Info on OB to GT suspension geometry. (Removing spacer)

Did you read issue 2? I think I addressed the need for rear camber bushings there.

Did you read issue 2? I think I addressed the need for rear camber bushings there.

Ok cool. I dont really haul shit but ass

Thanks

I have legacy gt wagon springs on legacy struts. I trimmed my rear bump stops. The only issue With the alignment is the rear toe is slightly out. I very rarely hit the rear bump stops.

It just seems that people over think it. As long as you do not go any lower than factory legacy gt.

What are the options to fix toe issues on a budget? My toe was out on my outback and wore through tires quickly. I don't recall their being issues when they aligned it. I'm pretty low on Tein Basis coilovers, which are pretty worn. I also had a lot of tools and supplies in my trunk that weren't there during alignment. Is putting weight in the rear a big help? I also have legacy Upper control arms.

Up coming changes include new Struts, H&R springs, 1/2" rear strut space, and Legacy trailing arm brackets. My goal is to install everything at once before the snow flies.

Roll Center Bump Steer kit - specific ball joints and tie rod ends.

Taller Ball joints (RC) will fix your camber and get your roll center back near where it should be

Longer tie rod ends (BS) will fix your toe issue.

Roll Center Bump Steer kit - specific ball joints and tie rod ends.

 

Taller Ball joints (RC) will fix your camber and get your roll center back near where it should be

 

Longer tie rod ends (BS) will fix your toe issue.

Sorry. Should have specified. Only have toe issues in the back. The front of the car is good

The you'll want something that gives you precise toe and camber control - you can't possibly change one without affecting the other. Stock toe adjustment is unmanageable when also setting camber on a lowered BL/BP.

I've been running the Whiteline KTA124 for ~35K miles and it's perfect for regaining control over both camber and toe at the rear. There are other brands, at varying pricepoints, but recommend not trying to just do camber control without also doing toe control at the same time.

Not sure I understand what you're asking about the rear.

Center is locked-down by the rear sub-frame, which is the attachment points for the WL kit, so it's a matter of ensuring that the KTA124 "arms" are the same length as the arms that they replace. IOW - line up the holes side-by-side.

Beyond that, I'm not clear what you're asking.

Thought that might be what you meant.

The LGT TAs will be in the same location as the OBXT's, just not "spaced" out from the frame.

That's why you'll need to measure the bushing-to-bushing length of the LGT arms (upper and toe) and match the KTA124 arms to that. Both to ensure you don't have the track off more on one side than the other, and to keep both sides centered where they're supposed to be.

Does anyone have all the part numbers to successfully convert outback to legacy suspension without all the spacers?

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Note: being an inch lower than a Legacy will make this a lot worse/ Especially if you ever carry people and gear in your car.

 

 

Note: I am slightly higher than Legacy and I have worn away my inner fender liners due to rubbing when I carry cargo. I have the Whiteline bushings. I am fixing this by installing Whiteline camber arms.

Rhitter can you elaborate how the the camber arms will fix this? i have been looking at going an inch below legacy height on 235/45/18, but i do occasionally tow a motorcycle trailer, or put a bunch of camping gear in the back. love the low look, but i don't want to ruin the main benefit of having a wagon in the first place.

Rhitter can you elaborate how the the camber arms will fix this? i have been looking at going an inch below legacy height on 235/45/18, but i do occasionally tow a motorcycle trailer, or put a bunch of camping gear in the back. love the low look, but i don't want to ruin the main benefit of having a wagon in the first place.

I have too much rear camber. The camber bushings didn't allow me to dial it out enough. The whiteline control arms do. I no longer get inner fender rub.

I have too much rear camber. The camber bushings didn't allow me to dial it out enough. The whiteline control arms do. I no longer get inner fender rub.

ahh that makes sense. well we will see what happens once my subi is lowered. grabbed a good deal on some KYB struts and tein h tech springs, which should get me about .9 inches below legacy height, but with OB spacers still installed. the final parts arrive monday, so hopefully i can get them installed this week!

I have too much rear camber. The camber bushings didn't allow me to dial it out enough. The whiteline control arms do. I no longer get inner fender rub.

This! When you change the suspension, i.e. lower it, you create negative static camber, typically too much negative camber. The stock rear lower control arms have zero adjustability, so the KTA124 (and other) bits allow you to regain control over this situation.

Finding that balance between fender rub and inner wall rub, especially, if you've dropped your vehicle, widened your wheel/tire combo and/or changed your offset significantly, is a ton easier when you have control over both toe and camber.

Nothing provides adequate control over those two dynamics better than adjustable camber and toe arms. I guarantee that you will not get to anything approximating locked-in zero toe and stable dynamic camber without them.

