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P0011 code after upgrade


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Ok so let me give you some background. I found a boost leak at my turbo inlet. After doing the tests. I forgot to put my oil fill cap on. Drove about 15 miles came home. I put the cap on and no oil had spilled out. Checked the oil and is fine So today I went to put on my turbo inlet. Was the worst install of my life FYI. Don’t do it unless you have to. So anyway. I had to take the Intercooler off. When I was done I put it back on with the same gasket. So I went for a drive and my boost was way better. 14.95 psi stage 1. Target is 14.5. So I don’t feel as tho that is too high. It’s a little elevated but doesn’t seem too bad. My fuel trims though seem higher than before. I will post a pic at the bottom. When I returned from the test drive. I decided to scan for codes. I got a P0011. A code I have never gotten before this install. So can anyone tell me what nah have caused this and what I should do to fix it?

 

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You may have gotten something in your oil. Pull the banjo bolts and check the filters if you haven't pulled them already.

 

 

 

It may be a coincidence that your RH ocv may have failed. Swap it with the LH ocv, clear the code and drive your car a short distance to see if the code follows you to the other side. If it does replace and it should solve your problem.

 

 

 

If you have pulled the banjo bolts drain your oil and inspect it for any loose material that isn't oil. Do an oil change clear the code and hope for the best.

 

 

 

I pulled the banjo bolt under the intake and it had no filter. I have searched many threads with conflicted answers. Where is the second? Is it by the turbo? I saw tutorials that it is below a bracket in the turbo but others are saying it’s on the drivers side.

 

 

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Duty cycle on my right side was 48%. After about 20 min it went up to 57%. WOT it was at 70. Idle it was 9.4%.

 

Pulled the right side ocv but it looks new. I ordered a new one anyway. Hopefully I just looks new and is really broken. The internals has movement also.

f4c2e8f2c31e8e68749fd5e00116d28f.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Since you’re using an AP you’ll want to compare left and right ocv duty and left and right avcs. Did that code turn the mil on or did you just scan to see if anything was going on in the background? If the code didn’t trip the mil and you haven’t already reset the ecu, I’d do that first and see if it comes back. Did you happen to unplug it while working on the inlet? Was key on while working on it?

 

The easiest way to diagnose bad ocv (as stated above) is to swap left with right and see if you get a p0021 instead. If you do get p0021 it’s safe to say bad ocv.

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Since you’re using an AP you’ll want to compare left and right ocv duty and left and right avcs. Did that code turn the mil on or did you just scan to see if anything was going on in the background? If the code didn’t trip the mil and you haven’t already reset the ecu, I’d do that first and see if it comes back. Did you happen to unplug it while working on the inlet? Was key on while working on it?

 

The easiest way to diagnose bad ocv (as stated above) is to swap left with right and see if you get a p0021 instead. If you do get p0021 it’s safe to say bad ocv.

 

 

 

Yeah I was actually scanning for lean codes. I did a turbo inlet this weekend because my fuel trims were high. Fixed the problem w that. Sure wish the code had popped earlier because my banjo is right below the inlet. It was nightmare to get in and attach hoses. Now I’m afraid to pull it back out. Anyway. Yeah the rh was running higher than left. Was 57 at cruise 70 at wot. I probably should have swapped them but I have a new one in the way and the car is all taken apart. Prob just throw the new one on and hopefully get the banjo by taking out the Intercooler. If not I have to pull the inlet or the turbo. Whichever is easier. Doing all of this hopefully my code clears. If not. Might have to go to a shop. I only have 10 miles or less since the code popped so hopefully it didn’t damage anything. Ohhhhh and a little backstory The previous owner blew the turbo at 100000. Replaced it and then sold it to me. So I’m thinking the valve or the banjo starved the turbo. Makes sense right?

 

 

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The previous owner blew the turbo at 100000. Replaced it and then sold it to me.

 

Oh no...

 

I'd recommend doing an oil change and looking for metal flakes in the oil, because you need to figure out exactly how much got damaged when the last owner blew a turbo before unloading the car onto you.

 

FWIW, I had P0011 last winter and it went away with a new OCV (I didn't bother swapping and checking for P0021, I just replaced both).

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See the thing is. When I got the car like 300 miles ago. I changed the oil. The oil was just changed by him apparently cause it was super clean. I changed it anyway. Maybe I’ll do it again just for peace of mind

 

 

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the DTC popped up after you change oil & replaced the inlet ?

