dave g Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Was cleaning out the interior for spring, found a 35 amp fuse under the driver side mat. Checking the fuses, a 30 amp fuse is missing in lower left corner marked "P/W Main 1". Windows work and everything else as far as I know. Anybody know what this is for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Does that slot have fuse terminals in them? Maybe that is a spare fuse but weird to find an empty slot without losing its listed functions. Unless someone has been mucking arojnd in there. PO maybe if any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 that slot wasn't populated in my GT, either - it is wired and always hot, though. I ended up putting a small fuse in an expander on that slot so that I could power my boost gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave g Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 Does that slot have fuse terminals in them? Maybe that is a spare fuse but weird to find an empty slot without losing its listed functions. Unless someone has been mucking arojnd in there. PO maybe if any? I think there are terminals there, I'll check tomorrow. It is 11 floors down. Odd that Burning Monkey has same position empty, and that I had a loose 35 amp fuse floating around. " PO maybe if any?" Not sure what you mean there, Scubaboo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 " PO maybe if any?" Not sure what you mean there, Scubaboo. Sorry, that is "previous owner". Weird. I want to check my LGT too now but its at the condo slot. Got me curious too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 From what I figured out finding a place to wire my own boost gauge, that empty location has ignition power, and it stays hot while cranking. Must be that it does something in a different market? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave g Posted May 19, 2019 Author Share Posted May 19, 2019 From what I figured out finding a place to wire my own boost gauge, that empty location has ignition power, and it stays hot while cranking. Must be that it does something in a different market? Maybe its for that feature I've heard about in some other country that raises the windows by way of the FOB . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Maybe its for that feature I've heard about in some other country that raises the windows by way of the FOB .Only other country with our version is Canada. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave g Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 It was a guy in Israel on Reddit. Google searches take you strange places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 (edited) I notice that as well month's ago when I was trying to see why my window keep going out of sync. I stuck a fuse in there thought it will resolved my window sync issue and it did not. I'm still scratching my head to see why I have to keep syncing the windows (every week or so). I'm planing to get a new battery (still on the original battery @98k miles). The battery still fires up but in the colder month it struggle a little bit. Edited May 20, 2019 by amusa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 I wouldn't be too surprised if it turned out that the battery is the issue. Electronics do strange things when their supply voltage dips, could be that cranking the engine drags the voltage down low enough to reset whatever it is that holds that window calibration. Also, it sucks a lot less to change your battery in the summer than in the dead of winter, at night, when it's 20 degrees and windy. Ask me how I know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 I wouldn't be too surprised if it turned out that the battery is the issue. Electronics do strange things when their supply voltage dips, could be that cranking the engine drags the voltage down low enough to reset whatever it is that holds that window calibration. Also, it sucks a lot less to change your battery in the summer than in the dead of winter, at night, when it's 20 degrees and windy. Ask me how I know... I know I had to jump a vehicle battery in the middle of Chicago snow storm back when I was living in Chicago. I know the feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 ....I have to keep syncing the windows (every week or so). What do you mean by syncing the windows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 What do you mean by syncing the windows? Window does not go all the way down or up. You have to keep pushing the button on the window switch to open or closed the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Window does not go all the way down or up. You have to keep pushing the button on the window switch to open or closed the window. hmmmm, I always figured they used some kind of switch to know when the window was fully up or fully down to block either the up or down function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) hmmmm, I always figured they used some kind of switch to know when the window was fully up or fully down to block either the up or down function. There are relay's and circuit breaker that also part of the window diagram. I did not test it with a ohm meter to confirm, if any of the components are bad. I believe it comes down to the factory car battery and suspected there is a voltage surge or drop. When the motor has not been turned over in over 10 hours or so. That cause the window to reset itself. For example when you disconnect the battery and reconnect, some vehicle will ask for a code/pin number to unlock the factory radio/Navi. Edited May 22, 2019 by amusa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 There are relay's and circuit breaker that also part of the window diagram. I did not test it with a ohm meter to confirm, if any of the components are bad. I believe it comes down to the factory car battery and suspected there is a voltage surge or drop. When the motor has not been turned over in over 10 hours or so. That cause the window to reset itself. For example when you disconnect the battery and reconnect, some vehicle will ask for a code/pin number to unlock the factory radio/Navi. must be a 13+ thing. I've had my battery disconnected plenty of times and my NAV has never asked for a pin, just runs through the full boot up process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 must be a 13+ thing. I've had my battery disconnected plenty of times and my NAV has never asked for a pin, just runs through the full boot up process I know for sure Acura/Honda, Mitsubishi, etc. uses the pin code. Not sure if Subaru uses the code or not. Sometime some has a battery back-up like the one in my Mercedes if you disconnect the battery. The radio will never reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 I know for sure Acura/Honda, Mitsubishi, etc. uses the pin code. Not sure if Subaru uses the code or not.I've not come across any subaru models that did. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Huh, when I drove my car home the other night I noticed the auto up/down no longer works on my driver's side window. I had the battery out for 5 weeks or so. amusa, how do you sync the window again, if that is indeed what you were talking about...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Run it up and hold the switch up for a bit, and do the same thing for down. I think there's some sort of fancy current-sensing circuitry that has to calibrate so that it knows what "normal" load is compared to stall current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 I think we decided this was the function of the circuit breaker in the vehicle, or someone pointed us to that conclusion. A self resetting breaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 (edited) Huh, when I drove my car home the other night I noticed the auto up/down no longer works on my driver's side window. I had the battery out for 5 weeks or so. amusa, how do you sync the window again, if that is indeed what you were talking about...? Yes, this is what I was trying to explain. I listed the procedure to re-sync the window's see below. Run it up and hold the switch up for a bit, and do the same thing for down. I think there's some sort of fancy current-sensing circuitry that has to calibrate so that it knows what "normal" load is compared to stall current. Proper procedure from owner manual 2-35. Initialization of power window If the vehicle’s battery is disconnected due to situations such as battery or fuse replacement, the following functions are deactivated. . One-touch auto up/down function . Anti-entrapment function Initialize the power window in the following procedure to reactivate such functions. 1. Close the driver’s door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position. 3. Open the driver’s side window halfway by pushing down the power window switch. 4. Pull up the power window switch and close the window completely. Continue pulling up the switch for approximately 1 second after the window is closed completely. Edited May 23, 2019 by amusa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now