I am considering purchase of a 2008-9 Outback wagon in the next few months. I had a 2000 OBW that I lowered using Legacy components - legacy struts, legacy H&R sport springs, Megan rear upper arms for camber adjustment, and rear tophat spacers from Anderson Design Fab. I also removed the Outback bumpstops. Never did replace them with the smaller Legacy version but I never bottomed out either...

I plan to follow a very similar pattern with the new car - Legacy struts (probably with Koni inserts) etc. I have a few questions after reading through this extensive thread though.

1. I plan to go with LGT wagon springs, as opposed to going even lower like I did with the old car. I have NO desire to go through swapping all the chassis and drivetrain spacer blocks for Legacy parts. Since I'm only going down to stock Legacy height, I'm assuming this is OK? I never did anything like that on the 2000 and I had zero problems.

2. Rather than swapping bumpstops, is it possible to trim the Outback ones shorter? If so, how much can you cut off, and what might be best to use to do the cutting? Hacksaw?

3. Regarding rear alignment and all I've read about ghostwalking here and on the Outback board - as mentioned, I'll go with Megan or similar upper control arms for camber adjustment but I'm curious if anything else is needed for toe adjustment.

4. Finally, also regarding the rear alignment issue - in my area I'm fairly limited to chain tire shops (Tire Discounters in particular, as well as Bob Sumerel). There are one or two race shops but the cost is prohibitive. One close to my house has been good to work with on several cars; what would be the easiest way for me to approach them about setting the car up properly once the parts are installed? It'll be used for daily driver and dad duties, so my priorities are safety and tire longevity in that order; it'll be wearing all-season or winter tires and 10/10 handling is not on the list I just want to know what to communicate to them as far as alignment values, and how much weight to throw in the back before taking the car in.

This thread is awesome - just looking for the latest and greatest. Any help appreciated, and thanks for your time.

I ran Legacy GT RCE Coilovers on my 2005 outback with a subtle solutions spacer to get my car at stock LGT hight.

I never had an issue with the spacers still installed on the outback.

I had purchased all the components from this this thread to just convert it all to Legacy GT but I never did it and never had an issue.

In fact when I swapped in my 6 speed I used a legacy driveshaft which was not spaced as low and I never had a problem with it either.

You can search my user name for what all I did to mine.

I no longer have the car but the new owner is still driving it daily. Never had an issue at all

Not Joe, but I did. I even had bump stop issues with Legacy GT bump stops and outback upper control arms. That went away when I installed Legacy GT control arms

Copy that thank you. If I do this I don't want to be any lower than the LGT so that should be reasonable to do with replacement/adjustable uppers

I am considering purchase of a 2008-9 Outback wagon in the next few months. I had a 2000 OBW that I lowered using Legacy components - legacy struts, legacy H&R sport springs, Megan rear upper arms for camber adjustment, and rear tophat spacers from Anderson Design Fab. I also removed the Outback bumpstops. Never did replace them with the smaller Legacy version but I never bottomed out either...

 

 

I plan to follow a very similar pattern with the new car - Legacy struts (probably with Koni inserts) etc. I have a few questions after reading through this extensive thread though.

 

 

1. I plan to go with LGT wagon springs, as opposed to going even lower like I did with the old car. I have NO desire to go through swapping all the chassis and drivetrain spacer blocks for Legacy parts. Since I'm only going down to stock Legacy height, I'm assuming this is OK? I never did anything like that on the 2000 and I had zero problems.

 

 

2. Rather than swapping bumpstops, is it possible to trim the Outback ones shorter? If so, how much can you cut off, and what might be best to use to do the cutting? Hacksaw?

 

 

3. Regarding rear alignment and all I've read about ghostwalking here and on the Outback board - as mentioned, I'll go with Megan or similar upper control arms for camber adjustment but I'm curious if anything else is needed for toe adjustment.

 

 

4. Finally, also regarding the rear alignment issue - in my area I'm fairly limited to chain tire shops (Tire Discounters in particular, as well as Bob Sumerel). There are one or two race shops but the cost is prohibitive. One close to my house has been good to work with on several cars; what would be the easiest way for me to approach them about setting the car up properly once the parts are installed? It'll be used for daily driver and dad duties, so my priorities are safety and tire longevity in that order; it'll be wearing all-season or winter tires and 10/10 handling is not on the list I just want to know what to communicate to them as far as alignment values, and how much weight to throw in the back before taking the car in.

 

 

This thread is awesome - just looking for the latest and greatest. Any help appreciated, and thanks for your time.

Thanks for all the help. Looks like my LGT struts/springs idea will work.

Next question - will I run into wheel clearance issues? I want to just run stock Outback wheels and tires. I can't remember if I had that issue with my 2000. I think not, but I wonder about the newer chassis. Any help appreciated, again.