Thoughts/Reviews about 'GetaDomTune' Cylinder 4 Chamber Cooling System?

Are you talking about EGTs? If yes, it is dropping a lot more than that. Let me get his screenshot.

Here it is. 20F drop but also raises the other cylinders EGTs.

 

 

So which is better? A more consistent EGT reading across all cylinders, or 1 & 4 running a little hotter and total temp a bit lower.

 

I've had this mod in a shopping cart for a minute now, but waiting for info.

Without the kit, you can tell #4 runs quite a lot hotter than the other three, according to the above screenshot. And as you know, excessive heat is one of the major reasons for detonation.

So, I think having more consistent EGTs is definitely a good thing. As I originally said though, while EGTs become more consistent across all cylinders, their temps increased a bit, but not as high as #4 was before the mod.

 

And interestingly, overall coolant temp decreased a little apparently (~5F). Not much but still.

Look I m not sure if it is snake oil or not, but I do not b stuff with out killing the googles and finding the good and bad on it. I found all good on it and nothing that has caused problems. personally think IMO, that me running Amsoil Rae oil, and Amsoils coolant with their coolant additive will help a great deal.

 

BTW I actually opened the box and took a look at the C4 kit and it is heavy duty, and real deal kit. Not some junk put together. If the shop/tuner says this is a joke, then I will not have it put in the car, but I plan on it. From what I have read people have ran it for a while with not issues.

 

Do not get caught up in numbers, on my 09 WRX I never looked at number and heat and this and that and the car ran solid till I solid it. A great tune is key.

 

I also bought a KOYO Rad to sooo That should help. lol

What would you base a decision on if not the "numbers"?

 

Actual data is always better than random internet opinions. You have no idea if the reviewers are even competent.

Agreed, data and field testing. Until then I'll trust Subaru's engineers.

Let me provide links to these threads (in case you have not found them already) where people who have installed it provided some feedback.

 

 

 

https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylinder-4-cooling-kit.319018/

 

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2882734

So which is better? A more consistent EGT reading across all cylinders, or 1 & 4 running a little hotter and total temp a bit lower.

 

I've had this mod in a shopping cart for a minute now, but waiting for info.

 

I believe consistency is better, even when higher, then lower but inconsistent temps. With consistent temps you could adjust fuel or timing to reduce EGT's.

 

Lets compare this to a more common metric: Air to Fuel Ratios. Is it better to have consistent AFR's across all cylinders or richer AFR's on cylinder 1-3, but cylinder 4 is 1 point leaner?

 

With inconsistent temps or AFR's, you have to tune per cylinder... Which means you need a wideband and knock sensor on each cylinder then .

 

 

Agreed, data and field testing. Until then I'll trust Subaru's engineers.

 

While I do agree with this typically, since OEM's have lots more money and engineers. With that said, how many of are are running stock turbos, how about even at stock boost?

 

Heck the factory tune tends to blow up on bone stock motors as is, but that is a different team/department .

 

 

My fix to reducing heating/egt stress has been running a much larger turbo with a much larger turbine housing, but at stock boost levels. Coupled with a more efficient Intake, header, downpipes and exhaust. Not many people tend to wanna go this route though . With that said, I still might do this mod though, just need to find time

Edited March 28, 2020 by covertrussian

yeah. agreed. just received mine today. engine still in pieces though

It makes sense to me that consistent temps across all cylinders would seem more efficiency and safer, even if the temps are slightly higher overall. I'm certainly not qualified to answer that question though.

 

I think I'll go with this mod sooner than later, but just like to know there's not some potential for failure people haven't thought of yet.

Damn thread. Spent last couple hours rat-holing on solutions for managing EGT. $75 for this. $100-$1500 for something better.

 

Still seems like getting heat out through the exhaust port is better than through cooling system. However the coatings necessary to do this are race car $$$. The one quote I found was $30/runner and $250-300 for the header coating.

yeah. agreed. just received mine today. engine still in pieces though

 

I see you went with the SS T fitting, I went with the same as well. Do you run either the Subaru green/blue coolant or something else entirely?

 

I haven't looked into it and probably will more whenever I install mine but thought it was interesting on Dom's website the plastic fitting is recommended for the green coolant and the SS one for the blue coolant due to potential corrosion issues.

