What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Honestly, i don't have much laying around (hoarded). For future use i've got a subaru-spec sti twinscroll setup modded for stock tmic use, some jdm tgv housings... and that's it!

 

Have more parts i don't have plans for: avo tmic, avo rear sway, gs mcb, extra twinscroll headers and dp...

Honestly, i don't have much laying around (hoarded). For future use i've got a subaru-spec sti twinscroll setup modded for stock tmic use, some jdm tgv housings... and that's it!

 

Have more parts i don't have plans for: avo tmic, avo rear sway, gs mcb, extra twinscroll headers and dp...

 

 

 

You've got an extra master cylinder brace? Don't hold it back, let it fly free, into the community, to me if it's vdc lol.

 

I don't have much waiting after selling some stuff. Front oe axle, lgt steering rack and front brakes, front sway bar.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m up over $30k aftermarket. Shoulda boutght that NSX I wanted back in ‘09

Trade you your oe front axle (5mt turbo? Green cup?) For the mcb. It is vdc. I think we have twin cars actually.

I might have 10k in my parts hoard.

 

Converted my second bedroom into parts storage and it's full.

 

Probably shouldn't have said that out loud.

Recently had a lil fiasco at my garage of 5+ years chasing down a misfire on all four cylinders. Long story short, they took a long time to get to the root of the problem, had horrible communication throughout process(untypical), and when I finally got my wagon the tank was on E and windshield scratched to s**t from the wash they gave her. Replaced the windshield next day, no hassle. Points for that, however it will be the end of my loyal patronage. Been delaying the tallying and print-out of every service request and penny spent at the shop, bc I honestly don’t want to see it all spelled out and totaled up. Love has no price tag. But I do owe myself a straight forward cost/benefit analysis now that the car will be a dedicated people mover, firstborn due in September. Laughed at the car seat hookups at purchase, now thankful I have them and a boot big enough for strollers and such. Wagons ftw.

Trade you your oe front axle (5mt turbo? Green cup?) For the mcb. It is vdc. I think we have twin cars actually.

 

 

 

Haha well I think the aftermarket axle is what's causing my shaking. It doesn't have the 3 dimples on it. I'm waiting to move and for pdxammo to ship it and the steering rack to me. So that one needs to stay with me.

 

I do believe we do. QSM obxt 5mt.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did some HPD

 

Finally =got around to replacing the clutch in the ole unicorn.

 

Still had a dual mass setup in there, and the Sachs branded clutch is certainly not the Exedy Stage 1 that was claimed to be in it. That clutch setup did take a pretty surprising amount of aggressive driving somewhat frequently for nearly 7 years and 70k miles.

 

New 07+ OEM clutch setup is now in. It feels so friggin weird. Not sure I like it, but we shall see how long it takes to get used to it and if it changes any during break in.

 

Still need to address the front CVs. I was scoping out parts on Heuberger and noticed that SOA sells the whole joint. Might be the hot ticket to repair what is needed without shelling out 350 per side for a new axle.

 

Noticed the RH ball joint has a little play and a torn boot. That will have to be addressed as well. IT might be a good excuse to get the Whiteline roll center correction kit, but that seems a bit much with only being lowered on STi Pinks. I haven't ever noticed any significant bumpsteer, but perhaps there are some gains to be had with regard to negative camber gain during compression. Still a laughable amount compared to SALA setups.

 

It has been going through oil pretty fast for a couple years now. I am sure it burns some just from the deposits I have seen on the spark plugs, but it seems to leak quite a bit too. Noticed the bottom RH side of the engine was pretty wet with oil, and it seemed to be coming from up front. Pulled the timing cover to investigate, and noticed that it looks like the AVCS cam gear is wet, so that will be more $$$ to replace the cam phasers. Might as well start ordering timing belt stuff to go with since I am at that next replacement interval.

 

Finally gave the poor thing a bath now that spring seems to be on its way.

 

Ole #8 is still kicking. Still cheaper than the monthly payment on a new car...

 

Having a tough time getting the 4 bolts behind the rear wheel bearings out.. my 14mm + extension + ratchet won't budge and there's 2 bolts it can't get to, so I have to use the 3/8" socket, but even at that there's barely any room in there.. what's the secret sauce?

Kroil, and smacking the ratchet handle with a sledge worked for me. Still sucked.

I think I just used pb blaster and a 6 pointed socket. I think I also had to use weird combinations of extensions, but I was able to get a 14 on all of them.

 

Mine weren't too bad. One hand on the end of the 18" breaker bar and the other pressing in the back of the head to make sure I didn't round the bolt.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

it was yesterday but i changed my blower motor resistor. (its more of a control module)

Did some HPD

 

 

That was a hoot to watch

Y’all don’t want to see my spreadsheet of shame. Worth every penny to me. Took my Wagon to Home Depot Saturday. Was fantastic as usual, bouncing off the rev limiter with a full load of supplies.

Having a tough time getting the 4 bolts behind the rear wheel bearings out.. my 14mm + extension + ratchet won't budge and there's 2 bolts it can't get to, so I have to use the 3/8" socket, but even at that there's barely any room in there.. what's the secret sauce?

 

 

Ingersoll Rand W7150 (or any quality electric impact). Worth every penny and has made wheel bearing changes a routine 30 minute job. I've changed 6 between my dad's car and mine. This thing has paid for itself multiple times now. I use it with Tekton impact sockets and an impact universal joint - have no interference issues with all 4 corners.

