Sparkey Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 I’ll try to check but I assume it can’t pop out if that 14mm bolt is holding it in place right? I’m just tired of self diagnosing this issue. I might just take it to the shop and pay the man and forget it. I used to like to take turns at a good amount of speed given my suspension setup but the creaking noise scares me when I’m driving in any direction other than straight. Pop out entirely - not likely unless you're going real hard. My bolt was "snug" but not tight enough because I could take a pry bar and pop it in and out a good 1/8-1/4 of an inch. When doing a visual and bolt check it was over looked. Wasnt until my third visual it was actually sitting out of the socket enough to notice, then confirmed with the pry bar. Since tightening that and the endlink bolts I dont have any more unusual sounds. 05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 oh no. Link? Didn't spend time looking for the link,sorry but I found the same thing when I had the warning light checked, they told me it was the left rear wheel sensor. Yeah, the axle shield was hitting it. Thinking about it, the link may be in the DIY forum 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 (edited) Just wanted to toss this up here since this is one of the most visited threads on the site these days and never like to see anyone miss out because they didnt get notified of a special going on. We normally wait for holidays to run specials, We figured we would change it up this time 10% OFF August Etune special. Prices are live on the website. Thanks for the continued support, I love this community. Dave Edited August 1, 2019 by cryo [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Śkyler Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 38 pages since my last post on here, dayum. The first one I bought, ended up being virtually useless for anything other than storage... It's a box old box right now. So I'm probably going to keep the very few good parts and scrap it. Nobody's going to want a salvage title in that bad of a shape. So I bought a second one, fully equipped and runs with no hiccups! 2000CAD$ for this one. Same year, same options, same everything save for the cigarette smell and it runs. Unfortunately, the project to restore the first one is proving to be far more than I can afford and I can't keep 3 cars around on my budget so it has to go. Currently waiting on the scrap prices to go up, and that'll give me more time to salvage good pieces. I'm not too sure what to do with the next one as of right now, I'm looking for mods that can potentially save me some gas while I'm studying, maybe? If you have any suggestions other than getting another car... Cheers! The new one. The glorified box and the runner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SageAbkatsor Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Finished cleaning the engine bay. Never good enough but I had to call it. Ordered all of my valvetrain components today. Have a plan in place for my fuel system. Things are coming together (though I suppose that means my bank account is falling apart lol). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Last night I swapped the Mamba wastegate actuator spring from the “10PSI” to “14PSI” spring. And checked the figment of the Turbosmart twin port actuator that’ll eventually replace it. Spring change IWG75 TP Fit test I’m getting the sneaking suspicion the $110 wastegate open box actuator is going to cost more than the $170 new one once this gets done... it didn’t come with the side fitting and the rod it a bit long before the threaded portion starts. The actuator rod I had bent for the Mamba won’t fit ether as the Turbosmart is a higher percussion deal for sealing and the shaft diameter is slightly different. Will likely need to build a mounting spacer to get more rod length to preload this thing. Anyway, on the Mamba actuator, the “14psi” black spring is far from 14psi. It’s actually acting just like the old spring, but with the boost curve offset vertically by 1.5psi. As in at IWG boost it now acts like a 10psi spring then creeps up to ~14psi at redline. It did pull the curve up at 100%WGDC just enough that I can run a flat 17psi under EWG control. Not optimally by any stretch, but it’s getting there Turbo is stubbornly not wanting to flow more than 300g/sec and VE is going off a cliff above ~6000rpm. So the smaller EWG uppipe May be restricting things more than the EWG is bleeding off. Which is odd with such a small turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Finished cleaning the engine bay. Never good enough but I had to call it. Good looking results. How did you clean it? This is something I’ve been meaning to do in 8 years of ownership. There’s a reason I’ve never posted a pic of my engine bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SageAbkatsor Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Good looking results. How did you clean it? This is something I’ve been meaning to do in 8 years of ownership. There’s a reason I’ve never posted a pic of my engine bay Start with detonation and ringland failure. That will motivate you to get the engine out of the way lol. Brake clean was very helpful for all of the nasty grease and caked on oil on the crossmember and inside the transmission bell housing. Only used two cans, but I would recommend having a lot more. It’s easy to go through and it makes life waaay easier. Paper towels to kind of wipe things down after that. Used a wire brush and scotch bright pad to scuff all of the oxidation off of things. Nylon brushes I used for dusting in all of the nooks and crannies where the wire brush would scratch things or be too aggressive. Some soapy water in a spray bottle to clean up some of the plastic items. Then just lots of time and effort. There are definitely places where I learned things that would have made things easier and more time efficient (broad strokes everywhere, then get to the fine details. Work from the top down.) Also there are probably more tools and supplies that would help. I am sure there are some detailing pros that would be a lot more efficient with it and even end with a better result. But, I am satisfied with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Another thought about removing all that protective grease on the paint in the engine bay. Now its easier for rust to start. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Ordered the Samco BPV hose from Roger Clark Motorsports yesterday. Less than 20 hours later it will be at my front door. I've read about their customer service/shipping but holy hell that is impressive. Now I can swap it in this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Good looking results. How did you clean it? This is something I’ve been meaning to do in 8 years of ownership. There’s a reason I’ve never posted a pic of my engine bay From harbor frieght: steam cleaner large tarp several nylon brush sets (the ones that look like big toothbrushes) face shield rainsuit or tyvek suit sonic cleaner (cleans brushes, small parts, nuts/bolts, etc) from grocery store: gallons of distilled water Dawn soap for sonic cleaner Process: pull motor put car on jackstands spread tarp under engine bay (you don't have to, but liquified grease is really hard to get out of concrete) start at bottom with steam cleaner (heat rises) and brush. Work your way up the engine bay to the top While the car is on the jackstands, do the entire undercarriage There's a thread on here about using PAR15 to coat the undercarriage parts Notes: 1. use a nylon scraper to remove the big chunks of goo first 2. the more items you remove from the engine bay the easier it is to clean 3. patience is a must with steam let it do the work and everything comes off easily. Rush it and damage results. 4. The tarp & rainsuit are throwaway after you are done. 5. You need to dump the water occasionally from the tarp. I used a homedepot bucket and let it sit outside to evaporate the water. The bucket is throwaway when done. Rant: if you're lucky, at some point, the CV boot failed and no one noticed. Cue protective gear, as that grease gets everywhere when liquefied. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Here's a picture of the red led ashtray light I installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadBod Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Found a decent low mileage 5EAT locally. Should be going in next week. Hoping to finally start driving Christine by next weekend. *crosses fingers and toes* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Will you be swapping it yourself or using a shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted August 2, 2019 Author Share Posted August 2, 2019 @utc_pyro Where did you get that mounting bracket for your wastegate actuators? Removed from an oem actuator? I wish i had a spare oem actuator to do that with... * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 @utc_pyro Where did you get that mounting bracket for your wastegate actuators? Removed from an oem actuator? I wish i had a spare oem actuator to do that with... It’s the OEM BNR actuator bracket with the actuator cut off. Later non-vf40 based BNR turbos are slightly different than everything else so I wasn’t able to find another bracket that fit. The standard Subaru ones were quite different, as were the Mamba/Kinguana style ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SageAbkatsor Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Another thought about removing all that protective grease on the paint in the engine bay. Now its easier for rust to start. I know, and that is definitely a concern here in MN. But I bought some fluid film to put down and the car will not really be driven in the winter. Need to fix a couple rust spots still, but engine work is the focus at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadBod Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Will you be swapping it yourself or using a shop? Going to have a shop do it. Good friend owns a body shop and the mechanic they use is going to put it in. They’re a transmission shop, so I’m confident that it will be done right. Plus the tech said he’d replace every seal on it that he can replace without breaking down the case. (And shockingly, they’re going to warranty it. Even with me supplying the part.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Going to have a shop do it. Good friend owns a body shop and the mechanic they use is going to put it in. They’re a transmission shop, so I’m confident that it will be done right. Plus the tech said he’d replace every seal on it that he can replace without breaking down the case. (And shockingly, they’re going to warranty it. Even with me supplying the part.) 5MT swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadBod Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 5MT swap? I wish. I priced it out and it was almost double what it’s going to cost me to just put another 5EAT back in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Best thing I found for cleaning battery terminals and battery cable connectors is cleaner that's used for PVC plumber tubes, the purple colored one. This is what I use for cleaning battery terminals and posts. (Actually I've worn out a few) Is there a properly conductive grease than that can be used on connectors? I thought the idea is to keep them clean and dry. Been using this on all my battery terminals for over 45 years. Never had any problems with corrosion or cranking/starting troubles. Cover all contact points, and all exposed terminal and post metal to keep it from oxidizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruTrissi Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 My 2005 legacy ran out of gas today[emoji108] well i got the last hose to turbo it Sent from my subie cave’s pc 1997 impreza GT: sold 2002 impreza WRX: sold 2005 forester sti: on jackstands 2004 legacy base: turbokit in da trunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Rebuilding brake calipers - compressed air not doing the trick to push out the pistons. Can't get a good seal. Any tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Another thought about removing all that protective grease on the paint in the engine bay. Now its easier for rust to start.Spoken like a true New Englander! In spirit of the thread... I topped off my oil. Exactly 1 quart in 1500 miles. I'm now finally noticing my driving habits reflecting my oil usage. On another note, while checking said mileage I noticed I also needed an oil change.. that'll be next week. Also, I had the headlights cleaned and looking close to new-ish again! Best 40 bux I ever spent! Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Rebuilding brake calipers - compressed air not doing the trick to push out the pistons. Can't get a good seal. Any tips? I use one of these, with the rubber tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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