MasAyinde Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 So I picked up a short block for a really good price, but one of the PS pump mounting bolt holes has a chunk broken off. What would be my best bet here in terms of fixing this? EDIT: actually power steering pump http://i.imgur.com/myFyYbg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 16, 2015 Moderators Share Posted November 16, 2015 get a stud welded on? secure with a nut instead of a bolt? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 here's what it should look like. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4767.jpg If you have the piece a machine shop might know a place that can weld it back on. I'm sure that will be cheap. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 get a stud welded on? secure with a nut instead of a bolt? Aluminium stud...? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 I do have a shit load of aluminum brazing rods but I do not have that piece that broke off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mondtster Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Take it to a welding shop with a big tig welder. Have them build the area up then drill and tap it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I have an otherwise perfect 60k mile 08 LGT motor sitting on the stand in the garage with 2 of those accessory mounting holes broken off. Front end crash tends to shear those things off. I have yet to find someone willing to weld it up. . .but I haven't looked that hard. That said it is fortuitous that the load on that fastener is normally downward (belt load) so the repair doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to keep the bolt from rattling out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 17, 2015 Moderators Share Posted November 17, 2015 Aluminium stud...? LOL, I'm not a welder. Steel on aluminum doesn't work I guess...? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 LOL, I'm not a welder. Steel on aluminum doesn't work I guess...? It doesn't, but that might be a good thing. Means you can put a steel bolt in there for shape/threads and build up aluminum around it. Going to clean up the break, use some Flux, heat the area and melt aluminum over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 It doesn't, but that might be a good thing. Means you can put a steel bolt in there for shape/threads and build up aluminum around it. Going to clean up the break, use some Flux, heat the area and melt aluminum over it. That sounds like a great idea...I wonder how it would work. I'm not sure you could build up enough material around the (heat sink) of the bolt. It is possible to weld dissimilar metals. I used to do it on this item I used to build here at work. We welded Inconel tubing to Titanium tubing. We used what was called a transition tube. This was back in the early to mid 1980's. That 1" long by 1/4" ID tube was $1200. It was Inconel on one end and Ti on the other. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Yeah I pretty much have nothing to lose. Worst case scenario I ruin that part of the block and have to fabricate a bracket to use that mounting point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Take it to a welding shop with a big tig welder. Have them build the area up then drill and tap it again. Since you do not have the piece that broke off I vote for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mondtster Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 That sounds like a great idea...I wonder how it would work. I'm not sure you could build up enough material around the (heat sink) of the bolt. The aluminum block will be far more of a heat sink than the bolt will ever be. Hence the reason I said he needed to find someone with a big tig welder. Preheat might be necessary to ease the initial heat demands too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I don't know of any shops that would recommend welding on cast material but it is possible. Your best bet is having the entire area filled and built up and then drilled and tapped. To the comment about force if theres a downward force near the head of the bolt from the belt theres an opposite force at the base of the bolt pushing up into the new material section. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I wonder if that money might be better spent on a new block... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mondtster Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 I don't know of any shops that would recommend welding on cast material but it is possible. It depends on the alloy. Some cast aluminum is termed as "unweldable" but even some of that stuff can be welded. A friend of mine cut and reshaped a Mitsubishi transmission bellhousing to fit a different engine that was supposedly unweldable. Worked great for as long as that transmission was in the car. It still is sitting in his shop, ready to be installed in something else if he felt like it. Castings get welded all the time, whether a specific shop recommends it or not. Just as one example that everyone here should be familiar with, look at all the aluminum heads that have been repaired over the years... I wonder if that money might be better spent on a new block... That might be what ends up happening, but I wouldn't jump the gun yet. I can't imagine that a shop would charge too much to try welding that. The cost would be insignificant compared to a new block and the other labor and materials associated with swapping all the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soarer Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Same thing happened to a motor I bought. I took it to a local welding shop and had them weld on some new material. Then I put the pump bracket in place, marked the center of the hole, drilled it and tapped it with a blind tap. Worked great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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