KILLER deal on Lower control arms

They were talking about the ultra. The picture shows a steel arm but some have ordered it and got an aluminum. Not sure how reliable that is so your millage may vary...

thanks for the info. Which 'adapters' are you using to press out and in the bushings?

 

If you have some left over pulleys from a timing belt change, they're the perfect size for punching out the old bushing.

^Why didn't you tell us this earlier huh? Come on man!

 

thanks for the tip.

They were talking about the ultra. The picture shows a steel arm but some have ordered it and got an aluminum. Not sure how reliable that is so your millage may vary...

 

i looked it up by part number. Do you have a link? I'm not trying to bust anyone's balls, I'm just looking for dirt cheap control arms!

ULTRA-POWER CMS80182

ULTRA-POWER CMS80181

 

You can find these at RockAuto (it's their house brand). The ones I got appear to be identical to the Mevotech's, but with the OEM grade vs X-force grade ball joints.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ultra-power,CMS80182,control+arm,10401

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ultra-power,CMS80181,control+arm,10401

 

Nice!!! I don't know why that doesn't show up by searching based on the car, but there are the links! Thanks!

Man, how can they sell these things for 38 bucks? How much are they making out of it? That's crazy.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ultra-power,CMS80182,control+arm,10401

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ultra-power,CMS80181,control+arm,10401

 

Nice!!! I don't know why that doesn't show up by searching based on the car, but there are the links! Thanks!

 

Images are showing up as steel arms, so your mileage may vary on actually getting aluminum ones.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ultra-power,CMS80182,control+arm,10401

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ultra-power,CMS80181,control+arm,10401

 

Nice!!! I don't know why that doesn't show up by searching based on the car, but there are the links! Thanks!

 

ordered these, got them in today, unfortunately they are steel. Guess i am out the shipping cost.

Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad.

 

Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

Edited March 14, 2018 by utc_pyro
iPhone autocorrect does odd things

If it's ball joints or torn bushing, you might be able to replace those and not need an alignment.

 

Also verify that all the bolts are nice and torqued, something might have gotten loose, maybe even swaybar endlinks?

Edited March 14, 2018 by covertrussian

I would also not bash the entire assembly based on the bushings/ball joint but your point is fair and I appreciate the feed back as I also purchased these LCAs.

 

For the price, I would just consider those parts a bonus with the arm.

Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad.

 

Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

 

let me guess "made in china"

More of a reason to swap them out. I semi wanted to swap mine but folks said they ran fine so I will leave them as is. The original "killer arms" tho.

Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad.

 

Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

Sounds like a loose sway bar end link dude. Grab a 14mm and 1/2 in ratchet. Slide under the car (probably no need to lift it just your arm will be enough). Where the end link mounts to the countrol arm tighten that thing down good, real good. If you have after market links (moog or something) its probably a 15mm. Do both sides and then go for a drive. Mine settled like once more then i tightened again and thats been that.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad.

 

Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

 

Mine is doing the same thing on the drivers side. Quiet and tight after first putting them on. I don't really have a clunk, but more of a squeak and pop maybe? I'm not sure, its kind of hard to describe. I've gotten under it and checked all bolts and it still does it. Very irritating!

Mine is doing the same thing on the drivers side. Quiet and tight after first putting them on. I don't really have a clunk, but more of a squeak and pop maybe? I'm not sure, its kind of hard to describe. I've gotten under it and checked all bolts and it still does it. Very irritating!

Check the ball joint for play if you guys suspect an issue. Found you a video

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

For what it's worth, my Outback has 2-3k miles on these arms and my ball joints are fine. No noises whatsever.

 

[Can anyone confirm or deny that these are now regular steel arms? Bought a Leggy GT and was going to get it aluminum arms too, but it seems Rock Auto fixed it.

abick23 just bought them and got steel ones. The price roughly matches what you can get steel ones for elsewhere, so it looks like RockAuto "fixed the glitch" on us getting cheap aluminum ones. They probably lowered the price to match the new steel arms before they ran out of the aluminum ones.

 

re: Clunking hell with arms; Bushing look fine, and so do the body side bolts. Need to get fully under it Sunday to investigate the ball joint and swaybar endlinks. One of the kartboy bushings looks kind of rough so I ordered a new one, but the noise doesn't seem to correlate with swaybar load changes. It's even popping/clunking when one tunes the wheel while stopped so I'm still leaning toward the balljoint or it's installation into the knuckle.

do these other brand aluminum LCAs all have that exact same genuine spec b style LCA that requires that additional cone component to make it sit in the LCA properly or not?

Would worn out lca bushing cause vibrations?

I've replaced all but control arms last year in the front end. Wheels balanced/aligned. Whole damn car vibrates going above 50...

I think it is possible. Are you front CV axles OEM still?

Would worn out lca bushing cause vibrations?

I've replaced all but control arms last year in the front end. Wheels balanced/aligned. Whole damn car vibrates going above 50...

 

 

could be a bent wheel or a wheel that needs balancing. Does the problem persist after a rotation?

I recently replaced both front axles with used low mileage OEM (30 and 20k miles) units. Both boots tore at the same time. 140k miles on the car. Now that I think about it, I didn't do tie rods either...

could be a bent wheel or a wheel that needs balancing. Does the problem persist after a rotation?

 

 

Stopping at tire shop after work to re-check balancing before I start tearing into it.