spacemanspif Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Hey all, Mrs. Spif's 05 LGT has an airbag recall that we just got the mailer for. I am thinking about having the timing belt done while it's in the dealership. Her car only has 60k miles but the belt is 11 years old. I haven't gotten a chance to pull a cover yet to inspect the belt but I'm wondering if the timing belt interval is based solely on miles or if age is a factor as well? Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Given it's a 2005, cheap insurance compared to letting it fail. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 yeah, these items are mileage OR time replacement items. I recommend the OEM water pump, the gates kit parts are starting to fail more often these days (this thread for more info: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gates-timing-belt-kits-no-longer-oem-like-251587.html). I tend to do preventative maintenance early and often and get lots of mileage out of my cars because of this with no major engine work. (I've owned multiple 300k+ subies, currently 130k on my spec B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Yes its an age thing in your case. They generally say 10 years. Get a price before you commit, any local repair shop can do the same timing belt job for less money. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-lo Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 i miss having conversations about my GT last i heard she's doing fine in Florida. 258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 I'd suggest changing it. I changed mine on my 05 when I bought it in 2014 with 52k miles. Based on age it just made me feel more comfortable. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJ255 Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Definitely change it. The timing belt's material can deteriorate over time without even being used, similar to the way tires can dry rot and still have plenty of tread left. It may keep going for a few more years, but it's not worth taking the chance. +1 on getting a price quote first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardman Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 mine was just changed but what are they? 10 yr 100k miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 105k miles http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Make sure if you do it, you replace the tentioner and pulleys and maybe water pump (probably still ok since it only had 60k in 10 years) and maybe the front crankshaft seal. If any of those things go bad you need to do the timing belt again. I have done mine 2 times now once around 45 or 50k miles because the belt was worn because of a bad tentioner (only belt and tentioner). Then again around 110k to replace the water pump (leaking), tentioner, pulleys, belt, front crankshaft seal as preventative maintenence and because i didnt want to do it again until engine blows or 200-210k which ever came first. I used a gates kit as referenced above but knock on wood hasnt failed yet, it also contained parts that looked oem with same color ntn bearings. To check the belt condition there are 4 10mm bolts under the cover infront of the oil filler cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arg36 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Don't forget to pull the driver side banjo screen when it's all apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemanspif Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 I called Subaru and they quoted me around $1,000 for all new parts and the labor. Gonna call an independent shop and see how they compare on the price. I've helped on friends cars when they did timing belts but it was such a pain in the ass job that I think I'd rather pay someone to do it. Still need to find the that banjo bolt and throw away the screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 One thing to note about the dealer, for that price, they might just do the belt and tensioner. I had subaru replace my timing belt at around 100k, and they only did the belt and tensioner, and water pump because i asked. I think it was around $11xx out the door for that. My idlers did end up being fine until i changed them out at 195k, but still, just something to keep in mind. If you have the dealer add on the idlers, you're probably up around $1400ish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 I called Subaru and they quoted me around $1,000 for all new parts and the labor. Gonna call an independent shop and see how they compare on the price. I've helped on friends cars when they did timing belts but it was such a pain in the ass job that I think I'd rather pay someone to do it. Still need to find the that banjo bolt and throw away the screen. There are threads about doing the timing belt and removing the front banjo filter, in the DIY/walkthrough forum. I think you'll find the inde shop is cheaper. Just good in most cases. Your in NJ, how far are you from www.AZPinstalls.com, if you can that's who you want to work with. Tell Mike or Rey I sent you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemanspif Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 I'm south of Philly, 10 miles from the bridge into Delaware. 