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EJ 2.5i valve lash adjustment?


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Sorry to bring this one up again, but I've seen conflicting info online in regards to valve lash adjustment for new SOHC 2.5i's.

 

I've seen some mention of shim-less bucket lash adjustment for newer EJ's, but I don't understand how that applies to a modern day SOHC EJ253. I'm familiar with shim/bucket setups for direct acting DOHC's, never seen it for SOHC.

 

To further muddy the waters, from what I can see, there's no mention of lash adjustment in the manual for my 2012 Legacy 2.5i. Not even a "check only if noisy". I assume this applies to all 2010-2012's.

 

Here's a pic I borrowed online supposedly of a 2007 Legacy EJ 2.5i cylinder head. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Subaru+Cylinder+Head+&_trksid=p5197.c0.m627 You can clearly see the screw and jamb-nut lash adjusters at each valve? As far as I know, it's gotta be the same for 2010-2012, yet no service recommendations?

 

Can anyone confirm this is how it is for present-day SOHC 2.5i EJ's?

 

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/EJ25i.jpg

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It's the same setup for the 2012 2.5i (the service manual shows how to adjust the valves, but no mention is made there or in the periodic maintenance section of a time/mileage interval at which point you should check them.)
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Thanks.

 

So the SOHC 2.5's from the 1990's until 2012 are basically unchanged and can have the lash adjusted manually with just basic tools.

 

Really odd that the official service manual and owner's manual state NOTHING in regards to a service interval on this. Looks like they're basically set to ~0.008" / 0.010" intake/exhaust.

 

Joel

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After some poking around, best I can tell is Subaru has never listed a maintenance interval for lash adjustment on the SOHC EJ's.

 

I know of some with over 200Kmi that have never been looked at and sounded/ran fine.

 

You touch them only if you have to I guess.

 

Joel

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While we're on this topic, is it normal for these cars to have valve noise at low speed, low RPM? (eg: parking lot speed, 1200 - 1500rpm)

 

The valve noise is loud enough to hear a clacking inside my vehicle with windows up, but since it has done it since it was new I figured it was yet another Subaru annoyance. Do they all do this?

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While we're on this topic, is it normal for these cars to have valve noise at low speed, low RPM? (eg: parking lot speed, 1200 - 1500rpm)

 

The valve noise is loud enough to hear a clacking inside my vehicle with windows up, but since it has done it since it was new I figured it was yet another Subaru annoyance. Do they all do this?

 

Some OHC engines are more tappy sounding than others. You pretty much have to compare it to an identical vehicle to see/hear if yours is a problem or not.

 

Joel

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While we're on this topic, is it normal for these cars to have valve noise at low speed, low RPM? (eg: parking lot speed, 1200 - 1500rpm)

 

The valve noise is loud enough to hear a clacking inside my vehicle with windows up, but since it has done it since it was new I figured it was yet another Subaru annoyance. Do they all do this?

 

My car sounds like a tractor in this range. Very noticeable valve clatter. Has done it since I got it. I've always assumed it's normal.

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  • 2 months later...

I went to this section because I believe that my valves need adjustment. The car makes a crackling noise when warm when accelerating through a turn (for instance) under about 3/4 throttle. In prior cars, without hydraulic valve lifters, this would be resolved by doing a valve adjustment.

 

Has anyone had a similar experience?

 

 

How much should a dealer charge for a valve adjustment?

 

 

Also when does the timing belt need to be replaced?

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How much should a dealer charge for a valve adjustment?

Not sure - that's going to depend on the region. I haven't had to do valves on a subaru, just on inline engines - I would imagine the book rate is 3 or 4 hours, though - so maybe $300-400? Just call a couple of places and ask.

Also when does the timing belt need to be replaced?
Helps to know what you are driving, but most Subarus specify the timing belt at 105k miles. (if you have the H6, I believe it has a chain, though)
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My car sounds like a tractor in this range. Very noticeable valve clatter. Has done it since I got it. I've always assumed it's normal.

 

Same here, under light throttle, there is a noticeable clatter being transmitted into the cabin, I chalked it up to my recent install of the group N trans mount, somewhat reassuring to hear that others are experiencing this as well.

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  • 1 year later...

Brand new here and also to Subarus. Please excuse the apparent stupidity but I’m capable of learning.

 

I realize this is somewhat of an old thread but it pertains to my problem. My head looks like the one in the picture.

 

Here’s the story:

I bought a wrecked 2011 Subaru Legacy Premium, 2.5 engine, that was hit in the front. The car was likely driving down the road, engine running when it got hit because a couple of valves on the left bank (driver’s side) were bent. Took the head off and replaced the valves. This engine has some sort of funky intake rocker system. While taking it apart, the intake rocker arm assembly came apart and all the little cups and springs were on the floor. Oops!

 

I put them back together as I thought it would be but guess I was wrong. Put the head back on and tried to fire it up. No go, sounded funny. Ran a compression check and wasn’t good, so pulled the head off again. Sure enough, 2 more bent valves. CRAP!

 

Replaced valves (again), put head back on, put rockers back on, timing belt on and turned it over with breaker bar by hand this time. Felt resistance so stopped immediately.

 

Obviously I don’t know what I’m doing and need help. That’s why I’m here. I’ve not seen a setup like these intake rockers before. What’s the “trick” on the intake rocker arms and/or exhaust so I can get this fixed properly once and for all? Is that my problem, that I’ve messed up something in the “re-assembly” of the rockers that’s holding the valves open and thereby bending them? Or is it due to something else maybe? Any other possibilities?

 

Again, sorry to appear so stupid but I admit I simply don’t know and need you guy’s help. Thank you, Thank you! (Please be gentle on this newbie. :lol: )

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If you are sure you have the valves installed and lashed correctly, are you sure that the timing belt is going on correctly? These are interference engines, so if the timing belt is not installed correctly the valves will hit the piston and get bent.

 

I don't mean to be condescending, but it seems a little like you might be in over your head here. ;)

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GTEASER, thanks for the reply. No offense taken, I'm not so vain as to think I know everything. :lol: That's why I'm here, to learn, even obvious things that I might have overlooked. Actually, I know my way around a wrench somewhat, but I had a professional mechanic doing the work, I was simply an observer.

 

Neither my mechanic or I are familiar with Subarus, but it's still a head and lifters, so basics should apply. I guess what we're concerned about is did we re-assemble the intake rocker assembly correctly since it came apart. I could find no information or exploded view on the cups, springs and pistons, so its something of a guess on how those go together.

 

If anyone has information and/or exploded view on that intake rocker assembly, at least we can be sure that part is done properly to eliminate that possibly being the cause of our problem. ANY information, even dumb, obvious things are appreciated. Thank you again!

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Do you have the factory service manual? It has all the exploded views, service info such as torque specs, etc. You can order one in PDF format off EBay for $7-$12 or search "vacation pics" here on the forum and you may find a PDF file.
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  • 2 years later...
I would say under normal driving conditions, no. If you have some major engine work done probably, or if you have 200k miles on your car, again probably. This is definitely a case of "if it's not broke don't fix it". An engine in need of valve adjustment will be noticeably noisier and probably down slightly on power.
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