What did you do to your Outback today? V3

I took this bad Larry up through Skykomish, WA this past weekend. We made it

She looks good. Not too low, not too high.

Agreed, is that LGT suspension?

She looks good. Not too low, not too high.

 

Thank you! Thank you, sir!

 

Agreed' date=' is that LGT suspension?[/quote']

 

Negatory. The wagon is sitting on BC Racing BR Series Coilovers (Outback Specific) + Swift Springs with a custom spring rate of 7K front, 8K rear... and some other goodies.

 

Check out the slow, but sure build thread I'm putting together

put it on stands and messed with the rear end to find out where my grinding is coming from. looks like 5 years is the change interval for rear bearings.

 

question: what do i need to fit aluminum trailing arms to a stock height OBXT? was thinking of swapping in a mess of things to the rear with some new bearings: rebuilt calipers, new rotors, pads, bearings, rebuilt (new bushing(s)) Al trailing arm, new shocks, new shock mount, new brake soft lines, etc.

 

i think i need:

- The longer bearing mount bolts

- The front mount bracket? can't use the OBXT one i have, yeah?

- anything else... ?

put it on stands and messed with the rear end to find out where my grinding is coming from. looks like 5 years is the change interval for rear bearings.

 

question: what do i need to fit aluminum trailing arms to a stock height OBXT? was thinking of swapping in a mess of things to the rear with some new bearings: rebuilt calipers, new rotors, pads, bearings, rebuilt (new bushing(s)) Al trailing arm, new shocks, new shock mount, new brake soft lines, etc.

 

i think i need:

- The longer wheel bearing mount bolts

- The front mount bracket? can't use the OBXT one i have, yeah?

- anything else... ?

put it on stands and messed with the rear end to find out where my grinding is coming from. looks like 5 years is the change interval for rear bearings.

 

question: what do i need to fit aluminum trailing arms to a stock height OBXT? was thinking of swapping in a mess of things to the rear with some new bearings: rebuilt calipers, new rotors, pads, bearings, rebuilt (new bushing(s)) Al trailing arm, new shocks, new shock mount, new brake soft lines, etc.

 

i think i need:

- The longer wheel bearing mount bolts

- The front mount bracket? can't use the OBXT one i have, yeah?

- anything else... ?

 

...I thought it bolted right up? The wheel bearings are the same so the bolts should be the same. I used the same part number from the lgt for my rear wheel bearings.

Over the weekend got under an NA outback from the subaru outback forums. Member just moved to slc and was having a small coolant leak. It looks to me to be coming from between the water pump and block. New short block from a shop in Cali so no real chance of getting it corrected there and no documentation of a new water pump although there is a new timing belt.

 

Any chance of swapping the water pump without removing the timing belt? I doubt it....

I think that you need "spec b" specific longer bolts to reach through the thicker aluminum trailing arm, vs. the steel arm on normal legacy/outbacks.

 

I also think the front pivot bracket might be specific to the aluminum arms for the same reason. But it might also push the rear wheel a little further backwards due to where the wheel sits in the wheel well on a stock height legacy vs. an outback...

 

 

also, the local dealership quoted me $800 to get my two rear wheel bearings replaced. holy f. been a while since i tried to get something done at a dealership. they're crazy. $450 to install them? and $350 for 2x bearings? timken it is i guess...

Yea that's way too much. They weren't THAT hard to install. I did both in maybe a total of 5 hours and I suck.

 

 

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Interested to know the answer about the aluminum arms. I've wanted a pair but just haven't had money to put up something like that yet.

 

 

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You definitely need the longer bolts for the bearings and I used the OEM Outback mounts. I went over the top and hand polished mine and then had them clear powder coated. They still clean up super easy and look great through the wheels. Whiteline lower front bushing (W63398) and Whiteline lower rear outer bushing (W63394) are the replacement bushings.

You definitely need the longer bolts for the bearings and I used the OEM Outback mounts. I went over the top and hand polished mine and then had them clear powder coated. They still clean up super easy and look great through the wheels. Whiteline lower front bushing (W63398) and Whiteline lower rear outer bushing (W63394) are the replacement bushings.