1.5 hours away from the town AZpinstals is in. I asked the dealer how much for all the parts so the $1000 is including the idlers too. Inderpendent shop quoted me $800 with all the pieces replaced. I'm not sure saving $200 is worth having to take the car to 2 different shops at different times. Thanks for the insights guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Holy crap I must doing something wrong when they can charge that much for a timing belt.... I need to start doing subaru timing belts for people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Holy crap I must doing something wrong when they can charge that much for a timing belt.... I need to start doing subaru timing belts for people doesn't seem that crazy to me? my local dealership quoted $1000 for a timing belt service and I don't believe that included the water pump or thermostat.... Any independent shop is likely to charge around $300 on labor, plus parts. Lets say you source the OEM parts yourself or the timing service and get the best deals you can find online (I've done the math recently) that's around $550 if you include the water pump and thermostat... so, plan on spending around $850 for everything. No, I won't consider a gates kit because the last gates kit I bought only lasted 32k miles before the water pump failed and a couple idlers felt more worn than 32k should... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 8 years or 105k miles. Change the belt, pulleys,oem waterpump, and OEM thermostat. Might want to do OEM pulleys as well. I've heard the Gates branded ones have gone sour recently with their change of supplier. 1k is standard fair for a dealer. Independent around $700-800 in my local area. OEM parts will have a premium price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Belts are a rubber/fiberglass reinforced thing and over time the rubber will deteriorate... My dealer said 10 years is about as far as you want to push it time wise... for my 2003 Legacy my belt was changed in 2014 at 11 years and 62K miles... Good thing too as the OEM tensioner was leaking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Just want to say, don't get hung up on the OEM parts. All inde shops will use what they have learned works and is cheaper unless its a chassis part that is not made in the aftermarket yet. I used a Dayco timing belt kit back in 08 when I did the timing belt in my 2005. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 I'm south of Philly, 10 miles from the bridge into Delaware. 1.5 hours away from the town AZpinstals is in. I asked the dealer how much for all the parts so the $1000 is including the idlers too. Inderpendent shop quoted me $800 with all the pieces replaced. I'm not sure saving $200 is worth having to take the car to 2 different shops at different times. Thanks for the insights guys. Normally people say stay away from dealers, given location I'd be comfortable with Cherry Hill if that's who you are leaning towards. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterE22 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Looking for a shop to do this same job, I'm located in South NJ as well. I would not recommend the Cherry Hill dealership, they gave me my car back with loose lug nuts and a seat half bolted in among other headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldmemberXT Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Just went through this on my 2006 Outback XT. It's 130 months old with just under 62k miles, so I decided to replace the belt due to age. I did the job myself - turns out the original Subaru belt looked brand new, the rollers all seemed fine as did the tensioner. I did hear an intermittent squeak from the front of the engine that went away after I replaced the belt, tensioner, and all pulleys/rollers. I did not replace the water pump. A local Subaru mechanic told me that the belts rarely fail - it's the lower toothed pulley or the tensioner that will often be the issue. I strongly advise NOT to use the Gates kit. The tensioner in mine seems to be defective (I have a separate thread going on that). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterE22 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Just went through this on my 2006 Outback XT. It's 130 months old with just under 62k miles, so I decided to replace the belt due to age. I did the job myself - turns out the original Subaru belt looked brand new, the rollers all seemed fine as did the tensioner. I did hear an intermittent squeak from the front of the engine that went away after I replaced the belt, tensioner, and all pulleys/rollers. I did not replace the water pump. A local Subaru mechanic told me that the belts rarely fail - it's the lower toothed pulley or the tensioner that will often be the issue. I strongly advise NOT to use the Gates kit. The tensioner in mine seems to be defective (I have a separate thread going on that). Funny, I was told today that it was the belt that fails and everything else probably won't need to be replaced. Can't keep this info straight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Looking for a shop to do this same job, I'm located in South NJ as well. I would not recommend the Cherry Hill dealership, they gave me my car back with loose lug nuts and a seat half bolted in among other headaches. Their quality must have declined since my Legacy died years ago for the 1st time. I literally would come from VA to get stuff fixed as the Springfield dealer was horrible and any other one near it. Being stationed at JB MDL at the time, it was a needed trip that way anyways with Mt Laurel hotel selection. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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