Garurumon's 2006 OBP Legacy GT Build Thread

Hey everyone, my name's Colton, I'm from Canada and I'm pretty stoked on my new daily / project. I'm keeping this thread as a mod list and to record all of the work I do to the car.

Current setup (italicized items have not been installed)

Engine / Drivetrain:

Stock

Rev9 3" Catless DP

Invidia Catless UP

Mishimoto exhaust flange converter

Energy Suspension polyurethane shifter bushings

K&N Hi-flow filter

Rev9 Silicone Turbo Inlet

E-Tuned by Cryotune Performance

Suspension/Wheels:

Enkei RPF1 17x8, with BFG G force Sport Comp2 245/40/17s

JDM REV C Bilstein Shocks with JDM springs

Exterior:

Blacktop Aero Style Front Lip

Rally Armor Mudflaps

Anodized License Plate Frames

Rear Window Spoiler

Interior:

Autometer Boost Gauge

She's was most unabused / unmolested / bone stock vehicle I've ever owned in my life in very good condition. Just over 95k miles (April 2016). Stoked to start wrenching on her and glad to have the wealth of experience that is the forum!

She's not my first project car by any means, but she's my first Subaru so she is going to be treated with love.

When I bought her:

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/coltonbjensen/Mobile%20Uploads/20160323_105742_zps1bzkoxn2.jpg

Now:

I polished/refinished the yellowed headlights and cleaned/oiled the stock filter. Can anyone confirm if air filter oil should be used on the OEM filter?

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/coltonbjensen/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160327_145335_zpsbotwacrq.jpg

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/coltonbjensen/Mobile%20Uploads/20160322_175034_zpsyiwlzzbh.jpg

Also, my current plans are just some minor aesthetic / handling mods for now. I want a front lip, a slight drop, some new wheels and tires and maybe a sway bar. A buddy of mine has a set of 17x8 RPF1s for sale, should I bite the bullet? They are about ~4 lbs lighter per wheel than stock, and would fit with my summer tires (currently not on wheels).

I do live in Canada so having summers and winters both on wheels is very nice to have.

I'll just keep updating as a log of modifications...

I ordered some wheels. I had the choice between the RPF1s, and a brand new set of Konig Hypergrams. I went for the Konigs, they are flow formed (rotary forged) in a 17x8 +40. They weigh just over 16 lbs per wheel so they should be a huge improvement over stock.

I've never owned Konigs before, but this is their top of the line model for 2016... It's not a replica of anything, its a real wheel, and I'm stoked to be (afaik) the first Legacy using them. I'll do a review when I get them in a couple of days.

On another note I found some $2 flexible blue cutting boards at the dollar store. I'm using them as DIY mudflaps, I dont really like the color with my OBP car, but they are for function not form. At least, until I decide to get some rally armors in black.

Next up is some sway bars. I took the car for a long drive last night with some spirited turns and braking, and the handling is definitely not extremely good... So handling mods are next on the list. Sway bars and some Hawk HPS pads, DBA rotors are next.

I polished/refinished the yellowed headlights and cleaned/oiled the stock filter. Can anyone confirm if air filter oil should be used on the OEM filter?

Great job on the headlights! They look as good as new. Try Osram Rallye 65w for your low beams, to make use of those clear lenses!

Don't oil your filter, or any filter, for that matter. These cars read airflow using a MAF, which is a hot wire design. If you add oil to that wire, it changes the rate at which it cools, so your MAF will not react as quickly to changes in airflow. Not a good thing. Get a new OEM or other dry filter, and some MAF cleaner... spray it down and let it dry, and re-install with the new clean filter. Your car will be happier. Maybe save up for a new MAF sensor anyway, as it's probably pretty tired. Oxygen sensors, too, if you haven't replaced them yet.

Next up is some sway bars. I took the car for a long drive last night with some spirited turns and braking, and the handling is definitely not extremely good... So handling mods are next on the list. Sway bars and some Hawk HPS pads, DBA rotors are next.