 

 

 

Hmm that's a pretty cool idea. I guess on my stock wheels you can't really see any of that so it's hard to know what will really show. The aftermarket wheels I want (sparco terra) don't show much more. Just enough that painted calipers will look good.

 

 

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Front-right wheel bearing replaced. All polyurethane bushings except for the diff, and steering rack are on. LGT UCA and bump stops are on. I adjusted my coilovers from 7-clicks from hard to 7-clicks from soft.

 

I am looking for a new (reman) genuine subaru rack now bc I need one.

Front-right wheel bearing replaced. All polyurethane bushings except for the diff, and steering rack are on. LGT UCA and bump stops are on. I adjusted my coilovers from 7-clicks from hard to 7-clicks from soft.

 

 

 

I am looking for a new (reman) genuine subaru rack now bc I need one.

 

 

 

Get an lgt rack. Quicker steering.

 

 

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Get an lgt rack. Quicker steering.

 

 

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I've considered it. It's been awhile since I read up on it. I need to comb back through the threads.

 

Isn't a '15 STi rack what a lot of the LGT guys do? It's probably a lot of work, huh? Decisions, decisions.

I've considered it. It's been awhile since I read up on it. I need to comb back through the threads.

 

 

 

Isn't a '15 STi rack what a lot of the LGT guys do? It's probably a lot of work, huh? Decisions, decisions.

 

 

 

If you don't have vdc, do the sti rack. It's almost certainly worth the not much more money.

 

If you have vdc and move to the sti rack, it'll go off on tight curves and get angry at you. I have vdc so I'll go for the lgt rack. Honestly I think it'll be enough, but if I could get the sti rack I wouldn't be upset. Especially for any type of track use.

 

 

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If you don't have vdc, do the sti rack. It's almost certainly worth the not much more money.

 

If you have vdc and move to the sti rack, it'll go off on tight curves and get angry at you. I have vdc so I'll go for the lgt rack. Honestly I think it'll be enough, but if I could get the sti rack I wouldn't be upset. Especially for any type of track use.

 

 

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I'm not so sure the '06s came with VDC. Well, maybe the 3.0Rs did, but I'm almost sure the '05 and '06 2.5i did not come with it. I have no idea about the XTs. Checking now...

Here's a resource I found searching through the forums. It's an unofficial website:

 

http://www.cars101.com/outback.html

 

My car definitely doesn't have VDC. Not sure how I feel about that.

 

Pros:

- one less sensor/thing I have to worry about

- AWD all the time

- no-false confidence (driver skills > VDC anyway)

 

Cons:

- one more thing to worry about (nah we're good)

 

 

Onto STi steering racks then, I'm expecting to pay an arm an a leg. Let's see.

Last night, after about two miles of driving, I noticed a an awful noise coming from the front-right corner of the car. It was a high-pitched squeal. My first thoughts were that I had a sticking caliper. However, I didn't smell any brakes, and the noise didn't sound like what I thought a sticking caliper sounded like. Turns out I had a pebble stuck between the rotor and dust shield. The smallest of things will cause so much trouble.

 

In addition to that, I cleaned the interior really good. Car still looks new inside. And dropped my parts stash off in storage. JDM rain visors are coming in tomorrow. Whoop!

Quarantine project #1 is done!

 

Ported and billet wheel VF52, new belts and tensioner, AVO inlet, Perrin throttle coupler, Grimmspeed EBCS, IP&T oil feed w/filter, Kinugawa braided coolant lines, a handful of new vacuum hoses, a bunch of new clamps and zip ties.

 

Not shown: new OEM intercooler, tgv to intake gaskets, STI oil cooler

I'm uncomfortable with the amount of vegetation among those parts.

Well this was a little pain in the ass. Bolt to the alternator was pretty tight to pull out the bottom. Took about 45mins though. Now to wrestle the serpentine belt back on fml

 

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I'm uncomfortable with the amount of vegetation among those parts.

 

I had to push the old parts off to the side of the driveway so my wife wouldn't trip on them. I promise that the actual work area was vegetation free.