delete

when you decide its time for a front O2 sensor, see post 172

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html

My thinking also is front O2. They can cause so damn many problems and don't buy a cheap one or you'll be buying another OE one shortly after.

Funny you guys say that, I just replaced it about a month ago with oreilly Denso. Can their product vary that much? Edited July 4, 2019 by boostaru

Here is what happened in my quest for a cure.... lol

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D266511&share_tid=266511&share_fid=5383&share_type=t

 

Scotty

Thanks Scotty the difference is that I’m getting just the one code. I think I might just bite the bullet and get a OE Denso then continue down the flow chart. I’m really curious to see how fuel pressure and other systems are behaving. I just got stuck on this resistance issue, started breaking into a beautiful wiring harness and getting overwhelmed. Wanting to fix the resistance issue I just have no idea how. The wires quickly become lost in a massive bundle that’s really well packaged.

Thanks Scotty the difference is that I’m getting just the one code. I think I might just bite the bullet and get a OE Denso then continue down the flow chart. I’m really curious to see how fuel pressure and other systems are behaving. I just got stuck on this resistance issue, started breaking into a beautiful wiring harness and getting overwhelmed. Wanting to fix the resistance issue I just have no idea how. The wires quickly become lost in a massive bundle that’s really well packaged.

For the longest time, I was getting the one (2096) code. The 303 didnt come into play almost a year later. The 2096 wasn't a constant issue hence the length if time in finding thee fix for my case.

 

What I'm trying to say is that there could be something else in the mix that's causing the 2096 to come up and it's just not rearing its ugly head....

 

Scotty

Funny you guys say that, I just replaced it about a month ago with oreilly Denso. Can their product vary that much?

 

I think what we're saying is that for most, the new front O2 fix's most of these problems.

For the longest time, I was getting the one (2096) code. The 303 didnt come into play almost a year later. The 2096 wasn't a constant issue hence the length if time in finding thee fix for my case.

 

What I'm trying to say is that there could be something else in the mix that's causing the 2096 to come up and it's just not rearing its ugly head....

 

Scotty

 

Based on that ^ may be a can of Sea Foam or is it Berryman B12 fuel system cleaner may help. Both can be bought from walmart.

Hey guys just got the new o2 sensor and I think I’m going to have to splice in the female connector. Is soldering the connections ok to do here? I feel like if I do it closer to the connection side it won’t get nearly hot enough to melt solder.

Buy only OEM O2 sensors, the rest are shit and don't last as long. I've had the experience and I change them in friends cars all the time

I believe I did get the oem sensor. At least it’s the one Max Capacity recommended and from my research it is oem.

I would think soldering will be fine. If you want, wrap the joint with some insulation like they make for old V8's spark plug wires. Summit Racing or Jeg's may have something.

 

These guys may have something too. I have their gold foil under my turbo heat shield.

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=SAFETY

Went ahead and soldered it because I didn’t want to wait for another part. I am seeing much more stable afr, corrections and learnings after doing this. It’s weird because I replaced it with a Denso that did match up perfectly. The car ran the same after it so I never thought it was the o2. The only difference was I got that one from O’Reilly. Not the first time I have bought shoddy things from there. I replaced my moms clutch master cylinder twice and both times it started leaking shortly after eventually leaving my mom stranded. Went Oem and problem solved. Also an alternator once. I have sworn to never buy parts from them again but figured it’s a Denso it’s gotta be good right? Anyway I also put a can of 44k in. If I don’t revive this thread that means problem solved. One thing I have noticed is there isn’t a slight dip in rpm when I snap the throttle at idle.