My thoughts as a simple denizen of the internet are as follows: the knock sensor on the EJ is located on cylinder 4 because the engineers know that this cylinder runs the hottest. It is the canary in the coal mine. Whether they chose to do this as a cost saving measure (one sensor as opposed to four) is beyond me.After installing the cooling mod, cylinder 4 is still the hottest cylinder in the engine, but it is not as high as it was before. This preserves the safety function of cylinder 4 while making it less prone to knock.

 

That being said, I would venture further that there isn't a scenario where I would choose to run one cylinder warmer than the others, except for reasons of economy like in the knock sensor example above. Consistent temperatures across the cylinders is a good thing.

 

Finally, even if the mod is causing the other 3 cylinders to run warmer, cylinder 4 is still running cooler than it was previously and is less prone to knock. Cylinder 4 will still begin to knock before the other 3, so the fact that they run warmer is relatively inconsequential.

 

It's interesting to wonder why this plug was so conveniently cast there. Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me knows the answer to that. I wonder whether WRC cars use that coolant port.

Edited March 29, 2020 by Enlight

It's interesting to wonder why this plug was so conveniently cast there. Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me knows the answer to that. I wonder whether WRC cars use that coolant port.

 

The jdm ej20x has an external transmission cooler/warmer similar to our engine cooler that uses the plug on the back of the head for coolant flow. I have the oem subaru coolant plug that I was going to use with an extra reducer to limit flow but switched gears.

yeah. agreed. just received mine today. engine still in pieces though [emoji23]

Nice. I like the VEMS kit and modeled my parts after it. I just looked into it and I'm under $50 in parts. It's definitely easier to buy a kit than piece stuff together though.

I see you went with the SS T fitting, I went with the same as well. Do you run either the Subaru green/blue coolant or something else entirely?

 

I haven't looked into it and probably will more whenever I install mine but thought it was interesting on Dom's website the plastic fitting is recommended for the green coolant and the SS one for the blue coolant due to potential corrosion issues.

 

I am so mad my kit was not put together, but I got it from IAG . I will be and have always used Amsoil Coolant, I have not touched Subaru coolant in 10 years. All my subies run if and run very nice.

 

I have the same kit, just not put together.

I see you went with the SS T fitting, I went with the same as well. Do you run either the Subaru green/blue coolant or something else entirely?

 

I haven't looked into it and probably will more whenever I install mine but thought it was interesting on Dom's website the plastic fitting is recommended for the green coolant and the SS one for the blue coolant due to potential corrosion issues.

 

I am so mad my kit was not put together, but I got it from IAG . I will be and have always used Amsoil Coolant, I have not touched Subaru coolant in 10 years. All my subies run if and run very nice.

 

I have the same kit, just not put together.

I see you went with the SS T fitting, I went with the same as well. Do you run either the Subaru green/blue coolant or something else entirely?

 

I haven't looked into it and probably will more whenever I install mine but thought it was interesting on Dom's website the plastic fitting is recommended for the green coolant and the SS one for the blue coolant due to potential corrosion issues.

 

 

 

 

I was actually planning to use Valvoline Zerex Asian RED. Do any of you know if this one is equivalent to the Subaru one?

I was actually planning to use Valvoline Zerex Asian RED. Do any of you know if this one is equivalent to the Subaru one?

I have used that but they also have a different updated version for the blue coolant which is what I started using a couple of years ago with my new block.

I don't recall seeing a blue one at my local Walmart. According to the internets , the formula between the two might be the same. Just different color dye.

 

 

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5180052/can-you-mix-zerex-asian-red-with-blue

Yea, honestly don't even know what coolant I'm running from the last time the shop did a flush. I'm curious what exactly it is in the Subaru green coolant that could lead to the corrosion of the SS T.

 

Probablywon't use either of the Subaru coolants come time for the next flush but would like to know so I can at least be aware of it. I'll need to do some research once work dies down.

I think Max or one of those guys swears by Peak conventional, the green stuff. That's what I've been using for awhile now.

 

I also use the little blue Subaru coolant conditioner. Something I've always done.

From my research Peak is the green Subaru coolant, that's what I run now.

The Zerex red or pink is Toyota if I remember correctly.

 

When I was researching Dom's cooling mod, he was very specific about the diameters of the components, larger or smaller will end up with a different flow and you likely won't have the same results as you would with his setup.

Edited April 1, 2020 by Infosecdad

I finally installed my diy kit today; I tried to not cut the oem heater core line but it put the hose too close to the steering linkage so I ended up cutting it. I haven't driven yet because I'm also cleaning my aos and replacing all of the lines for it.

The first image is the tee and the second image is the fitting on the back of the cylinder head.