What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

recieved group n pitch mount, open the package, then realised it's exact the same as one under the hood. diff is.. the group n has STi on the mount and my old one don't... x.x"

Well the gas/ass pedal has been bought. Now just need to find proper time to install it. Not that i am in a hurry to go anywhere - working from home for foreseeable future.

Well the gas/ass pedal has been bought. Now just need to find proper time to install it. Not that i am in a hurry to go anywhere - working from home for foreseeable future.

 

https://jalopnik.com/how-to-pretend-youre-working-from-home-when-youre-reall-1842317467

 

Whiteline rsb bushings are getting real squeaky after about 2 years. Figure it's time to throw some silicone grease on them, or is there a different preferable solution?

NEO Synthetics HP800. It's pricey, but a small tub will last you forever. I've had a tub for the last 15 years. I'm finally getting to the bottom of it. I grease everything with it, and that's it. You only need to grease it once and it's good for about as long as an aftermarket part lasts.

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1788/3745/products/neohp800.jpg?v=1495061011

Cleaned out the garage enough to pull the car into it the first time. The car didn’t really fit, but it was pleasant out so no issues. Changed oil and the Grimmspeed intake pre-filter as the MAF was maxing out in the rain. Then while looking for an exhaust leaks found this fun:

 

The EWG input v-band appears to be leaking, and the whole thing looks roasted. This thing is a massive pain in the ass to get on/off with the catted downpipe so not looking forward to trying to fix it. Though at the same time I’m not sure what can cause these to leak like this? It would explain why I get so sleepy driving, this is right next to the outside air intake. Yay carbon monoxide poisoning...

Edited March 23, 2020 by utc_pyro

Cleaned out the garage enough to pull the car into it the first time. The car didn’t really fit, but it was present out so no issues. Changed oil and the Grimmspeed intake pre-filter as the MAF was maxing out in the rain. Then while looking for an exhaust leaks found this fun:

 

The EWG input v-band appears to be leaking, and the whole thing looks roasted. This thing is a massive pain in the ass to get on/off with the catted downpipe so not looking forward to trying to fix it. Though at the same time I’m not sure what can cause these to leak like this? It would explain why I get so sleepy driving, this is right next to the outside air intake. Yay carbon monoxide poisoning...

What pre-filter do you use for your grimmspeed intake? I found the K&N RU-4730 to fit alright.

My issue was that the filter would get soaked in the rain (water from under headlight at top of bumper) and cause the maf to go haywire with fuel trims.

What pre-filter do you use for your grimmspeed intake? I found the K&N RU-4730 to fit alright.

My issue was that the filter would get soaked in the rain (water from under headlight at top of bumper) and cause the maf to go haywire with fuel trims.

 

K&N RX-4990DK prefilter on an AEM 21-203D-XK dryfilter. It worked really well for three years even with the fog lights removed to allow direct air to the filter, and a LOT of water gets in there during heavy rain. Never had MAF issues until February when I guess it finally degraded. They are only rated for a year, so it lived a lot longer than expected.

 

Oddly when my MAF was maxing out at 350g/sec the AFR's were staying stable (though offset by a little). Turbo maxes around 330, so probably need to raise the limit.

Took off my stock wheel to take them to get aired up. Going to get some wheels and tire from tirerack. Decided on some 17x8s.

Installed Grimmspeed AOS this weekend. Found it on Facebook marketplace, bought rebuild kit and new connectors from Grimmspeed and new hose from Tractor Supply. Cleaned the core and fittings and replaced the breather hoses coming of crankcase since they were dry and a two were cracked. Edited March 24, 2020 by sd2180

Took off my stock wheel to take them to get aired up. Going to get some wheels and tire from tirerack. Decided on some 17x8s.

 

You can add air while the wheels are on the car.

You can add air while the wheels are on the car.

 

All of us here allow our cars to make us do stupid stuff and spend stupid money on stupid mods. And we like it.

Or maybe he read the "if you love it don't drive it" thread and is taking it to the next level.

Still, I'm also curious why not just add air without removing the wheels.

Still, I'm also curious why not just add air without removing the wheels.

