What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

What were you running?

2qts Motul 300 + 1.9qts of lightweight shockproof.

I think the difficult shifting might be a combo of things. Possibly synchros, maybe a bad master as well (kind of squeeky). If I pump the pedal at a stop it goes into first a little easier. I have a new master and braided line to put in, but I stop working on cars once the temp drops below 40 unless it's an emergency.

The clutch also has a really strange problem I've never felt in 22 years of driving manuals. It engages fine, but then right before it fully bites it feels like it slips and then grabs again, but it happens really fast. It was changed before I bought the car at 72k and it has 80.5k now. No info on if the flywheel was changed or what parts were used.

2qts Motul 300 + 1.9qts of lightweight shockproof.

 

I think the difficult shifting might be a combo of things. Possibly synchros, maybe a bad master as well (kind of squeeky). If I pump the pedal at a stop it goes into first a little easier. I have a new master and braided line to put in, but I stop working on cars once the temp drops below 40 unless it's an emergency.

 

The clutch also has a really strange problem I've never felt in 22 years of driving manuals. It engages fine, but then right before it fully bites it feels like it slips and then grabs again, but it happens really fast. It was changed before I bought the car at 72k and it has 80.5k now. No info on if the flywheel was changed or what parts were used.

Do the clutch damper delete in the thread below. It is the single most important mod on the these cars for drivability. Everything you described will go away and you will have consistent clutch engagement with vastly improved feel.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clutch-damper-valve-delete-223235.html?t=223235&highlight=clutch+damper+delete

If I had to choose only a single modification to make to my car, that would probably be it. I'm not as far down the rabbit hole as some other members (and with my timing belt interval coming up in ~500 miles, I can see that rabbit hole deepening), but it's hard to overstate how much of an improvement it makes.

Also, if you wouldn't mind, report back on how that transmission fluid cocktail works out for you in the cold. I'm running straight Motulgear 300 at the moment, and I'd say dropping down into 2nd is a little more difficult than the factory fill was until things warm up a little. I've never been able to get back into 1st at anything over about 5 MPH without double-clutching, and since I'm awful at double-clutching, I just settle for taking off extra slow in 2nd. My Baja feels almost identical in that regard, so that might just be a fact of life for these transmissions.

A number of folks have pulled the damper in the clutch line inside the footwell to improve clutch feel/function as well (I still have mine in, but if you search you can find some info on who has done it and the results they got)

Do the clutch damper delete in the thread below. It is the single most important mod on the these cars for drivability. Everything you described will go away and you will have consistent clutch engagement with vastly improved feel.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clutch-damper-valve-delete-223235.html?t=223235&highlight=clutch+damper+delete

I did the damper delete right after I bought the car.

If I had to choose only a single modification to make to my car, that would probably be it. I'm not as far down the rabbit hole as some other members (and with my timing belt interval coming up in ~500 miles, I can see that rabbit hole deepening), but it's hard to overstate how much of an improvement it makes.

 

 

Also, if you wouldn't mind, report back on how that transmission fluid cocktail works out for you in the cold. I'm running straight Motulgear 300 at the moment, and I'd say dropping down into 2nd is a little more difficult than the factory fill was until things warm up a little. I've never been able to get back into 1st at anything over about 5 MPH without double-clutching, and since I'm awful at double-clutching, I just settle for taking off extra slow in 2nd. My Baja feels almost identical in that regard, so that might just be a fact of life for these transmissions.

My previous fill was with straight gear 300 and I noticed the same thing. Right now I'm using subaru's "high performance" gear oil and its the same smoothness at all temperatures. The trans seems to whine a lot less too.

After many, many months of waiting, one replacement engine that was DOA, a few more months of waiting and finally a 2nd replacement engine, car finally has an engine again. Also has some nice Kein engine mounts now as well. I see how they mean that our engine mounts are actually trans mounts. Update pictures the guy doing the sent me, should hopefully have my car back and driving this week.

Did the pre-winter wash and wax two days ago and today finally installed the Rally Armor UR mud-flaps that have been sitting in the garage for 4.5 years (!).

Is your car lowered? I was test fitting mine and they sit really low with the 1” Koni/Eibach setup.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got around to installing the replacement puddle light. I had installed a replaceable fuse setup to replace the sealed one that blew a couple months ago.

It is sealed up better than the originals, but time will tell how it holds up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is your car lowered? I was test fitting mine and they sit really low with the 1” Koni/Eibach setup.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock height. Front and rear both around 2.5”:

Ok, Thank you. I'll have to go out and do some checking. They were installed on my Outback and was wondering what would be different.

Edit:

I just checked and the flaps are different. Never realized that. I figured they just mounted differently.

Legacy:

http://www.rallyarmor.com/images/mf14_ur_grey.jpg

Outback:

http://www.rallyarmor.com/images/mf16_ur_silver.jpg

I.

DROVE.

IT.

promptly to a 7-11 to participate in the recent photo trend lol.

Engine is healthy and alive. Just enjoying being back with it again finally.

yesss glad to hear it's back on the road. feel at home again?

To the point that I just drove to my favorite parking garage overlook spot and just sat there for a couple hours.

Mine was one week short of 6 months. I was about ready to expire lol.

What have you been driving?

What have you been driving?

Bought a 3rd gen in June.

Well....the weather is changing up here in BC, forecast for tomorrow is mixed rain and snow so I decided it was time to switch the wheels and tires over to my Nokian snow tires. This also coincided with my decision to have the OZ rims refinished due to the issue with matching the paint color after Costco screwed up one of me rims. They slobbered bead seal all over the one rim and then tried to clean it off with some kind of solvent (my guess) so I had tried to repaint it to match the rest, but it was never quite right and this past year some of the paint started flaking off....UGLY!

I contemplated switching to WRX/STi gold and Humble Rumble was kind enough to photoshop a picture for me to get a look at my car with gold wheels.....looked good. After some serious thought I decided to stay with Brilliant Silver as the center caps are chrome and the pin-stripe line on my car is silver to match the wheels. Dropped the wheels off today and will get them back next week so they can sit in my basement until next spring.....Not cheap but I couldn't stand looking at the miss-matched rims any more.

Make sure they use a low temp powder, overcooking aluminum wheels in a powder oven can make them brittle. IIRC about 350 degrees is about as hot as you want them, normal powder gets baked at 400 or 450.

Thanks Joe....no powder coat at this shop. They do a complete strip and any repairs needed then 3 part paint to the desired color. I looked at powder coating a few years ago when the wheel finish was trashed by Costco and even the shops I spoke to didn't want to touch OZ rims....same problems with the heat issues.

I started using Greens for all the machine work back when I was racing sports cars and rallying...great outfit...Just not cheap

https://www.greensautomotive.com/

This will give you an idea how long they've been working on my cars....this is a pic of me in an autocross 54 years ago and those are a set of wheels made by Greens for my TR-3...also fabbed up most of the suspension bits and a few of my engine mods.

PS....should have added that my timing was impeccable this time....weather forecast was what got me off the couch on this.....got up this morning to about 4" of wet west coast snow

Didn't do it yet, but i am replacing the PCV valve this weekend. The manual says to use Three Bond 1324, is there another equivalent that can be used? Also, the manual calls for a liquid gasket, but from what i've read the Three Bond 1324 is more of a thread lock

From what I read it is equivalent to loctite 243 , can anyone confirm? Thanks

Subaru publishes equivalents.

3M™ HighStrength Threadlocker 08730 is the equivalent for Three Bond 1324.