Direct port water methanol/meth/nitropropanol injection

Has anyone set up a custom water meth system?

I want to see if I can make 300 whp out of an ej255 with a stock TMIC.

I'm thinking I could drill and tap the outer TGV holes once gutted. (press brass rod into innner holes). HP calculators show about 100ml nozzles as a starting point.

I was thinking 15 psi activation with a level sender hooked to a relay controlling the boost controller, such that if water meth level falls too low the relay kicks off the BCS forcing max wastegate boost pressure. Fuel maps should run pig rich and fall in their face instead of leaning out popping.

I want to use an 04 FXT fuel pump/basket assembly and OEM fuel pressure regulator in a cheap 5 gal fuel cell. I would basically have two fuel systems.

I would then need a solenoid, 4 way splitter, 4 nozzle holders, 4 nozzles, and cheap tubing.

I think I'm looking around $300 for cost which is more than some kits, but I'll have a much bigger solenoid and 5 gal tank instead of the 1 gal. With a direct port setup and proper nozzles I'm thinking I can squeeze plenty out of the stock TMIC and end up paying way less than a front mount kit.

Has anyone done this? Thoughts? Is anyone spraying meth on a tmic?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ca-bnib-cooling-mist-stage-1-methanol-injection-kit-282421.html

Maybe ask Notorious

The TGV rod holes aren't great for this as it's hard to do maintenance on your jets. Particularly the one right next to the turbo. If oyu think you can make it work I want to see it though.

The FXT fuel pump and pressure regular isnt a great idea unless you run 100% meth, water will kill them. 100% meth isnt great for charge air cooling, it's more a think DI cars do when they max out their fueling. A standard sureflow pump isnt expensive and has a built in pressure regulator. Industrial sprayer tanks are also not expensive.

Direct port has been done on WRX's and STI's, and what they did on the WRC cars. It works best if you do it in combination with at least one main post IC jet. That will give you the best pre-cooling and the best in cylinder cooling. The best spot for the jets would be in the intake manifold itself, ether drill and tap as is or use plastic weld rods to build up areas and install bungs.

There's also BrandonspecB who has done it to his current H6 build I believe, and probably other EJ255/257 engines.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-year-new-build-v-3-0-ri-277229.html

You must have lots of time on your hands.

Is this going to be a DD ?

I'm guessing the stock TMIC will leak before you get there. I guess you could do the "bullet proofing" of it.

It's much easier to just go Cobb AP V3 stage 2, w/vf52, required items, Grimmspeed tmic and have a reliable car. Oh use something other than a Mustang Dyno for the numbers. You'll get 300whp easy.

My wagon should put down those numbers on a dyno jet dyno.

Plus you never have to worry about running out of water, meth, etc.

Yeah I realized fuel pumps were low pressure high volume. Fuel compatibility aside 40psi of water meth isn't going to touch a 200 psi pump. I like the idea of using a combination of the post intercooler nozzle with direct port. I want direct port for the ability to grow into a parallel fuel system to fool around with different fuels, and or band aids having small injectors.

My governor shut my state down, so yes I have lots of free time as a furloughed auto technician. I also keep a project car or three around at any given time.

Definitely not a daily driver lol

I'll do some more research and figure out how much these plastic Forester tmics hold and stay around there until I can get an 08+ sti tmic.

I'll be using a 5 gallon fuel cell, so I don't have to worry about filling often. Should easily get through a full day of racing.

I have a ported 18gtx turbo with full catless exhaust uel manifold.

I expect to be able to hit high 300's with this turbo running e85 and spraying 30/70 water methanol if the

tmic and 5mt don't explode.

I'll also be tuning it myself with a $30 generic interface adapter.

I'm going to flash an sti rom over the fxt ecu and work from there. It would be nice to have flex fuel and speed density as well.

I'll start with a simple pressure activation switch, say over 5-10 psi it sprays full bore

Keeping it 50/50 until the system is proven leak free on the road for a period of time. I don't mess with fire.

Failsafe will also be a simple relay that will go inline with the EBCS power feed. I'll then use a pressure switch to activate the relay when the water methanol line pressure reaches a threshold. This will cover me for loss of fuel or pump or mechanical line failure.

When the line pressure drops too low the relay will cut power to the ebcs dropping boost to wastegate only. This should make the fuel maps pig rich. The combination will result in major loss of power.

I have AAA for towing in case of mechanical failure, but it would be preferable to have some sort of map switching capability even if it's a cheap laptop hidden in the car in case it just runs out of water meth and is still mechanically sound.

You're overcomplicating your failsafes. We have a built in failsafe function in the ECU: Ground the green plug (same you use for flashing). It back out all of the dynamic advance, cuts boost to zero, and reverts to the high knock fueling map.

Your fuel pump will sieze within a week. It's NOT compatable with water at ALL. There are hundreds of sub $50 options on ebay if you're trying to go cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/bayite-12V-Diaphragm-Water-Pump-1-5-GPM-5-6-L-Min-100-PSI-12-Volt-DC-Fresh-Wa/223673870034?hash=item34140066d2:g:KMIAAOSwqPddhTK4

You're overcomplicating your failsafes. We have a built in failsafe function in the ECU: Ground the green plug (same you use for flashing). It back out all of the dynamic advance, cuts boost to zero, and reverts to the high knock fueling map.

 

Your fuel pump will sieze within a week. It's NOT compatable with water at ALL. There are hundreds of sub $50 options on ebay if you're trying to go cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/bayite-12V-Diaphragm-Water-Pump-1-5-GPM-5-6-L-Min-100-PSI-12-Volt-DC-Fresh-Wa/223673870034?hash=item34140066d2:g:KMIAAOSwqPddhTK4

Thank you for that info! I'll use that failsafe method instead. The pump information is great too. I will definitely take that into consideration. The AEM pumps aren't that expensive to be honest. I think having a robust system will make tuning it easier. I'll have enough of a learning curve with that.