I welcomed a new vehicle into the fleet this weekend, replacing the '03 Olds Silhouette rustmobile.

The van had many many issues and the slipping transmission finally pushed me over the edge.

Replacing it with a 15 year old Miata seemed like a reasonable thing to do, especially considering our 6th child is due in a couple months.

Edited March 9, 2020 by StkmltS

Ingersoll Rand W7150 (or any quality electric impact). Worth every penny and has made wheel bearing changes a routine 30 minute job. I've changed 6 between my dad's car and mine. This thing has paid for itself multiple times now. I use it with Tekton impact sockets and an impact universal joint - have no interference issues with all 4 corners.

 

Seconded. This has been one of my best investments. Never met anything it hasn't been able to loosen, or in some cases, shear into bits

 

On-topic: my new South Bend Stg2 daily clutch came in over the weekend. Planning on just resurfacing the flywheel and re-using it... anyone have any reason not to do so? It should be the STi SMFW, so no issues there.

 

snm95ls: Seems you likely had an OEM clutch (factory dual-mass FW was made by Sachs).

Went to install Brembos, and found out that the front hardlines wanted to twist off, and the KNS rear brackets I've had sitting around forever don't fit the LGT Ended up test fitting the fronts, which turned out to clear my no-name winter wheels just fine. Going to do everything once the brackets come in, probably Ni-Copp all the lines.

 

And......went in on a small shop with two friends. Lift coming soon, super stoked. Going to pay as much for a month here as I did for 3 days at the rent-a-stall.

Edited March 9, 2020 by awfulwaffle

Seconded. This has been one of my best investments. Never met anything it hasn't been able to loosen, or in some cases, shear into bits

 

On-topic: my new South Bend Stg2 daily clutch came in over the weekend. Planning on just resurfacing the flywheel and re-using it... anyone have any reason not to do so? It should be the STi SMFW, so no issues there.

 

 

Any time I've heard complaints about SB clutches was with a resurfaced FW.

 

Make sure the machine shop you are using con resurface properly.

 

I'd just buy new and avoid the hassle.

On the way to her pre-school this morning, my 3-y.o. puked all over herself. Some little drops here and there got on the leather, which thankfully is pretty easy to clean.

 

The bigger concern is that on the way back home, the car developed a pronounced shaking in the steering wheel at 40+ mph, which got progressively worse with time (not necessarily with increased vehicle speed). When I came to the stoplight at the end of my off-ramp, I detected the familiar odor (one loved by track guys) of hot brakes. Pulled into my driveway, driver's front wheel was quite noticeably hotter than the other three.

 

Got the puke-covered kid extracted from the vehicle and handed her off to wifey, who already had a bath prepared. Took the kid's seat out, wiped off some vomit, drove 45 mostly highway miles into work and the car behaved fine. So it seems the car has an intermittently sticking driver's front caliper. I had rebuilt all four calipers with fresh seals & boots around 112K miles ago (currently at 228K) and even back then the pistons were looking a bit gnarly on the outside (internal surfaces were fine). Thinking I might go with reman'ed calipers this time versus rebuilding them again. Not sure.

On the way to her pre-school this morning, my 3-y.o. puked all over herself. Some little drops here and there got on the leather, which thankfully is pretty easy to clean.

 

The bigger concern is that on the way back home, the car developed a pronounced shaking in the steering wheel at 40+ mph, which got progressively worse with time (not necessarily with increased vehicle speed). When I came to the stoplight at the end of my off-ramp, I detected the familiar odor (one loved by track guys) of hot brakes. Pulled into my driveway, driver's front wheel was quite noticeably hotter than the other three.

 

Got the puke-covered kid extracted from the vehicle and handed her off to wifey, who already had a bath prepared. Took the kid's seat out, wiped off some vomit, drove 45 mostly highway miles into work and the car behaved fine. So it seems the car has an intermittently sticking driver's front caliper. I had rebuilt all four calipers with fresh seals & boots around 112K miles ago (currently at 228K) and even back then the pistons were looking a bit gnarly on the outside (internal surfaces were fine). Thinking I might go with reman'ed calipers this time versus rebuilding them again. Not sure.

 

Honestly remans are pretty dang cheap and I think NAPA ones come with a lifetime warranty. I have a set to rebuild but I'm not sure it's really worth the extra $30 or so you save.

Went to install Brembos, and found out that the front hardlines wanted to twist off, and the KNS rear brackets I've had sitting around forever don't fit the LGT Ended up test fitting the fronts, which turned out to clear my no-name winter wheels just fine. Going to do everything once the brackets come in, probably Ni-Copp all the lines.

 

And......went in on a small shop with two friends. Lift coming soon, super stoked. Going to pay as much for a month here as I did for 3 days at the rent-a-stall.

 

Shop looks sweet. I'm pretty jealous. Was cleaning and painting a valve cover over the weekend and all I could think about was a garage and a parts sink. My roommates were not stoked on the baking enamel smell from the oven either....

Any time I've heard complaints about SB clutches was with a resurfaced FW.

 

Make sure the machine shop you are using con resurface properly.

 

I'd just buy new and avoid the hassle.

 

When I had mine installed Mike at Infamous told me the same thing, so I bought a new FW instead of resurfacing.

the KNS rear brackets I've had sitting around forever don't fit the LGT

 

You got aluminum trailing arms, or were they just the ancient KNS brackets?