 

 

 

Yes. I changed the oil but that was when I drove it 0 miles. I think it was a coincidence. The turbo had failed from the previous owner. I only have 300 miles about of my own now. The code was probably there previously just hadn’t triggered again.

 

 

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Update. Sucked it up. Ripped off the Intercooler and the turbo inlet again. Got to the banjo and pulled the filter. For anyone who is going to tackle the banjo on an 08 I suggest just doing the inlet while you are in there. You are going to have to disconnect all the hoses and pull it back anyway. Truth be told the inlet reinstall took longer than the whole banjo process.

 

No metal shavings in the filter. Turbo looks clean. No shaft play.

 

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TIP tape your extensions together when doing this and tape the socket on as well. If you lose it down there it isn’t going to be fun to get it out

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ANOTHER TIP. Take a piece of plastic bag. I used the plastic off the case of water. Shove it in the socket and tape it around the edges. When you get on the bolt. Press down and force the bolt into the plastic bag. Now unscrew it. When you go to pull it out it will be stuck in the socket and you won’t drop it. You really don’t want to lose your banjo bolt into the abyss.

 

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Now all that’s left is my ocv. Will be here tomorrow. Gonna pop it in and reset my ecu. Hopefully it doesn’t pop again. If it does I have no idea what’s wrong.

 

 

 

 

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UPDATE

Installed ocv

Car is back together.

Cleared code and went for a drive

 

Left AVCS cruising 40 peaked at 41 WOT

right AVCS cruising 40 peaked at 41 WOT

left ocv cruising 48 peaked at 65 wot

Right ocv cruising 53 peaked at 70

 

Came back scanned for codes. No code. Last time I reset it popped up on the first drive.

 

 

So can anyone tell me. Is my problem fixed or am I still in danger of failure?

 

 

Am I reading the wrong data? AVCS in right and AVCS in left?

 

 

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Edited by Ares3985
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Ok. I’ll do that. Hopefully someone can give some insight on those numbers also.

 

Today I’m going to drain my 300 mile oil anyway. I’m going to get a sample for when my black stone test bottle comes. I am going to now change to rotella t6 5w 40

 

 

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Changed the oil again. It came out pretty much clear. No metal or dirt that I found but I am sending a sample to Blackstone labs anyway. Just want to make sure everything is as healthy as it possibly could be

 

 

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Left AVCS cruising 40 peaked at 41 WOT

right AVCS cruising 40 peaked at 41 WOT

left ocv cruising 48 peaked at 65 wot

Right ocv cruising 53 peaked at 70

 

Ok. I’ll do that. Hopefully someone can give some insight on those numbers also.

 

Your cruising AVCS numbers seem on par with the table (see below), but WOT is off, data log to CSV and verify that it is actually staying at 41* at WOT. You could be looking at the min/max values on Cobb, which is irrelevant with something so dynamic.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=276744&stc=1&d=1561087013

438637141_2008AVCSTables.png.3a60f9a816e28405decfbb88173e1156.png

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Looks like it's hitting the right numbers. Now your right side is lagging behind the left side a little, especially when you first floor it, you can even see it working harder by increasing the duty cycles.

 

I believe right side is the driver side, if it is, then it's probably a clogged filter behind the timing belt cover (which is really hard/impossible to get to without removing the timing belt etc.).

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Looks like it's hitting the right numbers. Now your right side is lagging behind the left side a little, especially when you first floor it, you can even see it working harder by increasing the duty cycles.

 

I believe right side is the driver side, if it is, then it's probably a clogged filter behind the timing belt cover (which is really hard/impossible to get to without removing the timing belt etc.).

 

 

 

Right side is the passenger side. That’s the side I just changed the ocv.

 

 

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I keep forgetting from which perspective Subaru names stuff :-).

 

That's odd that the new one would be slower to react, especially with no turbo leaching oil pressure from the line too. No obvious oil leaks right?

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I keep forgetting from which perspective Subaru names stuff :-).

 

That's odd that the new one would be slower to react, especially with no turbo leaching oil pressure from the line too. No obvious oil leaks right?

 

 

 

No oil leaks. You think the numbers should be concerning or move onto the next project and monitor?

 

 

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Eh your probably fine, jeep an eye on it from time to time :).

 

 

Ok great. I drove a hundred miles yesterday and I still didn’t have a code again so I think I’m good too. Thanks for all your help

 

 

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