Interested to see pics of the Konigs mounted up, you'll appreciate the decrease in rotating mass, for sure.

Anti-roll bars (and upgraded rear mounting brackets) are always a great first suspension mod... but you should make sure you're building on a good foundation. LCA bushings (especially the tennis-ball-style one) will make a huge difference in responsiveness, control, and consistency under braking or over uneven ground. Add the bars and new endlinks, then dial in a good alignment for maximum benefit. If you're still not satisfied, then look at struts/springs for a $1k setup, or at coilovers if you don't mind paying $2k+.

In terms of rotors, DBAs are awesome, but consider Centric premium blanks, or even decent NAPA rotors. Unless you're going all-out, good steel is good steel. Spend those extra bucks on getting it off the stock tune... and call Mike or Brian at Tuning Alliance to get that done (like, yesterday)!

Good advice on the filter oil. It seems to be running fine but I'll order a new filter just in case.

I've got an issue- just got my confirmation for the Konigs, turns out they arent available just yet. It's a pre-order of about a month... The question is, do I wait or do I go with the local rpf1s? I need to get my summer tires on ASAP!

I finished my DIY mudflaps and for an $8 DIY job they look nearly as good as an expensive set pics later today!

It's

http://www.rimrim.ca/images/P/rpf1_silver.jpg

Vs

http://wheelworldinc.com/wp-content/gallery/konig/thumbs/thumbs_HYPERGRAM_BRONZE.jpg

Both are rotary forged (flow formed), weigh ~16 lbs and are the dual 6-split stoke with lip. It will cost me $100 less for the rpf1s. I love the bronze though...

It's

 

http://www.rimrim.ca/images/P/rpf1_silver.jpg

 

Vs

 

http://wheelworldinc.com/wp-content/gallery/konig/thumbs/thumbs_HYPERGRAM_BRONZE.jpg

 

Both are rotary forged (flow formed), weigh ~16 lbs and are the dual 6-split stoke with lip. It will cost me $100 less for the rpf1s. I love the bronze though...

Go with what you like. You dont want to regret it latter.

Has the timing belt been replaced? It's 11 years old if it hasn't been changed.

These are interference fit engines.

You need to get the car off the stock MAP, it can cause burnt valves or broken ring lands.

Learn how to check the oil and always keep it topped off.

Save your money, these things can turn into a money pit quickly.

Not bad for an $8 DIY

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/coltonbjensen/Mobile%20Uploads/20160502_144039_zpsbhmog1ap.jpg

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/coltonbjensen/Mobile%20Uploads/20160502_144046_zpse1jdglfu.jpg

I'm gonna go with the rpf1s. Pictures later in the week when they are mounted with my summers

Has the timing belt been replaced? It's 11 years old if it hasn't been changed.

These are interference fit engines.

 

You need to get the car off the stock MAP, it can cause burnt valves or broken ring lands.

 

Learn how to check the oil and always keep it topped off.

 

Save your money, these things can turn into a money pit quickly.

Off the stock map? Why can it cause burnt valves? I'm new to Subaru but not new to the tuning scene, so I'm fairly proficient with mechanics. Shouldn't the factory map be fairly conservative and safe?

I'll have to check the timing belt. I do have all of the maintenance records for the car and it checks out perfectly mechanically, since being imported from the US last year up here to Canada.

Off the stock map? Why can it cause burnt valves? I'm new to Subaru but not new to the tuning scene, so I'm fairly proficient with mechanics. Shouldn't the factory map be fairly conservative and safe?

 

I'll have to check the timing belt. I do have all of the maintenance records for the car and it checks out perfectly mechanically, since being imported from the US last year up here to Canada.

The factory map was made to get the most out of the MPG so it leans out during boost. Plus it advances timing in cylinders two and four which have been proven to go first.

The factory map was made to get the most out of the MPG so it leans out during boost. Plus it advances timing in cylinders two and four which have been proven to go first.

Right. Good info, though it's rather far and a hassle to find a tuner where I live, unless I go down south. By getting it off the stock map I'm assuming you mean just reflashed to a different map using an accessport or similar?