 

 

Maybe all 4 were low on air or flat (not safe to drive) and he has no access to an air compressor. Cars do get stored for extended periods.

All of us here allow our cars to make us do stupid stuff and spend stupid money on stupid mods. And we like it.

Or maybe he read the "if you love it don't drive it" thread and is taking it to the next level.

Still, I'm also curious why not just add air without removing the wheels.

 

I figure this is the case , my comment was tongue-in-cheek. C’mon guys I’m bored out of my mind.

You can add air while the wheels are on the car.

 

True if I had a bigger compressor, and my LGT has a blown turbo engine problems, and no plates, so I cannot drive it to the gas station . It goes to get guilt at the end of April. It does start and drive up and down my street but that's about it. Where I live is kind of private and I can do that. but the way it smokes gives her away.

Maybe all 4 were low on air or flat (not safe to drive) and he has no access to an air compressor. Cars do get stored for extended periods.

 

Right on the spot, car is in my garage, and has been for over a year. tires do go very low. Just need to get it aired up to start and drive out and get it all ready for the trailer and get the dirtymax ready to tow her 3 hours.

woot, Injector dynamics called and my ID1000 are done and on the way back.

I'm torn between putting the gold RPF1's with summer tire back on or continuing to run the stock wheels with winter tires.

 

I'm not worried about the cold as the low has been/is in the 40s but I don't want to be drawing extra attention as this crisis continues.

I'm torn between putting the gold RPF1's with summer tire back on or continuing to run the stock wheels with winter tires.

 

I'm not worried about the cold as the low has been/is in the 40s but I don't want to be drawing extra attention as this crisis continues.

 

I took the blizzaks and steelies off the 2.5i and put the new all seasons on. How do you like the RFPs in gold? Are they bright gold? I though about buying some?

They have been great.

 

Gold or Bronze wheels are the only way to go IMO.

 

And my RPF1's are cheap, light, and clear Brembos (if I ever decide to go that route)

I took the blizzaks and steelies off the 2.5i and put the new all seasons on. How do you like the RFPs in gold? Are they bright gold? I though about buying some?

 

I also took the Blizzacks off over the weekend, put new DWS06's on the wagon and it promptly snowed on Monday...figures.

 

 

Also dropped off one of the DWS06's off Monday from the Spec, it had developed a slow leak. Picked it up today, they replaced the valve stem. The cost was free.

 

I know I keep telling people to find a good mechanic and use them. I've been going to this shop since the early 1980's, my Dad used him and my son also use's him. Last week I dropped of the 4 new DWS's and wheels for the wagon, he mounted and balanced them for $50. I picked them the next day and put them on over the weekend.

 

 

I'll also say I'm glad to have the DWS's back on the wagon. I didn't really enjoy the Blizzacks WS80's, They seem fine on the Spec, but the wagon...I found them vague and didn't like breaking traction on dry pavement. Lot's of different noises from the 16y/o suspension...may be that's the issue.

 

The wagon has new front suspension pieces and bushing, the rear not so much, just the rear diff front support, may be 5 years ago and whiteline bushing in the top diff mount, Moog end links.

 

For most of the past winters I have run LM101's, found those to have lots of road noise, and LM32's and LM28's earlier. Liked those.

Edited March 25, 2020 by Max Capacity

Right on the spot, car is in my garage, and has been for over a year. tires do go very low. Just need to get it aired up to start and drive out and get it all ready for the trailer and get the dirtymax ready to tow her 3 hours.

 

Dirtymax!

Yota and Bu?

Last night, 1/2 a tank of 91 cost me... $19 and that's with Canada's stupid taxes.

 

Better than sex? No, but felt damn good!

Dirtymax!

 

DirtyMax aka Chevy Duramax Diesel. That is what I'll be towing the LGT to the shop that 3 hours away. last time I used a Silverado and it was ok but was not happy. The DirtyMax will roll that coal when we need to hit those hills , or just to see black smoke and here big turbo sounds .

measuring the valve weight and length for engine rebuild thread. So happy to dig through the boxes of valves to see what I have. Looks like enough to build every set of heads plus a brand new, still shrink wrapped, gsc valves. Sigh...

 

just need another set of v25b heads. Anyone?