Cincy05LGT Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 Bump for advice Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Post a picture? I'm curious how loose they are. Maybe the fitment of the aftermarket arm used a slightly different bushing that is unique to the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 Post a picture? I'm curious how loose they are. Maybe the fitment of the aftermarket arm used a slightly different bushing that is unique to the arm.I'll post pics tomorrow. They're not rattling around in there or anything, but I can easily push them in with my hand. I'll take a pair of calipers to the oem vs whiteline tomorrow also. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d22597 Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 I had a similar issue on a different vehicle and used loctite 660. It’s holding up good after 6 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted May 4, 2021 Author Share Posted May 4, 2021 (edited) The Loctite 660 suggestion got me thinking. Ended up sticking with the Whiteline KCA334 ALK. I chose to adhesively bond them into the aluminum arms after a grit blast surface prep and solvent wipe. I just finished up a research project at work on Huntsman Araldite 2022-1 epoxy and had zero doubts about which adhesive system to use. Access to USAF bonding procedures and aerospace grade epoxy FTW. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Edited May 4, 2021 by Cincy05LGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 My whiteline 20mm RSB arrived today to go along with the AVO brackets and kartboy endlinks. Project "neutralize the understeer" is well underway. I'm really hopeful that increasing rear roll stiffness while improving front grip through increased camber and caster will do the trick. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted May 6, 2021 Author Share Posted May 6, 2021 07 STi MC on the way to go with the STi booster. Hopefully the Wagner brand is still worth a damn Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted May 18, 2021 Author Share Posted May 18, 2021 Well, this car is a ******* animal. The new upgrades made a massive difference in turn in, and overall grip and balance. I managed to bring home a runner up trophy in XA class in the ultra competitive Cincinnati region SCCA behind a 2018 STi. Still at -1° front camber with the factory bolts maxxed, so a few more degrees should erase any remaining hints of understeer. The only concern this weekend was my learning view after the event showed quite a bit of pulled timing. I fear I may be maxxed out on fueling with oem sidefeeds on this 16g at 20psi... Next up is camber plates, corner balance, and oil temp/pressure gauges. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 Yeah, OEM sidefeeds tend to start going at the age our cars are at. I lost an injector a few weeks ago and had Surgeline swap in some OEM STi topfeeds, plus an EBCS. Car runs much better. Definitely would recommend the oil gauges with what appears to be your use-case for your car. Looks sweet man! ABP gang! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 (edited) I got issues, could use some help. I did an HPDE last month at Mid Ohio, car ran absolutely amazing. Checked LV's throughout the event, trims were +/-1% with no flkc. This week, I'm seeing fuel trims increasing with hunting idle when coming to a stop. I attempted a boost leak test, but find I'm unable to build pressure without the oil cap on and tight. Should I be able to build crankcase pressure through the intake this easily, or is it TFANSB? Maybe a failed PCV? I'm really hoping this is just something stupid... Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Edited August 6, 2021 by Cincy05LGT Spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Bump. Any tuning gurus? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted August 8, 2021 Author Share Posted August 8, 2021 I was able to block off the inlet side of the TMIC, and pressurize the intake through the PCV nipple. Holds 10 psi with no leaks, even with the oil fill cap removed. So, this solved the crankcase pressurization issue. Pulled the PCV valve, still rattles and passes the blow test (can only blow thru in one direction) which is confusing... Regardless, I have a new oem PCV assembly on the way. Stay tuned for an update after reassembly this week. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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