Yes the Cobb AP is good. If your good with a lap top you can buy a cable and get e-tunes from a great Tuner like http://www.tuningalliance.com

Tell Mike, I sent you.

You can check out his thread in the Vendor forum. He's the one Tuner you want to keep your car safe and happy. He was one of the first if not the the first to find the timing flaw in the stock MAP back in 2005 or so. His brother had one of these cars and Mike spent a lot of time with it on the dyno at the shop he was working at.

Yes the Cobb AP is good. If your good with a lap top you can buy a cable and get e-tunes from a great Tuner like www.tuningalliance.com

+1 for Mike, and an AccessPort... I'm running a TA map on my V3. I've done open source, and piggyback ECUs before, but the simplicity of the AP, and just emailing maps/logs back and forth with Mike is awesome.

+1 for Mike, and an AccessPort... I'm running a TA map on my V3. I've done open source, and piggyback ECUs before, but the simplicity of the AP, and just emailing maps/logs back and forth with Mike is awesome.

I may return to that, I left the AP alone because my V1 Hicksta'd 2 ECUs.

Anyone mention the Up Pipe cat converter yet?

I've read a little bit. Do a lot of people just gut the stocker?

I've read a little bit. Do a lot of people just gut the stocker?

We usually just get a OEM non catted one from later LGT or other cars that wasn't blessed with failure inducing catted up pipe. usually searching for STi Up Pipe brings them up for sale.

Aftermarket is also an option depending on if you have anal emissions people. My area looked at the "Subaru stamped" OEM up and said it shouldn't be there for my model year so my car never got state registered. Registration has my local address and the cops I came in contact with over the years didn't have an issue with it. Shops here still said they weren't going to touch any of my exhaust pieces besides the mid pipe back no matter what plates I had on the car. Now I gotta see if I can find someone who can reweld the heatshield on the up since it broke and rattled at idle before I pulled the engine.

I got the enkeis! Will post pics when I get them mounted Monday

Hoping to get a little extra cash for a tuning solution and a cates up pipe pretty soon here.

Cable for tuning is coming in the mail hopefully in the next couple of days. I did some research and I'm going to go with an OTS map until stage 2 later in the summer, and get a Tuning Alliance tune from there.

The RPF1s have been on, I have a front lip as well as Rally Armor mudflaps that are waiting for install (its currently raining out )

http://i.imgur.com/eiseSKW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FuPLtfZ.jpg

So I got a lip and some mudflaps, took her on a long roadtrip and patiently waited for my cable to come so I could get off the stock map... It never came So... Ordering another one and hopefully this one shows up.

Here are some pics of the drive home from Alberta, approx. 1200 km of driving later so shes a little dirty!

http://i.imgur.com/CrFP0YB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/u7xoAdJ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yvdx5Qk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9aiAWaz.jpg

Ordered a new VAG COM cable, and a trunk lip. Looking into the similar aerodynamics approach of a Gurney flap for that piece... I've drawn out some rear diffuser style aero bits, and just trying to find a material to use to design for. The rear bumper side pieces will be more important as the factory diffuser does a fairly good job of keeping the undertray flat.

I plan to make some thin side skirt extensions along with some rear aero pieces and hopefully keep the weight down... If they look sick and maybe reduce drag enough to give me an extra 1 MPG I will be happy! Not a racecar but I've always loved how aero bits looked on time attack cars and whatnot so I'm hoping for a similar style to that.

I'm thinking something along the lines of this, with maybe an additional fin behind the wheel:

http://i55.tinypic.com/2m6lq4m.jpg

So, update...

My car was hit in a hit and run, resulting in about 4k worth of damage. It's all covered, but the car won't be our of the shop for a few days.

I got my cable, both catless down/up pipe, that are waiting to be installed along with an E-tune, removing the oil feed filter, and a turbo blanket I had leftover from the Prelude build. So lots of work to be done, just too bad that the car had to be damaged...

But more vroom is coming soon!