KeithB Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 Subaru has another crankshaft available =part #12200AA610. Which one is the best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 PM m sprank and ask him. May be check with Benny see post # 185, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243p5.html Look up what the crank part # when you enter 2020 Subaru STI... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samuel082799 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 So when i went to buy my crankshaft, i got the part number 12200AA430 from rallysportdirect.com and looked it up on Subaru website were it said it was replaced by 12200AA610. I went in to talk to the parts department, to see if it was the same, and they said they think so, but they still had the previous part number in stock so i just bought that one to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senseless1 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 So when i went to buy my crankshaft, i got the part number 12200AA430 from rallysportdirect.com and looked it up on Subaru website were it said it was replaced by 12200AA610. I went in to talk to the parts department, to see if it was the same, and they said they think so, but they still had the previous part number in stock so i just bought that one to be sure. I wouldn't trust anything out of any parts associates mouth. I've never met a single one with any kind of formal technical training or engineering or chem knowledge. They have no credibility to be answering those types of questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samuel082799 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I wouldn't trust anything out of any parts associates mouth. I've never met a single one with any kind of formal technical training or engineering or chem knowledge. They have no credibility to be answering those types of questions. I don't trust them either, that's why I ordered the part I knew was correct instead of chancing it. If you go to Subaru you can order it and if it isn't what you want you don't have to buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samuel082799 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Its funny, I bought a bunch of parts from them and was just giving them part numbers and they kept asking me what vehicle it was for so they could make sure it fit, and I was having to guess what year sti the crank came in. She eventually stopped asking though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AW4BYT Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I just recently had part # 12200AA430 fail under 4K. All miles have been break in miles as I haven’t been tuned yet (quarantine is preventing tuner to come on island). Knock values shot up after getting gas one day. Had a friend confirm that I wasn’t just hearing things. Pulled the motor to find that my crank broke on #5. Ben hunting for a 12200AA370 but seems no one has old stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I just recently had part # 12200AA430 fail under 4K. All miles have been break in miles as I haven’t been tuned yet (quarantine is preventing tuner to come on island). Knock values shot up after getting gas one day. Had a friend confirm that I wasn’t just hearing things. Pulled the motor to find that my crank broke on #5. Ben hunting for a 12200AA370 but seems no one has old stock Hate to mention the obvious, but its a leap to say the crankshaft itself is the cause of the failure. Before you just throw a new crankshaft in and call it a day, you should diagnose why the crank broke. You should be trying to root cause the knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I just recently had part # 12200AA430 fail under 4K. All miles have been break in miles as I haven’t been tuned yet (quarantine is preventing tuner to come on island). Knock values shot up after getting gas one day. Had a friend confirm that I wasn’t just hearing things. Pulled the motor to find that my crank broke on #5. Ben hunting for a 12200AA370 but seems no one has old stock 4K miles on no tune... you can get a Cobb AP and the Tuner can email you tune, you can data log, send him a log, he;ll may adjustments and email you a better tune. Is there a reason you haven;t used a AP ? Also what kind of driving do you do that may cause this problem ? A few weeks back a Service tech at a dealership mentioned that one of the customers broke two crankshafts. They found out he only drove the car for very short distances and shut it off. the oil never got hot enough to boil the moisture out of it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AW4BYT Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 4K miles on no tune... you can get a Cobb AP and the Tuner can email you tune, you can data log, send him a log, he;ll may adjustments and email you a better tune. Is there a reason you haven;t used a AP ? Also what kind of driving do you do that may cause this problem ? A few weeks back a Service tech at a dealership mentioned that one of the customers broke two crankshafts. They found out he only drove the car for very short distances and shut it off. the oil never got hot enough to boil the moisture out of it. I should reiterate and say I was waiting to get dyno’d tuned. I was on a base map when the crank broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AW4BYT Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 Hate to mention the obvious, but its a leap to say the crankshaft itself is the cause of the failure. Before you just throw a new crankshaft in and call it a day, you should diagnose why the crank broke. You should be trying to root cause the knock. The way the crank broke is definitely a defect. I’ll post a pick of the break when I get a chance to resize the picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 The way the crank broke is definitely a defect. I’ll post a pick of the break when I get a chance to resize the picture Unless you're an engineer trained in metallurgy, I still think that's quite the leap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AW4BYT Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Unless you're an engineer trained in metallurgy, I still think that's quite the leap. Nope no I’m not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AW4BYT Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 So before guys start flexing and getting bent out of shape take a look at where my crank broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Nothing about that photo says manufacturing defect to me; i'm not saying its not a manufacturing defect, but there's no evidence to say it is either. I'd have to look closer at the fracture pattern, but the fracture occurred exactly where you'd expect a crankshaft to fracture. It fractured right across the weakest portion of the part, and it isn't a clean failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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